12x18 Lenco Install on a 2004 23 DVCC

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Wicho

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Apr 1, 2007
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Location
Key Biscayne, FL
Ok folks...

Got the blades in the mail today so I thought perhaps now is the time to start a thread on the install.

I'm following Robert Cibrans experience with the same install and setup of 12x18's using the same actuator. I bought it from Jim at BOE - I checked another place (local lenco dis) and Jim was cheaper.

The blade looks very different from my existing one - no lip up! I should have them installed this weekend. Will have more pictures then!

Cheers,
Wicho.
 

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William:

I don't think those will work. If you don't want to move the actuator, then you will need the blades where the actuator bolts to the rear edge (turned up lip), not near the middle of the blade as those do. I believe Lenco has the same (as 12x12s) turned up lip blades in 12x18 where the actutaor bolts to the back lip just as you have now.

Check it out.

Regards,

jim
 
Thats what I was afraid of!

I emailed Robert to find out what the deal is.... Thanks for letting me know. I will call Jim in the morning.

Cheers!
wp.
 
I didn't think about that Rangerdog---great idea-rivets. That will definitely work if you don't want to exchange them for the ones with the lip.

jim
 
Ok... Long story short. During the ordering process, the "E" at the end of the model name got lost. The ones above are the standard mounts and the edge mounts arrived today!!

For everyones own info - the item number associated with these blades are : Q0161-001. That way you don't have to get into the shipping game like me!

Anybody want to come to Key Biscayne this saturday morning for the dramatic install?

See picture below:
 

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I think those with the turned up lip are probably stiffer than the others. You know I'd be there if I lived closer.

Have fun. You'll love em.

jim 8)
 
Hello.. ALL!

Ok.. finally finished the project *yes .. weeks later*.

I followed Robert Cibrans Instructions which are here:
take the 12x12 out very carefully (remove the 3 bolts on the actuator,this will let the tab move flat towards transom,then remove the seven screws on the 12x12 blades,you will need to pry the backing plate from the tarnsom very carefully as this is glued with 5200 or regular silicon,once you have removed the backing plate,use a blade to remove all the hard silicon (no need to use sand paper),you will note two holes that are centered with the actuator (do not plug the top hole),for plugging the old holes,buy Marinetex and mix the small bottle with all the hardner that it comes with,buy at West marine 2 syringes,cut them desired hole diameter,put the marinetex inside the syringe and squeeze into the holes you want to plug all the way,after put blue painters tape on top of holes so that marinetex wont push itself out,wait a few hours until its hard.

then put another strip of painters tape,say 4 inches wide about 20 inches long all the length of the transom where you are going to mount the 12x18,take the new blades 12x18 and mount on the center top (old hole) very tight,then mount again the actuator with the 3 bolts and nut,tightend all the way,now you are looking at exactly how the new blades 12x18 will mount,take a pencil and mark the new holes to be drilled without taking the blades off,you will be marking on the blue tape.

once all has been marked,remove the actuator very carefully as not to move the backing plate from the marks you made,tightend screw if need be,with the backing plate in position,drill new holes using the small holes on backing plate as guide.once you have drilled all the new 10 holes (center hole is old hole),remove the blue tape,now you are ready to mount new 12x18 blades,on the new holes,squeeze some 5200 inside of them,not too much,on the backing plate put a nice bead of 3m silicon and you are ready to screw them on.its simple.you will need a 3/16 drill bit and the screws are #14-1 1/4,make sure to mark your drill bit as not to drill more than the 1 1/4 needed.

My biggest learning lesson was the marinetex - It hardened so quickly!. I had to buy it twice. It was definitely messy. I agree with Roberts suggestion to use tape to keep it inside but I would also use tape around the hole so that if it does spill out while your injecting it.. around the area you can just pull off the tape then apply the tape on top of the hole to apply pressure on the marinetex. I would also look for the syringes way ahead of time so that there is no question you'll be able to inject easily. (I had difficulty b/c it hardened so quickly. I decided to finish the installation the same day (day 2) - so two of the newly filled holes had not dried 100% when I went ahead and finished mounting the tab regardless.

It was the first time I used these products so most of you won't have that problem.

The other problem I had was that I needed to scrape off bottom paint to put the larger 12x16s in. The bottom paint is so thick, I didn't want the mounting area of the tabs to sit on an uneven surface. So I decided to scrape and sand off as much as I could. I essentially got most of it off. But I was getting to that gelcoat and that made me nervous!

I had also never used 5200 or 4200 - what a mess!. I put way to much on the back of tab (4200) and I used way... to much on the bolts (5200). As you'll see in the pictures!

I used the drilling instructions on the Lenco website along with the correct bit. I marked the drill bit with a piece of tape to make sure I didn't go any deeper than necessary. I used a basic ryobi portable drill to do everything. I bought all new hardware for the install..... I think that was it...

This post by cbigma http://classicparker.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1747 is essentially the same except hes working on the levelers and I upgraded my lencos.. wish I would have seen his post!. He had the same issue with the bottom paint and used many of the same techniques - good to see were all headed in a similar direction here.

I've only used the boat once since install and what a difference. The bow on this boat digs in real hard. I virtually have no end to tabs - they just keep going. Will report more info as I get more comfortable!

This project was definitely feasible for anyone inclined to try. So give it a shot if your wondering!

Thanks all for your input!


Here is a chronology of the job with photos:
 

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More Photos..
 

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Thanks folks for the kind remarks. I wrote this up precisely to encourage others to do it. I had no idea what I was doing and it wasn't hard at all!

The blades were 230 plus s/h.
hardware marinetex and 42/5200.. another 40 bucks...

Wind has been really ruff here in MIA.... so not much opportunity to go out.

Straight forward upgrade!
cheers....
 
grouperjim":3ju4k8y0 said:
Ahhh---3M 5200 adhesive remover---don't leave home without it :wink:

Great job.

jim

Yes !

My wife read my post and asked me why i didn't post the problem I had with the 5200 all over my hands for three days!... I paused for a second, looked at her and said... what problem (uh - huh) ...

And I had no choice to buy it but not for the boat.. my hands!
 
Wicho,

So you finally made it,looks good the install,told you the differance would be great,no need to go bigger,those will get the bow down completely so that bow cuts the waves.

How about this wind ?? terrible !!!

Good Luck

Robert Cibran
 
Looks good. :) Now make sure you drill a hole in each so you can install some zincs. That will ensure you don't have to do this again.
 
Capt. John Deering":fn9bj878 said:
fyi, i have bennett 12X24 on my 23 se. talked to tabman at bennett. i think you should go bigger.

John: Do you have a (new-ish) model 23 SE, with the recessed tab pockets? If so, I presume you installed the new Bennets across the span of the pockets. Any ill-effects? I am considering a tab (size) updgrade, but am concerned about the recessed pockets on my hull.

Thanks
 
I just happen to have a photo of Capt Johns tabs taken during the 2007 Annapolis Rendezvous.

Image-805C4F0048F311DC.jpg
 
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