Cabin floor drain hole

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After placing the stainless drain catcher in place, the constant footprints and stuff landing on the floor got my attention. I bought a commercial foot mat like they have when you walk into a building with wet snow covered boots or cow pastures. It has a waterproof back, is washable, and retains water (or gear lube or??) without it getting on the fibergass or in my sight.

Heavy-duty polyproplene acrylic fiber carpet with ruggged vinyl backing to trap moisture and dirt. Good for gargages, workshops, and Parker floors. Vacuum or hose wash.

Covers a million sins and helps a bit with inside quiet or floor beer can knicks. Good for bare feet.

Too lazy to cut out the seat base but is settling down on the slit. Also did not cut a hole for the drain hole as I let the mat catch the crud instead of the bilge.

Mine is light brown 4 ft. X 6 ft. before cutting off a corner and edge from:

www.sportys.com 10302-br-light brown
 

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Sometimes I get a couple of gallons of sea water in the bilge via the anchor locker from taking waves over the bow. When there is a steep, short chop on the bay or coast the water really pours across the bow when I'm trolling directly into the waves. It's exciting but I don't feel threatened. This is usually the only time she takes on water, unless I forget and leave the seacock open after winterizing the raw water wash! :shock:
 
Ranger Tim":15xae3is said:
Sometimes I get a couple of gallons of sea water in the bilge via the anchor locker from taking waves over the bow. When there is a steep, short chop on the bay or coast the water really pours across the bow when I'm trolling directly into the waves. It's exciting but I don't feel threatened. This is usually the only time she takes on water, unless I forget and leave the seacock open after winterizing the raw water wash! :shock:

??? Why would water come in with the seacock open? The raw water pump is above the level of the deck, and the hose outlet is up near the gunwhales. If you are getting water into the bilge when the seacock is open, then you have a cracked hose or broken hose clamp BELOW WATER LINE!!!! Of course you want to keep the seacock closed when not in use, but if you accidently leave it open, the plumbing should be such that NO water comes in.
 
Since the anchor locker cannot be drained out directly at the bow (I'm assuming the drain hole is close to the water line level?) and yet we need some way to drain out wet anchor lines..... then we need an anchor locker drain and we have one...and unfortunately it flows into the bilge.

My question is how to keep water out of the anchor locker when the anchor is not in use? Rain and spray should not enter an anchor locker in my biased opinion and experience with other boats. Keeping the stuff in the anchor locker wet just does not thrill me.

Seems to me the only place for water to enter my anchor locker is where a space has been left for the anchor line at the forward end of the hatch. The rest of the hatch looks like it will drain water from rain or spray aft onto the deck.

Maybe a piece of non-absorbing foam in the line hole, maybe a formed gasket to insert when not anchored, maybe I'll plug the line hole permanently since anchor time is short vs. washing the boat, rain, spray, etc., maybe maybe?

I like as dry a bilge as I can have. Odors, mildew, corrosion, etc. all love a damp bilge.
 
When I forget to reassemble the raw water wash after winterizing it AND leave the seacock open, there is enough force when on plane to drive water through the hose all the way up to the pump. It then runs out and into the drain, ending up in the bilge. After running a while there is a significant accumulation, enough to trigger the pump. I have no "cracked hose" or other such anomaly, merely an absent mind. Of course I usually notice the bilge light coming on and then remember why. No big deal.

There has always been a small amount of rain water or sea water that enters the anchor locker via the hole in the hatch or the hole at the windlass. This is more than compensated for by the bilge pump or by raising the bow when on the trailer (plug out). These things are also no big deal. If these things are a deal breaker for others, I am sure there are ways to address them.

Now breaking a few stringers and opening up a six foot long, three inch wide crack in the hull below the water line when seventy miles offshore in a twenty-three foot Mako is something to get excited about... especially with no radio... and a single outboard... the things we do when we are young, and live to tell about! :shock:
 
Greatcir... Thanks for the tip on the stainless screens for the floor drains. Got mine in the mail yesterday.

Image-3348EF7AB18B11DB.jpg
 
Porkchunker":2pn5165b said:
Ahhhh...now I understand.

BTW, the cabin drain in my 2510 is vertical on the back wall, not horizontal on the floor. I would probably have to glue it in place with 4200 or 4000.

I was thinking some marine silicone.
Just enought to keep it in, and just enough to make to removable. :wink:
 
Love the mesh cover idea, I've been thinking of installing a piece of tubing into the hole that will direct the cabin drain flow into a bucket in the bilge. When I hose out it's only a couple gallons at most, so if I have to put the bucket down there, so be it. It'll help Keep crap out of the bilge and minimize water. Has anyone done something like this?
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J5 ... UTF8&psc=1

If I do a heavy wash out of the cabin I use the above hand pump to get the water out of the forward bilge. It doesn't get all of the water out; but, enough that I just use a towel to clean what's left. I leave it onboard tucked behind the Stbd side facing seat incase the two bilge pumps ever fail together.
 
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