Cleaning Fuel Vent Screen?

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Staff member
Feb 17, 2006
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Newburyport, MA
On the old Parker BBS there were a few discussions on how the screen on the fuel vent can get corroded and block the flow of air to the vent while re-fueling. The restricted air flow would cause automatic nozzles to keep shutting off, or manual nozzles to cause spills when the gas 'burped' back out of the filler.

Has anyone here cleaned the screen? How do you gain access to it? Is there a cover on the outside of the hull that can be pried off or something, or do you need to remove the entire thru hull to get at the vent?

Any recommended models to use as replacements?

-- Tom
TomS":3jkt4di7 said:
Has anyone here cleaned the screen? How do you gain access to it? Is there a cover on the outside of the hull that can be pried off or something, or do you need to remove the entire thru hull to get at the vent? Any recommended models to use as replacements?

My '92 vintage uses this model by Attwood Marine.

You'd need to remove it to service/check it. Many times, there could also be something in the vent hose itself. On my bro's Grady, we undid the vent line hose from both connection sides and snaked weed-trimmer mono through it and then cleaned the line out, by pulling small rags back through it with the heavy mono.


I kind of like this one, the model 1680 also by Attwood, as it not only has a superior baffle system to prevent water intrusion from seas, but it has a fuel surge protector that helps prevents backflow from the vent and fuel spills. Costs about $22.


Surge Protection
Inertia of surging fuel drives the surge ball up against the upper seat, closing the large vent opening. Passage is limited to the smaller openings, which reduce fuel flow and minimize spillage. When the tank becomes full it causes automatic fuel nozzles to shut off.

Without fuel inertia, the surge ball remains at rest, allowing unrestricted venting through all openings.

Water Intrusion Protection
Baffles and traps help prevent water from entering vent line and fuel tank during normal sea conditions and washdowns.

I'll have to get out under the tarp and see what model I have..

For clarification, when surging or 'burping' as I call it, the fuel kicks back up through the filler hole like a mini-geyser, not out the vent. Actually, it might come out the vent, but its small in volume compared with the kick back from the filler :)

-- Tom
I believe the vent/screen assembly on my 1996 model 2520 is made by Perco.
On mine, the black 'knob' portion outside the hull is threaded, and can be easilly unscrewed so you can clean the screen. I do it every spring.

If you're having trouble with fuel spills and blow-back while fueling, check out the fuel/air separators made by Racor - the LG50 and LG100. ... r_sep.html

I read a test on the two items last year and the LG100 got better marks that the smaller LG50.

I change my Perkos about every two years. Tough to get them real clean unless you stay with it as they corrode if you are in salt water. They don't cost much and filling problems tell you when you are getting close, you can't fill at a fast rate anymore.

Thanks guys.. I got a chance to go out and check the boat. It looks like I have the threaded typle like Kevin. I wasn't able to get a good look inside because of the tarp, but I did see some corrossion that was starting to accumulate. I'll give it a better look in the spring and figure out if I need to replace. Now that I've looked at it again, it is very easy to get to, so replacement should be a snap.

-- Tom

i am with dana...they are cheap, simple to disassemble, and very
important.......just replace it in toto......i use perko.....i will raise a
larger, more ominous issue: the vent hose......i replace ALL HOSES
every ten years, including the fuel hoses, the vent hose, the fill hose,
and all coolant hoses on the engine block.

first, the hoses mfrd now are much improved over 15 years ago, when
alcohol was just appearing in gasoline......many of the hoses, diaphragms,
gaskets, etc of an earlier era are DISSOLVED, all or in part, by the alcohols.......the alcohol "family", including ethanol, methanol, glycol
are extremely aggressive and effective SOLVENTS


but i digress......putting TODAY`S HOSE in makes strong logic......if you
use SHIELDS or other topnotch hoses, you have some serious assurance
into the future years........they are only going to add MORE ALCOHOL as
time goes on........when i changed out my fuel line, the twisting and pulling
caused black globs to appear immediately after in my racor bowl!...the
fill hose was clearly ratty in appearance, although the vent hose looked
just fine........thus, older hose is quite possibly DAMAGED by alcohols,
both because of inadequate "chemistry" at mfr, but also the continual
erosive action over years.......the job is diy with simple tools, but use
only topgrade hoses and only AWAB clamps!......dan