Flushing the Yamaha outboard

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Freespool

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OK, I am getting conflicting information regarding flushing my 2006 Yamaha 150's. It adequate to simply connect the garden hose to the flush fitting, or do you use the ear muffs as well.

If you simply use the flush connector, do you use any type of salt away or other proprietary product to reduce salt build up??
 
Freespool":130bed4l said:
OK, I am getting conflicting information regarding flushing my 2006 Yamaha 150's. It adequate to simply connect the garden hose to the flush fitting, or do you use the ear muffs as well.

If you simply use the flush connector, do you use any type of salt away or other proprietary product to reduce salt build up??


Yes, the flush fitting is adequate, you do not need muffs too.

As for Salt-Away... it depends on where you are, how many hours you run, and how anal you are. :)

I do a Salt-Away treatment about 3 times a season, if that helps.
 
Put your 'Location' in the location field of your profile.
It will help us help you if we know where you are.
Salty or sweet, it makes a BIG difference.
 
Be sure to never run the motor while the hose is hooked up to the flushing port.
 
A Yammy mechanic said that he hooked up hot water in his garage and back flushes with that. It opens thermostats and gets entire cooling passages.
 
Why can't u run your motor when you connect a hose to the flushing port?? (Works better then the muffs for me at least) I run it off the port while its on blocks to winterize and before launching.. I never had a problem with over heating or pre muture wearing of the impeller.. I had it running as long as 10-20 minutes (at idle) with no damage to the impeller and a strong stream of water out the pee hole. Mine is a 225 ox66..
 
tomysel":3i9j3xdm said:
Why can't u run your motor when you connect a hose to the flushing port?? (Works better then the muffs for me at least) I run it off the port while its on blocks to winterize and before launching.. I never had a problem with over heating or pre muture wearing of the impeller.. I had it running as long as 10-20 minutes (at idle) with no damage to the impeller and a strong stream of water out the pee hole. Mine is a 225 ox66..

My local outboard shop told me never to run my outboard while hooked up to the flushing port because it would destroy the impeller and possibly damage other parts and it would be an expensive repair, but apparently that's not the case?
 
I guess I got lucky... Tried muffs but couldn't get the water to come out the pee hole.. So I started using the flushing port.. I guess I should use a 50gal barrel instead. But I have been doing this for the last 3-4 seasons and every spring when I checked the impeller it was fine. I guess I shouldn't push my luck.. Got 1200 hrs on the motor and not a hiccup...(knock on wood)
 
no you dont want to run it while using flushing port. There's no water in the lower unit so impeller is running dry.
 
Putting the lower unit in a barrel seems like the best method if you can do it.

Muffs don't always flow enough water, especially if they only have a single hose inlet.
Dual hose muffs with a pair of garden hoses feeding it are best, especially for the big block motors if you want to run the motor on the hose.

The flush port is just that, a flush port.
Since I wet slip my boat, I use that flush port at least once a week, generally after I clean the boat.
I just hook up the hose and let it run while I'm puttering around. :)
 
if stored in a slip, do you flush with engine up or down? The manual says up ???
 
I do both.. Flush 10 min down and 10 min up... While I'm cleaning and organizing the deck...
 
POGE":2agyuw2l said:
if stored in a slip, do you flush with engine up or down? The manual says up ???

I flush in the up position.
 

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This won't help anyone with boats in the water but for you guys that trailer you're boat, I do not trust muffs and my Yamaha is a 91 225 and does not have a flush attachment. And as a 50 gal drum is a pain in the @$$ and heats up too quickly, I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 100 gal Rubbermade stock tank (cattle water tank) $70.00. Works like a champ. Is structuraly bullet proof and has a 2" drain plug. And it is oval so you raise the motor, set the tank under it (may need a couple of 2' 4x4's to gain the height), fill the tank and lower the motor in without any interference. I run mine for 15 min and the water doesn't even get warm. The tank is deep enough to cover the exhaust ports also. So the neighbors are happy.

C.A.
 
Capt Ahab":24e43ngl said:
This won't help anyone with boats in the water but for you guys that trailer you're boat, I do not trust muffs and my Yamaha is a 91 225 and does not have a flush attachment. And as a 50 gal drum is a pain in the @$$ and heats up too quickly, I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 100 gal Rubbermade stock tank (cattle water tank) $70.00. Works like a champ. Is structuraly bullet proof and has a 2" drain plug. And it is oval so you raise the motor, set the tank under it (may need a couple of 2' 4x4's to gain the height), fill the tank and lower the motor in without any interference. I run mine for 15 min and the water doesn't even get warm. The tank is deep enough to cover the exhaust ports also. So the neighbors are happy.

C.A.
Wow a lot of work but if u don't agree and that is the only alternative then go for nothing like salt deposit crystallizing on you and over heating ur engine.
 
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