A 225 OB is probably near the upper limit of the "comfort zone" with a single cable helm. Long range running over 25kts could become a bit tiring at times. I have a single Yammie 225 OX66 on a notch and was contemplating converting to hydraulic on ClassicParker one day when FishFactory suggested NoFeedBack (NFB) cable steering as an alternative to hydraulic.
After some research, I discovered that the OEM Teleflex cable (SSC62) in my 2000 2520MVSC was compatible with a Teleflex NFB helm. I found a great price for the SH 4910 NFB single cable helm online. NFB is designed to counteract the effect of the torque produced by the prop through an ingenious clutch design built into the helm. The plan was to simply replace the existing Teleflex cable helm with a Teleflex NFB helm. The OEM cable would be left in place. Here is the helm before the operation
Once you remove the small set screw that holds the Parker logo center on, you reveal the 3/4 inch locking nut.
Kevin (Megabyte) and Dale had both warned me about loosing a tooth when I remove the wheel so I thought a little mechanical advantage would be in order. 8)
The problem was, there was not enough clearance between the wheel and the plastic helm shroud to fit the arms of a standard gear puller.
A little low-tech improvisation with some header twine and a small gear puller gave me the desired effect. Popped right off :shock:
This is the backside of the helm. The three bolts circled in blue hold the cable (top) and return tube (bottom) in place. These must be removed to separate the helm from the cable.
I decided the easiest way to remove the cable was to drop the helm from the front and "walk" the helm off the cable rather than leave the helm connected and crank the cable out and risk kinking it.
The cable and helm are packed with grease and you need to handle the assemblies with a -clean- pair of gloves so you don't introduce any grit into the grease or on the special helical cable.
Once the old helm is walked off the cable, thread the cable into the new helm and walk it back on.. I used visegrips to crank the helm because the NFB helm required a little more torque to thread the cable in.
Keep cranking until you walk all the cable back in and the outer sleeve is tight against the helm casing.
Replace the three bolts that hold the cable sleeve and return tube in.
Reattach the three bolts on the new helm and your almost done.
Don't forget to put on the shaft key.
Slide the wheel back on, replace the locknut, logo center cover, and you are done! Test the installation to check that you have 4 turns lock to lock and there is no excessive play in the steering.
For less than $100 and less than an hour to swap out the helm, this is a no-brainer if you still have a single cable helm and don't want to convert to hydraulic. Just make sure your cable is compatible with the Teleflex NFB helm.
Thanks FishFactory, for the great suggestion!
After some research, I discovered that the OEM Teleflex cable (SSC62) in my 2000 2520MVSC was compatible with a Teleflex NFB helm. I found a great price for the SH 4910 NFB single cable helm online. NFB is designed to counteract the effect of the torque produced by the prop through an ingenious clutch design built into the helm. The plan was to simply replace the existing Teleflex cable helm with a Teleflex NFB helm. The OEM cable would be left in place. Here is the helm before the operation
Once you remove the small set screw that holds the Parker logo center on, you reveal the 3/4 inch locking nut.
Kevin (Megabyte) and Dale had both warned me about loosing a tooth when I remove the wheel so I thought a little mechanical advantage would be in order. 8)
The problem was, there was not enough clearance between the wheel and the plastic helm shroud to fit the arms of a standard gear puller.
A little low-tech improvisation with some header twine and a small gear puller gave me the desired effect. Popped right off :shock:
This is the backside of the helm. The three bolts circled in blue hold the cable (top) and return tube (bottom) in place. These must be removed to separate the helm from the cable.
I decided the easiest way to remove the cable was to drop the helm from the front and "walk" the helm off the cable rather than leave the helm connected and crank the cable out and risk kinking it.
The cable and helm are packed with grease and you need to handle the assemblies with a -clean- pair of gloves so you don't introduce any grit into the grease or on the special helical cable.
Once the old helm is walked off the cable, thread the cable into the new helm and walk it back on.. I used visegrips to crank the helm because the NFB helm required a little more torque to thread the cable in.
Keep cranking until you walk all the cable back in and the outer sleeve is tight against the helm casing.
Replace the three bolts that hold the cable sleeve and return tube in.
Reattach the three bolts on the new helm and your almost done.
Don't forget to put on the shaft key.
Slide the wheel back on, replace the locknut, logo center cover, and you are done! Test the installation to check that you have 4 turns lock to lock and there is no excessive play in the steering.
For less than $100 and less than an hour to swap out the helm, this is a no-brainer if you still have a single cable helm and don't want to convert to hydraulic. Just make sure your cable is compatible with the Teleflex NFB helm.
Thanks FishFactory, for the great suggestion!
