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bigk23surf

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I'm thinking about upgrading my 12X12 tabs to 12X18 but don't want to move the actuators. I have done a search and can't tell if everyone is moving their actuators or just adding the larger tabs. Can anyone tell me how its done? If you have pics that would be great too.
 
You should be able to with no problem. I have 12 x 18 Bennetts on my 21SE. What specifically are your concerns? Is it using your existing actuator? The new tab should have the exact same mounting point only 3 more inches on each side. Post a pic of your current setup for us to see.
 
Here are some pics of mine


 

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This is not my boat but I have the same tabs. I was worried that I would not be able to mount them any closer to the sides of the boat and would have the extra 6 inches towards the motor. The actuator would not be in the middle of the tabs then. Lenco says to place them 1-4 inches from the chin and I would be over the chin if I just added 3 inches to each side; I don't know how that would effect them.
 
Looks like the outside edge of your tab is right to the edge of the outside strake. It is possible to allow the tab to extend out that way, not ideal but the 3" should not go out too far. Ask Tabman, he will know the best solution. I think you have Lenco tabs, correct?
 
i went from 16 x 12s to 14 x 18s and stayed with the same actuator. just had to drill new holes to mount the tab.
 
Here is what I ended up doing. Was pretty easy to do but took some time to fill the old holes and drill the new ones. Won't be able to see how they work for a month or 2 since I have winterzied the boat for the winter.
 

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Ooooooooh, oh boy, not an unsurmountable one, but regardless, something you really, REALLY need to be aware of and follow-up on! And possibly you've created a potentially dangerous situation that should be corrected. But by mounting the new tabs both further outboard and past the reverse chine on the running hull, 2 things ...

1) When you deploy 1 tab, it will steer the boat towards that side, i.e, to lower the port bow, the system deploys the starboard tab, thus the boat will pull/steer to the starboard a bit.

FYI, mine does that too, but mine are still a good 2-3 inches closer in-board than yours are (mine just pass the reverse chine feature by an inch), as I upgraded to even larger tabs (24" chord or span). To prove to you tabs can steer a boat, just for kicks at planing speeds, I once brought it in from offshore without ever touching the steering wheel ... just by adding or subtracting trim tabs ... and playing with engine speed when I need to pass someone or allow them to safely pass ahead of me :) .

2) You MUST raise trim tabs fully in a following sea condition or you could have severe handling issue and could induce a pitchpole if a huge wave hits you on that side of the boat. This could be a dangerous situation ...for anyone ... yours, even worse!

Tabs should be ideally positioned 3-4" from (inboard) of the chine, where the topsides meets the running hull. Ideally, also should be inboard of any reverse chine feature. You are not only well past the reverse chine, you are almost, if not directly positioned right ON the chine juncture. It is my firm belief that you should move them ... and if it were my boat ... I sure would. I would also contact the tab mfg'r and show them what you did and get their feedback.

In nasty inlets, that positioning could lead to loss of control of the boat. I would also strongly advise that no one else mounts them that far out, that's for sure! Sorry to be the bearer of such news ... but if something bad ever happended that I could have helped prevent, well ... let's just not go there.
 
I was already aware of all of this so I did plenty of research on it before making any changes. The tabs only go about 3/4 of an inch past the reverse chine so it would be very similar to yours. I guess the picture does not show it great but they are still about 3 inches from the side of the boat.

My stock tabs would already make the boat steer so that was not a concern of mine. I actually like it for the reasons you said and also if I have a lot of weight on one side of the boat I level it with the tabs and its works fine. Also I never use tabs when there is a following sea, most the time I will trim the bow a little higher.

When I contacted Lenco they told me that it was recommended that they be mounted 1-4 inches from the chine but did not express any concerns that you have and definitely none of the safety concerns. They did say that they would function more efficiently if I moved the actuator and moved the entire tab closer to the center of the boat. Apparently this is a common modification people do to the 23 foot Parkers because I talked to a couple guys who have done this already and they all loved it! I do appreciate you concern but I am very happy with the way it turned out and will see how they work in March when I put the boat back in the water. Below is another picture of a member who did the same thing.
 

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Replaced my 12x12 Boat Levelers with 24x9 Bennets back in 2003.
Best thing I ever did.

i did not worry about the actuators. Just mounted everything up, and drilled new holes.
Fiberglass repair is simple once you try it, and putting the tabs and actuators in the proper place is money well spent.
 
So whats the general consensus - optimal length width and best possible location on my sterndrive?
All opinions and advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks, steve
 
doorman":1jnsdl1z said:
So whats the general consensus - optimal length width and best possible location on my sterndrive?
All opinions and advice is greatly appreciated!

I put a set of 24 (wide) x 12 (deep) Bennetts on my 2520 replacing the stock 12x12 Boat Levelers.
It made a world of difference.

I do know that we have at least one member who installed 30x12's, so they can also be fitted to the 25 hull.
So far as installation is concerned, see if this link answers your questions.
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/pdf/inst ... ctions.pdf
 
Ok I understand the location.
I was reading post from the past - Dale mentioned 9x30 WOW :shock: serously :shock:
I would imagine youd need at least two actuators per tab right ?
The reason I ask is material and fabrication of the tabs would only cost me couple fishing trips LOL.
Thanks again
 
Dammmm ! :shock:
These girls got back! :p
Chicky chicky Bow Wow! :lol:
 
doorman":3768n5a7 said:
I was reading post from the past - Dale mentioned 9x30 WOW :shock: serously :shock:
I would imagine youd need at least two actuators per tab right ?

Nope. Just one actuator.
 
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