Replacing my fuse block

[TimC2520]

Sometime next year, I am contemplating adding a stereo, and maybe down the road radar, but that is probably 2+ years down the road. The first photo below is my current fuse block, as you can see, it's an 9 circuit block and there is only one spot left, with no open grounds left.

I was thinking "How can I do this and make it as easy as possible" for a relatively new DIY'er.
I came across this 12 circuit Blue Seas, Blade Fuse Block (photo attached), which also has a negative bus on the same mount.
Correct me if I am wrong, but is it as easy as:

(1) Removing the current glass fuse block.
(2) Take the pos and neg "supply" cables off of the old block and connect them to the new one.
(3) Replace the connectors on the accessories with the correct style and plug them back on to the new block.
(4) Install correct Amp blade fuses to replace the glass style used on the old block.

Then I'd have 12 circuits on that block, instead of 9.

What am I missing?

 

[HM5]

Tim, that is a great fuse block. I have used it in the past to rewire a couple of boats. You will have to change the terminals from spades to rings. Make sure that the supply wires from the battery switch are heavy enough gauge to handle the load you are going to add. Looks like a great winter project with a high degree of self satisfaction. Have fun, and don't forget to stock up on the ponder beverages :lol:

 

[TimC2520]

Hi Matthew,

Those supply wires from the battery are still OEM, 1999, but I am not sure of the size, tough to tell from the picture and my boat is getting worked on some 100+- miles away and is inaccesssible until early February. The wiring schematic I have that came with the boat says 6 gauge. Do you think that's sufficient? There are only two more options I'd like to have on the boat and that's a stereo soon and down the road,
possibly radar.

What's existing now are push on terminals, the new block takes either ring or spade terminals. I'd probably use a heat shrink option also.
Which do you think would be better?

 

[Hugs Tug]

Personally, I would use adhesive lined shrink ring terminals. For added protection then dab on liquid electrical tape.
Any alterations to the electrical system that I have ever done has been this way.
Never a problem down the road.
Make sure the the feeders are sized accordingly. Total up the total amp draw iof all the circuits including distance voltage drop to size the feeders correctly.
Easy and satisfing job.
Good Luck
Tom

 

[HM5]

The AWG 6 should be sufficient, but check out the link for a wire sizer calculator tool that Dale posted. This will help you narrow it down.
http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=350

I would also agree that the adhesive shrink tube ring terminals are the way to go.

 

[FishAC]

we just re-wired our entire boat last winter and replaced out our old fuse block with that same one. It works very nicely and the spacing between terminals gives you enough room to work, especially in a tight spot.

 

[Bryan 2530]

I used that same block on my old boat, worked great, here is a picture of the start of the job, funny I didn't take a finished picture. Sold the boat and she is still going strong.

Also....

I used the open ended connectors with the uptured ends on them. It makes them easier to install because you donot have to remove the screw. Get the heat shrink ones that seal up the end and there is no need for liquid electrical tape. A little corosion blocker on when the job is complete and you are done, much neater.