so you know..fuel tank check valves @ pick-up screen..

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Capt. John Deering

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had a minor is with the motor stopping for no reason while on plane. after twice it ran good all day. checked ever thing i could on the water. boat is a 2001 w/ 200 ox66, and i had never thought about check valves or screens on the pick-up tube. so long story short, sent parker an email and asked if the tank had either. response was yes.

i tore the thing apart. i found no check valve or pick-up screen on the tube, called parker back. he acknowledged they did change the set-up, i.e. no screen or check valve. he agreed it would be a good idea to change the primer bulb...thought you guys might be interested.
 
You don't by instance use wing-nuts on your batteru terminals do you ... ??
 
Just as another data point.. I went through a similar investigation after having gasoline gushing into my bilge while changing out the fuel/water separator for the first time on my new to me 1999 21DVCC. I found no anti-siphon valve at the tank, and the fuel pickup looked to be a simple piece of hose that extended straight down into the tank with nothing at the end.

I ended up adding an anti-siphon valve (took some hunting to find one of the appropriate size) at the tank, but in retro-spect could have just as easily added a fuel shutoff valve inline and upstream of my fuel/water seperator.

-- Tom
 
I know it's been stated before, but this one bears repeating...

When replacing the primer bulb on your fuel system, do not use one of the Tempo bulbs that you generally find in the local Worst Marine.

Instead, use the real deal Yamaha or Bombardier part (not sure what Merc or Honda uses). The Yam and BRP parts are of a much higher quality than the Tempo part.
 
IMHO wing-nuts should NEVER be used on battery terminal connections. Newer OBs don't run the computer if voltage falls below 10-11 volts.

Connections using wing-nuts (instead of nylok nut fasteners) are prone to vibration and causing all sorts of symptoms (failure to stasrt, run smooth, or shut-offs, etc.) plus problems, as it can cause stators, ECUs, voltage rectifier/regulator and other electrical components to fail.

... my reply was just a shot in the dark ...
 
Dale is correct. My second year out, one of the kids at the dealer used wing nuts when he installed the batteries in the spring. I didn't even notice. I began having problems that the dealer later traced back to the use of those wing nuts. The motor sometimes wouldn't start, or would shut down on me and my electronics kept acting up. Now I check it every spring before it leaves the dealer. Nice catch Dale. I had forgotten about that.
 
Do you guys know off hand the size of these lock nuts for the batteries?
I've just realized my voltage drop at start up never happened when boat was new with lock nuts, now I have wing nuts and I'm having voltage drop issues at start up.


:?:
 
TimC2520":1b5qv0m4 said:
Do you guys know off hand the size of these lock nuts for the batteries?
I've just realized my voltage drop at start up never happened when boat was new with lock nuts, now I have wing nuts and I'm having voltage drop issues at start up. :?:

POSITIVE Terminal:
3/8"-16 tpi (coarse thread) nylok nut, using 9/16" socket or open-end wrench to attach.

NEGATIVE Terminal:
5/16"-18 tpi (coarse thread) nylok nut, using 1/2" socket or open-end wrench to attach.

DO NOT allow the wrench to bridge both terminals when attaching one, you will have literally created a welding gun in your hand and it will arc :shock: ... ask me how I know ;) !
 
DaleH":z92wk688 said:
DO NOT allow the wrench to bridge both terminals when attaching one, you will have literally created a welding gun in your hand and it will arc :shock: ... ask me how I know ;) !

Flat top batteries in '57 Chevrolets were an excellent tool storage area in my early days of hot rodding. If one lays enough wrenches on top, chances are... sooner or later they'll make a chain across and the last one, still in my hand will make that welding gun you speak of. :shock:

I'm glad to hear some Parkers have nothing but a pipe or tube in gas tank. IMO, one place where less is more gooder.
 
Every boat place sells them, just make sure to buy stainless steel ones. Nothing special, they should be from $0.35 to $0.50 each.
 
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