jeffnick
Well-known member
We run a 2120 with stock Lenco tabs. I've read posts on folks upsizing their tabs.
What 'symptoms' inspire the need for larger tabs?
What 'symptoms' inspire the need for larger tabs?
Why Upsize Stock Lenco's?
- Thread starter jeffnick
- Start date
Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:
rangerdog
Well-known member
Jeff, with more than me aboard, (and with my batteries in the port aft) I need to deploy the port tab almost fully and the starboard fully retracted in order th have zero list while at cruise. Depends on the wind and tide, of course. My boat doesn't really jump on plane either. I am going with wider (longer) and skinnier tabs over the next winter. LOTS of threads here about tabs.
I can't speak for the 2120, but on my 2520, the 12x12 OEM Boat Leveler tabs were woefully inadequate. There wasn't enough surface area with the 12x12's to get the bow down and trim the boat properly.
I live on the Chesapeake Bay which is (in)famous for its short, steep chop. Also, my Parker is the older style 14 degree MVSC hull, which requires a bit more 'finesse' in order to get a good ride.
In order to get an acceptable ride when the Bay gets bumped up, you need to be able to get the bow down to where the stem (the pointy part of the bow) can cleave through the waves, rather than letting the waves slap against the bottom. That 'slap' against the bottom is known as 'pounding' and is the result of improper trim, and many times too much speed.
With larger tabs, that is... tabs with more surface area, you can more easilly leverage the boat to get the bow down and improve the ride.
I removed the 12x12 Boat Leveler OEM tabs from my 2520 and replaced them with 24(wide)x9(deep) Bennett tabs, and the results were dramatic.
I was out this past Saturday on a SCW day with 18kt winds from the N and was able to make 20kts for most of my trip, headed directly into the wind... and no pounding.
Another benefit of the larger tabs? When the Bay really gets bumped up, I can drop the tabs and stay on plane without pounding at 9 to 10 kts. That is something you just cannot do with the OEM 12x12's.
Is there a downside to larger tabs? Yes. When transiting an area in following seas, you need to remember to retract the tabs fully. If you don't, the larger tabs will accentuate the tendency of following seas to push the stern around causing an ill handling boat.
So when transiting an inlet or narrow channel with a moving tide, make sure you fully retract the tabs so there are no suprises. :shock:
With a proper set of tabs and proper use of the throttle, you can drive any Parker MV or DV anywhere without pounding.
Want to go faster? Buy a Regulator, Contender, or Southport.
I live on the Chesapeake Bay which is (in)famous for its short, steep chop. Also, my Parker is the older style 14 degree MVSC hull, which requires a bit more 'finesse' in order to get a good ride.
In order to get an acceptable ride when the Bay gets bumped up, you need to be able to get the bow down to where the stem (the pointy part of the bow) can cleave through the waves, rather than letting the waves slap against the bottom. That 'slap' against the bottom is known as 'pounding' and is the result of improper trim, and many times too much speed.
With larger tabs, that is... tabs with more surface area, you can more easilly leverage the boat to get the bow down and improve the ride.
I removed the 12x12 Boat Leveler OEM tabs from my 2520 and replaced them with 24(wide)x9(deep) Bennett tabs, and the results were dramatic.
I was out this past Saturday on a SCW day with 18kt winds from the N and was able to make 20kts for most of my trip, headed directly into the wind... and no pounding.
Another benefit of the larger tabs? When the Bay really gets bumped up, I can drop the tabs and stay on plane without pounding at 9 to 10 kts. That is something you just cannot do with the OEM 12x12's.
Is there a downside to larger tabs? Yes. When transiting an area in following seas, you need to remember to retract the tabs fully. If you don't, the larger tabs will accentuate the tendency of following seas to push the stern around causing an ill handling boat.
So when transiting an inlet or narrow channel with a moving tide, make sure you fully retract the tabs so there are no suprises. :shock:
With a proper set of tabs and proper use of the throttle, you can drive any Parker MV or DV anywhere without pounding.
Want to go faster? Buy a Regulator, Contender, or Southport.
jeffnick
Well-known member
Thanks, Y'all.
I guess the reasons for larger tabs is the same as for the initial installation:
Level trim
Reduce/eliminate pounding
Improve handling in lumpy seas
I just put Bennets on my 1850 Seaswirl and they made a world of difference = no more pounding and predictable control in lumpy water. The improvements were so dramatic it made me wonder if larger tabs on the 2120 would do the same for the Parker...seems they will.
I guess the reasons for larger tabs is the same as for the initial installation:
Level trim
Reduce/eliminate pounding
Improve handling in lumpy seas
I just put Bennets on my 1850 Seaswirl and they made a world of difference = no more pounding and predictable control in lumpy water. The improvements were so dramatic it made me wonder if larger tabs on the 2120 would do the same for the Parker...seems they will.
plattapuss
Well-known member
I installed 12x18's on my 2120. They work much better than the stock 12x12's. Installed a Permatrim. I now love the way the boat handles. I can adjust for all conditions. I have almost 700hrs on my 05.
Outta Here
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2006
- Messages
- 1,039
- Reaction score
- 1
Megabyte":315gjjzo said:Want to go faster? Buy a Regulator, Contender, or Southport.
Southport? :roll: :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:
channel_surfer
Well-known member
Dont know why, but the sotck tabs on my 2520SL work GREAT. The boat rides pretty level with them both up, but if it is listing (wind, load, whatever) the tabs easily compensate. And if I'm running at any speed on plane, if I drop them both the bow completely plows down into the water. I would see no need whatsoever to replace or upgrade them. They are electric Lencos, recessed into the hull. 12X12 I believe.
The recessed tabs are a new design. You can see several differences between the new and the old in these photos.
Notice that in addition to the tabs being recessed, the planes are curved down, catching more water that the old style which are curved up.
I have not driven one of the new boats yet to be able to compare it with my upgraded tabs, so all I can go by are these photos and my observations.
It appears that Parker knew that the old style tabs needed a redesign and did something about it. :wink:
Here are the new tabs on a modified vee 2520.
These are the old style tabs on a 2310 deep vee.
Notice that in addition to the tabs being recessed, the planes are curved down, catching more water that the old style which are curved up.
I have not driven one of the new boats yet to be able to compare it with my upgraded tabs, so all I can go by are these photos and my observations.
It appears that Parker knew that the old style tabs needed a redesign and did something about it. :wink:
Here are the new tabs on a modified vee 2520.
These are the old style tabs on a 2310 deep vee.
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
I had on my 2006 CC DV the 12x12 Lenco "Edge Mount" Tabs (curved upwards),I changed only the blades keeping the actuator in same place to 12x18's and the differnace was substantial,now I can completely bury the bow so that more boat is in the water thereby reducing pounding.
Now the boat rides like it should,of course i'm in south florida (Keys) and almost all days are perfect were I do not have to fight any chop more than 2 to 3 footers,sometimes more,but rarely.
Robert
Now the boat rides like it should,of course i'm in south florida (Keys) and almost all days are perfect were I do not have to fight any chop more than 2 to 3 footers,sometimes more,but rarely.
Robert
96TL
Well-known member
Robert Cibran":2fxvukfn said:
Did you offset the actuators? I'm interested in doing the same thing.
Thanks.
Dom
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
Dom,
No I did not Offset the Actuators,there are 7 holes holding the blade bracket on the 12x12,the center one which is the one that lines up to the actuator is used as guide to drill new holes as the 12x18 has 11 holes,I plugged the old 6 holes with marinetex using a syringe (west marine),then tape them so that it would not oozz out,when dried left tape in place,put new 12x18 blades using center old hole as guide,put screw,then drilled the new hole onto tape (so no gelcoat gets damaged) and then just screwed new balde in palce using 1.25 SS screws #14 ( do not use longer than 1.25),real simple,takes 3 hours and what a differance,you wont be disappointed.
Robert
No I did not Offset the Actuators,there are 7 holes holding the blade bracket on the 12x12,the center one which is the one that lines up to the actuator is used as guide to drill new holes as the 12x18 has 11 holes,I plugged the old 6 holes with marinetex using a syringe (west marine),then tape them so that it would not oozz out,when dried left tape in place,put new 12x18 blades using center old hole as guide,put screw,then drilled the new hole onto tape (so no gelcoat gets damaged) and then just screwed new balde in palce using 1.25 SS screws #14 ( do not use longer than 1.25),real simple,takes 3 hours and what a differance,you wont be disappointed.
Robert
96TL
Well-known member
Is the whole blade underwater when you're on plane? This is going to be a spring project for sure.
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
Dom,
Yes the whole blade is under water,you have to remember my boat is 2300CC DV and I do not have the weight of pilot house on front,when the new blades 12x18 are mounted and old actuators left in same place,you are still on specs as to Lecon's recomendations,which are 1 to 4 inches from chime (outer edge of boat)and the extra 3 inches towards V (motor) will cross over the reverse strake.look in the Lenco website,read as much as you can,all info is there and specs you have to respect,my lencos are the ones which have a turned edge (forgot name),I think they are called edge mount,this is important,make sure to see what type you have now so that when buying new blades, you can keep same actuators.blades run $132.00 a piece,so for basicly $270.00 you have solved the parker's problem of heavy stern.so guys recomend cahnging to even bigger tabs,but I did not want to drll any new holes on my transom or cover up holes which will be seen later as my boat is Brand Spakin New.
Robert
Yes the whole blade is under water,you have to remember my boat is 2300CC DV and I do not have the weight of pilot house on front,when the new blades 12x18 are mounted and old actuators left in same place,you are still on specs as to Lecon's recomendations,which are 1 to 4 inches from chime (outer edge of boat)and the extra 3 inches towards V (motor) will cross over the reverse strake.look in the Lenco website,read as much as you can,all info is there and specs you have to respect,my lencos are the ones which have a turned edge (forgot name),I think they are called edge mount,this is important,make sure to see what type you have now so that when buying new blades, you can keep same actuators.blades run $132.00 a piece,so for basicly $270.00 you have solved the parker's problem of heavy stern.so guys recomend cahnging to even bigger tabs,but I did not want to drll any new holes on my transom or cover up holes which will be seen later as my boat is Brand Spakin New.
Robert
96TL
Well-known member
Hmm. I dont mind filling in any holes. Not a big deal. I just want the boat to perform as best as it can. Maybe I can go slightly larger. I'm willing to offset the blade a bit. 8)
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
Dom,
You may want to go larger,say to 12x24 or even 12x30,some of the guys swear by these two blades sizes,ask around.some even recomend changing to Bennets,theres a fellow called Tabman and he is very knowlegdable on all sizes of tabs for every boat.
Robert
You may want to go larger,say to 12x24 or even 12x30,some of the guys swear by these two blades sizes,ask around.some even recomend changing to Bennets,theres a fellow called Tabman and he is very knowlegdable on all sizes of tabs for every boat.
Robert
96TL
Well-known member
I would love to switch to Bennetts, but I cant even access the bilge side of the Lenco cables. I dont know what Parker expects someone to do if they need access?
How are you guys swapping over?
How are you guys swapping over?
96TL":1yzkohet said:
I had the same issue...
Even though I didn't want to do it, I ran my hydraulic lines several inches above the top of the hydraulic ram and entered the transom using clamshells from the outside.
Not as elegant as a flush install, but it can't be seen under the swim platform, so no one can tell. :wink:
Look at the boot stripe on the transom and you can see the lines.
That solved the 'hidden pass-through' problem.
Outta Here
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2006
- Messages
- 1,039
- Reaction score
- 1
96TL":n3mazu8k said:
I don't think you have to. Completely assemble the hose to top of actuator, fish thru hole and install actuator. I'll bet TabMan at Bennett can tell you exactly how to do it.
You know the old saying, "Speak softly, and carry a big Bennett"
Mega, If I remember right, years ago, all Bennetts had an exposed hose. Your install adds a definate "old school" or should I say "CLASSIC" look. :wink:
"96" I ordered w/tab delete so I had no holes to fill. Would the new Bennett actuators cover old holes? Again TabMan would know.
96TL
Well-known member
What did you do with the old Lenco cable holes?
96TL":istugjav said:
I didn't have Lencos on mine. Parker was installing Boat Leveler hydraulics back in 1996, and I re-used the external holes and clamshels that the BL tabs used.
FishFactory is right. External lines were standard on Bennetts years ago. They switched to flush lines at a later date. Tom McGow (Tabman) sent me a conversion kit to run mine flush, but unfortunately I couldn't use them.
