1994 Parker 2320 extended cabin open back project

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Some products that I think you can use during your projects are polyester resin and cab o sol and MEKP Catalyst. Resin and the catalyst alone for filling small cracks that you will be covering with gel coat. Larger repairs you will mix in the Cab o Sol which is chopped up fiberglass mat for strength. The polyester resin will allow the gel coat to bond to it. See the link to this YouTube vid about mixing this stuff up. He is mixing the thicker version but the takeaway is the process and to understand that it's not an exact science so you can mix to the thickness of your needs. I've attached the link to my spring projects and another one from moving my trim tabs where I used the process. I did fill a larger crack that was in my transum along with screw holes and a few gel coat repairs in the hull. Hopefully it will demonstrate the concept. I've not used West Systems stuff but have heard about many who have. Wart and others here turned me on to this process (polyester resin) and it's cheap and easy. It's easily sandable and the gel coat bonds to it easily. After seeing the sampling of the things you need to repair I think you need to get a whole qt of the gel coat. Again, call any Parker dealer and they should have it. Dont mess with trying to use that stuff you have to color match. JMO

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=15477&hilit=Trim+tabs

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http://youtu.be/N3kmr9ZctUo
 
Bulk of the spider cracks in the gel coat can be sanded and new gelcoat applied (from my research) . Now the roof is another matter entirely. My plan is to remove everything mounted on it and cut open the bad areas. Not sure if I will add more core material or layer resin and glass Matt to reinforce and build it up to height .


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I agree with you on the spider cracks. Sanding and new gel coat where needed then sanding, compound & polishing should fix them. On some of the larger cracks around the roof and others I saw, you may find that you need to grind down to the point that refilling with the resin/resin & cabosol is needed? The good thing about gel coat is that it's hard to mess up to bad as you can sand most stuff out and always reapply and start again. If oxidation/fading on the hull is pretty bad, you can take a high number wet sand to it and then go to compound and polish/wax. You can make her look good as new. Several guys here have done the roof sections and documented their projects well. I've not had to dive that deep thankfully. You definately have some work ahead of you depending on the level you are shooting for. I do like the helm style you and the others have better than mine. You have some good bones to work with and a cool Boat.
 
Thanks for the advice and reinforcement. The hull and transom are in very good condition with virtually no spider cracking at all. Bulk of the repairs will be to the roof and pilothouse. This will be the most in depth repair work I’ve ever attempted but I’m looking forward to the project. At least when I’m done I will know what I have. My intention is to keep this hull for many years so in my mind it’s worth the effort


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I realize this a very basic question for a beginner but how is the best way to apply gelcoat over repaired areas? And are more than one coat required to build it up? I was planning on either brushing or perhaps rolling it on. I will be repairing the fish box in the floor as well. The inside is chipped and looks like some delamination has occurred in there as well. My plan is the strip the inside and re glass it . The. Either paint or gel coat it .


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Brent":6necr44g said:
Take pics,! You will be an expert soon!

B2
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Haha...thx for the vote of confidence. I will document my progress and edit my failings


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Brent":p63jklaj said:
Take pics,! You will be an expert soon!

B2
Click to expand...
I have not done severe spider cracks but thought to ground out cracks with Dremel or other tools, fill them, sand then spray multiple gel coats. I would buy a good spray gun, tape and paper. I would PVA to the spray mix for curing. Parker uses vinylester gelcoat which better than regular gelcoat. And s good mask!

B2
 
*ouch...$175 for a sprayer. I agree this would be the way to go and may be worth the cost.


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When I reach out to Parker dealers for gelcoat is there a color code for the 1994 hull?


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mheltunen":25gez6bn said:
When I reach out to Parker dealers for gelcoat is there a color code for the 1994 hull?


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I don't know. They phased out the original color. I would check Cecil Marine web site and CP archives. Post an update to help others. I had a quart in refrigerator but it was accidentally tossed.

B2
 
I purchased a spray can/device that I ended up not using. I think from West Marine. On the repairs inside of my jump seats I just brushed on the gel coat and called it done as it’s just inside of compartments. On the hull repairs I used a flexible putty knife and just sanded after curing. I’ll see if I can put my hands on that spray kit I purchased so I can give you the name of it etc.. it mentioned in the instructions that you needed to thin the gel coat with something ( maybe mineral spirits or ??) and I didn’t have any large enough areas to do that I felt the need to figure it out. If you have ever spackled dry wall repairs that is what working with gel coat is like. You will be surprised how it turns out. If you can figure out how to spray it though, I think your options will be better and less sanding will be required.
 
New stainless thru hull fittings will be delivered this week. I was looking at the fuel vent this morning (current one is plastic) and considering going to stainless as well. For some reason plastic thru-hulls seem like a liability to me. Any recommendations? I was inspecting my floor “fish box” and noticed the only penetration is the drain hole in the bottom which is connected to a thru hull fitting (a pickup style) directly below. I sort of like the simplicity of this setup but have never seen or used one in past. I assume by removing the plug while the boat is in the water the tank will fill. And when on plane I assume it will drain?


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mheltunen":bd9e6gkf said:
New stainless thru hull fittings will be delivered this week. I was looking at the fuel vent this morning (current one is plastic) and considering going to stainless as well. For some reason plastic thru-hulls seem like a liability to me. Any recommendations? I was inspecting my floor “fish box” and noticed the only penetration is the drain hole in the bottom which is connected to a thru hull fitting (a pickup style) directly below. I sort of like the simplicity of this setup but have never seen or used one in past. I assume by removing the plug while the boat is in the water the tank will fill. And when on plane I assume it will drain?


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Many replace them but I have not. They are from Marlon and not cracked or bad. M2cw


B2
 
Brent":c1ik5xc4 said:
mheltunen":c1ik5xc4 said:
New stainless thru hull fittings will be delivered this week. I was looking at the fuel vent this morning (current one is plastic) and considering going to stainless as well. For some reason plastic thru-hulls seem like a liability to me. Any recommendations? I was inspecting my floor “fish box” and noticed the only penetration is the drain hole in the bottom which is connected to a thru hull fitting (a pickup style) directly below. I sort of like the simplicity of this setup but have never seen or used one in past. I assume by removing the plug while the boat is in the water the tank will fill. And when on plane I assume it will drain?


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Click to expand...
Many replace them but I have not. They are from Marlon and not cracked or bad. M2cw


B2
Click to expand...
Marelon is correct name

B2
 
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