couple fiberglass questions (re-corring) help a noob out!

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Here is a suggestion.

It will take a little custom fitting and mock up. the aft bulkhead that you cut out....... Install a Limber hole at each corner even with the top of the tank.

Install the Coal Tared tank.....Foam it in with 4lb density. Then trim the foam even with the top of the tank. Now with some 3in fiberglass tape....Something around 10 or 12oz weight. Lap the glass from the side to the top of the tank in a L shape.

This will seal any water feom wicking into the new foam that may leak thru a piehole...You'll never know if it does or doesn't.

That water will lay on the top of the tank......But you installed those limbers so it will drain away.
 
warthog5":19uaadwo said:
Here is a suggestion.

It will take a little custom fitting and mock up. the aft bulkhead that you cut out....... Install a Limber hole at each corner even with the top of the tank.

Install the Coal Tared tank.....Foam it in with 4lb density. Then trim the foam even with the top of the tank. Now with some 3in fiberglass tape....Something around 10 or 12oz weight. Lap the glass from the side to the top of the tank in a L shape.

This will seal any water feom wicking into the new foam that may leak thru a piehole...You'll never know if it does or doesn't.

That water will lay on the top of the tank......But you installed those limbers so it will drain away.

The guy putting everything back together is planning on putting nice large limber holes in every stringer and bulkhead. There should be no way for any water to become trapped. He also said as far as the new tank goes, he will use the metal tabs and some sort of bracing under the tank to allow air flow all the way around the tank. Air flow coupled with the large limber holes along with no more foam should keep the area from holding water.

I spent all day yesterday researching paint.... I think ole girl is about to get "cloud white" awlgrip from the run rail up and "seafoam" awlgrip from the rub rail to the bottom paint. I'm kind of nervous about roll and tip.... But hey gotta try something right?


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Brent":ies517ln said:
a curious question about your old tank

Does it have baffles?
If so, how many? Orientation? port to starboard or bow to aft?

thanks

Brent I went and looked and it's hard to tell. I'm going to open her up when I get a chance and let you know.


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Well boys I am back at work on this dang tug... Currently 80ish miles south of Port Fourchon LA, should be dockside by 21:30 tonight :) !

anyway, I can't stop thinking about this boat and putting together a time line for completion... I have so much to do and so little time to do it! This next time home 10/18 - 11/15, I intend to:
1. sand and paint the engine compartment (PAINT RECOMENDATIONS???)
2. build a mold for the old engine hatch and make a new one
3. complete as much of the rewire as humanly possible before re-installing the engine and generator
4. run all fuel/water/exhaust lines from the engine compartment to the generator area (via my new big bad ass chase the fiberglass guy is building :D :D :D :D :D :D :D )

If I can get all the above done before 11/15 I should be able to drop it off and have the mechanic drop the engine back in. It sure would be nice to do some sea trials when I get home in December!

Also if you all have seen in other threads where I thought about building a sliding door... I think I have that all figured out, well for the most part.... I found this awesome hardware online. I intend to order some and check it out.http://www.boatoutfitters.com/boat-slid ... dware.html
I think with some fancy starboard work it should come out fairly nice.

oh and I also intend to try and kill a deer sometime while I'm home.... The one thing you can't work and earn or buy... TIME! oh.... and I might try to see my wife... still haven't made up my mind of that one lol! :lol: :lol:

thoughts?
 
Was supposed to head home and work on the boat last Tuesday. Drove from Port Fourchon LA all the way to Panama City fl. Was home all of 30 hours to turn around and come back to work.... oh well another week at sea will add some good cash flow to the project I suppose.


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The guy putting everything back together is planning on putting nice large limber holes in every stringer and bulkhead. There should be no way for any water to become trapped. He also said as far as the new tank goes, he will use the metal tabs and some sort of bracing under the tank to allow air flow all the way around the tank. Air flow coupled with the large limber holes along with no more foam should keep the area from holding water.

Here is what you need to understand about bare alum.
It requires air to create that self protective coating. The lack of air and bare alum, combined with water is what caused the hole. The foam held the water and did not allow the air around the alum.

Now the fix is protecting the alum. Hence .....The Coal Tar Epoxy.

This now protects the alum from the elements.

If I was doing it.....It would be foamed in again. The forces that are there with a 600+ lb weight are tremendious. A few tabs and #12 screws is not adequate. A tank that has broken loose is a Wrecking Ball.

I've done and seen a LOT of tanks.
 
warthog5":2l7657uv said:
The guy putting everything back together is planning on putting nice large limber holes in every stringer and bulkhead. There should be no way for any water to become trapped. He also said as far as the new tank goes, he will use the metal tabs and some sort of bracing under the tank to allow air flow all the way around the tank. Air flow coupled with the large limber holes along with no more foam should keep the area from holding water.

Here is what you need to understand about bare alum.
It requires air to create that self protective coating. The lack of air and bare alum, combined with water is what caused the hole. The foam held the water and did not allow the air around the alum.

Now the fix is protecting the alum. Hence .....The Coal Tar Epoxy.

This now protects the alum from the elements.

If I was doing it.....It would be foamed in again. The forces that are there with a 600+ lb weight are tremendious. A few tabs and #12 screws is not adequate. A tank that has broken loose is a Wrecking Ball.

I've done and seen a LOT of tanks.

Sorry for it taking so long to reply. I got home and got called directly back to work. He used hard rubber strips secured to the hull then used the tabs to secure the tank. I got a couple days off and went to inspect. Seems solid to me as I couldn't break it out.

Good thing I went by there too. RDS "forgot" to coat the tank. They refunded my money and the fiberglass guy pulled the tank and coated it.


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Here are some updated pics. Had to pull the tank to apply epoxy. It is back in now and the major fiberglass work should be done soon! Can't wait!
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Bonus hole patch from a crappy head install from the previous owner....
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1. sand and paint the engine compartment (PAINT RECOMENDATIONS???)

Sherwinn Williams Tile Cad HS It's a True Epoxy.... It's used to paint the inside of water towers and also makes a good shop floor paint for concrete.

No priming needed.... Will not lift or bubble..... You can roll and brush it..... It will flow nicely and it will clean easily.

You need part A and Part B...... smallest size is a gal.... So you will have 2gal total.
 
warthog5":3v0nw1vi said:
1. sand and paint the engine compartment (PAINT RECOMENDATIONS???)

Sherwinn Williams Tile Cad HS It's a True Epoxy.... It's used to paint the inside of water towers and also makes a good shop floor paint for concrete.

No priming needed.... Will not lift or bubble..... You can roll and brush it..... It will flow nicely and it will clean easily.

You need part A and Part B...... smallest size is a gal.... So you will have 2gal total.

I will definitely look into it! Thanks for the info!


Less than 24 more hours and we have to make a 320 mile round trip towing some good ole crude oil. I'll update you all as I can!


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Finally got some updated pics from the wife when she went to make the final payment for the fiberglass work!

The deck is back on. Notice the 4" pipe sticking up in the stand fwd corner. This will be. Chase for the generators fuel, water, and exhaust lines.
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Another up-close pic of the chase pipe
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Other end of the chase located in the engine compartment just aft of the fuel tank
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Aft deck and engine compartment (will clean and paint this month before re-installing engine
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Patched all the holes where the old fuel, water, exhaust lines ran inside the wheel house
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Flush mount hatch to allow access to all pick ups and return lines and fuel sending unit
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Patched multiple exterior through hull from previous owner. He loved punching holes I guess...
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I will post more pics as they come in. The guy also re-cored areas of rot in the overhead and patched the whole from the factory running lights on the bow. I will be moving those to the top of the wheel house. Can't wait to get this thing done!


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warthog5":1rge18s0 said:
Can't say as I've ever seen a fuel sending unit like that.

How does it fasten in?

It screws into a bung. From what everyone including RDS says.... the tank and boat will go out before the sender does. I'll let everyone know how it works when I get it all hooked up.


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Well we got the boat back from the fiberglass shop. I am beyond happy with mr. Paul Flagg at Professional Fiberglass Repair in Panama City Florida. He was accurate and fair with his pricing and is a wealth of information!

My wife and I tried to get the engine compartment cleaned up and painted before I had to return to work. We got close but between 2 hunting trips, Christmas, New Years, and some sort of attic front, we didn't make it. All the small screw holes are patched and the area is sanded. I just need to clean it and roll paint when I get home. After that it's time for the engine and some wiring fun! Enjoy the pics, I'm glad my wife is a good sport lol
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https://vimeo.com/199381535


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Well after 3 months of begging my local Volvo mechanic to call me back, without any luck.... I had to ask a friend to go pick up my engine for me. I'm not one to bash local small business.... however, my checks always clear and payments are on time. I can't stand being dodged. Either way. Gel coat is being rolled in the engine compartment as well speak. New mechanic is cleaning the engine and preparing to install next week. We are moving right along! I can't wait to go home and do some of this work myself! Check out the engine pics.
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Oh and a little pic of lunch today! Sometimes running a boat out of south lousisana isn't always bad! Chicken and Sausage Gumbo made by the chief engineer.
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