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05 2520sl fuel line problem

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fishizzle

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put my boat in the other day for a test.....primed the ball till hard...took out and started stalling like starving for fuel. mechanic at marina feels fuel from the tank is getting hung up where the connection meets the hose...he want to change it and install a on/off valve. does this make sense? anybody else have this problem. worked fine when reprimed the ball (how I got back in) just till that fuel was burned and had to keep priming.
 

stonebuster

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What motor do you have? I had a problem last year with my 2004 225F Yamaha that sounds similar to yours. It would starve for fuel, I'd reprime ball and it would run until the fuel I forced into it ran out. If you have a similar four stroke as mine, check your feed pump 5 amp fuse and see if it is fried. My feed pump was shot and kept blowing 5 amp fuses. Check the primary fuel pump fuse too. Good luck.
 

DaleH

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Check what Stonebuster said, same motor. IMHO an on/off fuel switch won't do anything to help you but lighten your wallet.
 

Capt Brad

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Fishizzle what your mechanic was talking about is called the anti-syphon valve. However if the primer ball doesn't go flat when engine is stalling than that is not the problem. The anti-syphon valve is in the fuel cell and if your boat is brand new or has been sitting for a while it can be bad (its pretty common). Just a little FYI. Good luck Capt Brad.
 

fishizzle

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what do you mean flat? it does not stay hard....is that what you mean?
thank you
 

Capt Brad

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The primer ball will be sucked flat and not be able to expand back. It could be the primer ball itself make sure the ball and fuel hose is laying right, make sure the arrow on the ball is facing up at least a little it has a check valve in it that will not work if the ball is laying down. Remember fuel problems are trial and error repairs check the easy things first yourself. Your mechanic will if you end up a the shop @ $100.00 per hr!!!
Good Luck Capt Brad
 

fishizzle

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ball is not flat.....gets hard when you prime...soft when fuel in line is burned
 

Megabyte

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If you decide to replace the primer bulb, do yourself a favor and do not use one of the cheapo Perko replacement bulbs. Spend the extra couple of bucks and get one of the name brands (such as the Yamaha OEM bulbs).

The cheapo aftermarket bulbs have caused more problems than they have ever cured. :evil:
 

Porkchunker

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How old is the boat? If new, then it is probably construction residue left behind by the tank manufacturer. If older, then it is probably junk that has settled out of the fuel over time.

Did your last fill-up include the new E10 (ethanol) blend? If so, the ethanol is a solvent and will loosen the varnish that settles out of the fuel onto the internal surfaces of the tank and lines. That could be your problem. If that is the case, be patient and have a lot of in-line fuel/water separator/filter elements until the junk is finally out of the tank.

Megabyte (Kevin) has the new Yami 10 micron filter that was shipped to the dealers/service centers specifically to deal with the ethanol problem.

Your mechanic's desire to remove the anti-siphon valve and install an in-line on/off fuel valve is not off-base. The anti-siphon valves have had a long history of problems and many mechanics simply remove them. Not sure what their legal liability is though when they do that because it is a USCG reg that permanently installed fuel tanks have them.
 

DaleH

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Porkchunker":3tzhuwn4 said:
Your mechanic's desire to remove the anti-siphon valve and install an in-line on/off fuel valve is not off-base. The anti-siphon valves have had a long history of problems and many mechanics simply remove them. Not sure what their legal liability is though when they do that because it is a USCG reg that permanently installed fuel tanks have them.
I believe that is for permently installed fuel tanks with inboard motors or sources of ignition. Boats with OB motors are exempt from A/S alves, but note that if your fuel line ever dips lower than the level of the top of the tank, if the line ruptures, you will will your bilge full of fuel.

Personally, I think it's a poor response from any mechanic to simply remove an A/S valve than it would be to properly correct the problem and inform the owner as to how to do it own their own.
 
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