1998 2520 MV questions

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onthewater

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Not new to Parker’s several buddies run them. Does anyone have real fuel burn numbers for a 1998 vintage 2520 MV with 1998 Yamaha 250 0X66 saltwater series 2? She does not have the fuel management setup. I took her out yesterday and she ran flawless, 4500 rpm at 28 mph on the gps. She’s running a 17 pitch stainless 3 blade. She bought it new in 98 and has 700 hours on her. The price is right, just wanna get a feel on the burn numbers with the 0X66 yammie... Thanks
 
Its been a while since i checked burn # but from what i remember seeing @ 4000rpm I'm getting 24mph against tide and 27 with tide and burning 14-16 gph... 2people, light fishing gear, 1/2 tank (60-70gal). My average is 1.6mpg. Its been a while since i recalibrated the standard horizon but thats what i get.
 
OX66 article

Good Evening everyone ! Let me fill you in on some easy ways to get better fuel economy, and smooth out the thristy 225-250 Hp OX66’s . This might seem like alot of stuff to do , but in the end you will eventually have to do this at some point . Believe me ...
From experience on these engines since 1998 , from idle up to about 1500 they like to shake the boat apart . But this is what i do to “tame the beast”

1 ) Spark plug caps (orange in color) These fail constantly. There is a spec to go by , so having a manual is helpful .
If the caps are original on the engine(s) change them as well as the spark plugs . This in itself will be a night and day difference..

2 ) oil pump linkage adjustment , again having a manual for your engine will give you a spec to adjust as needed . I would say at least 90% of these linkages are set for break in and never have been re-adjusted from day 1 , or the white plastic connector broke and someone just “eyed” it up to get the job done . By adjusting to spec the engine throughout all rpm range will burn less oil and smooth out the engine . And always use Yamalube 2M w/ring-free !

3 ) TPS / sync and link , Yamaha ussually puts yellow paint on these screws. About 75% of the time these don’t have to be touched , however if you see the paint on the screws broken or not aligning with the original mark it’s going to take the manual for you to re-adjust the hole shabang ! Please if adjusting these set screws and throttle voltages , read manual and adjust as needed and take your time.

4 ) oxygen senser service , everyone has heard a “tapping” at idle this sounds like a tired lifter on a V-8 chevy. If these aren’t cleaned and serviced at least every other year they clog up with carbon , and make the tapping noise not to mention the ECU getting a false reading . In the manual there are instructions to remove , clean, test , and re-install as needed .

5 ) fuel filters , making sure external filters are changed at least once or twice a year . The water seperator should at least be a 10 micron filter , and don’t forget the primer bulb is supposed to be mounted with the arrow facing up ! I like to check vacuum before the water seperator to see how the anti-siphon is working . I like to bearly see any vacuum in the system , personally i hate anti-siphon valves because they catch all the excess debris in the fuel tank and restrict fuel , but in certain cases due to coast guard regulations and ABYC standards you have to have them installed . I like a electric operated one so it is wide open and has no restrictions when it is activated , and closed when deactivated .

6 ) VST filter , pressure regulator filter, fuel injector cleaning/testing and the three low pressure supply fuel pumps . This is very important for proper fuel pressure and final delivery of fuel to cylinders. I like to do this all in one service ussually around 500hrs or until VST filter starts to clog (as they always do ) . The fuel injectors have little filters in them
that don’t take much to get clogged. Sending injectors to a certified shop will get you a before and after report , along with the old filters that you will see discolored and loaded with blockage . This will insure you will be getting a nice even flow of fuel at all times . On the top of the VST there is the fuel pressure regulator filter , you ussually can just clean this with carb cleaner and reuse it . Of course after it’s all together and running you can take the vacuum hose off and see if the pressure goes up and down as you put vacuum hose on and off . The manual will show you how to take apart recognize all parts and reassemble as needed as well as fuel psi spec .

7 ) Reed Valves . This is the icing on the cake !
I have been a 2 Stroke High Performance guy for over 30 years , and fiberglass reeds are the ticket for high rpm engine(s) and high hour engine(s) that have wondering compression numbers , and worn piston skirts . Even the weakest cylinders “wake up” because they are pulling fuel and air easier . What i have been using for years in these OX’s are the Boyesen power reeds , hands down satisfaction and performance guaranteed ! These reeds are dual stage so this allows fuel and air to enter easier at idle . When installing the power reeds the stock reed stop plate is discarded , this allows the second stage to open farther then the stock steel reed . I have noticed at least a 250 rpm gain on the top rpm . In certain cases you maybe able to go up 1-2 pitch sizes , or add cup in the prop to throw more water .

I hope my post helps alot of people out that have these engine(s) . Owning , reading and understanding the manual is a must
for the OX’s key to reliability and longevity Most of my engines that i have done this service / upgrade to have over 1200-2400 hrs and are still running perfectly . Fresh water flushing after each use is a must , and cooling system service every other year as recommended... Here is a picture of the reed valves , and 2 videos ... Thank you for reading , and with the boating season coming to a end for us New Englanders , this would be a perfect winter project to keep you busy and have a early spring launch with a perfect start !!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Brent":3vnqet6b said:
OX66 article

Good Evening everyone ! Let me fill you in on some easy ways to get better fuel economy, and smooth out the thristy 225-250 Hp OX66’s . This might seem like alot of stuff to do , but in the end you will eventually have to do this at some point . Believe me ...
From experience on these engines since 1998 , from idle up to about 1500 they like to shake the boat apart . But this is what i do to “tame the beast”

1 ) Spark plug caps (orange in color) These fail constantly. There is a spec to go by , so having a manual is helpful .
If the caps are original on the engine(s) change them as well as the spark plugs . This in itself will be a night and day difference..

2 ) oil pump linkage adjustment , again having a manual for your engine will give you a spec to adjust as needed . I would say at least 90% of these linkages are set for break in and never have been re-adjusted from day 1 , or the white plastic connector broke and someone just “eyed” it up to get the job done . By adjusting to spec the engine throughout all rpm range will burn less oil and smooth out the engine . And always use Yamalube 2M w/ring-free !

3 ) TPS / sync and link , Yamaha ussually puts yellow paint on these screws. About 75% of the time these don’t have to be touched , however if you see the paint on the screws broken or not aligning with the original mark it’s going to take the manual for you to re-adjust the hole shabang ! Please if adjusting these set screws and throttle voltages , read manual and adjust as needed and take your time.

4 ) oxygen senser service , everyone has heard a “tapping” at idle this sounds like a tired lifter on a V-8 chevy. If these aren’t cleaned and serviced at least every other year they clog up with carbon , and make the tapping noise not to mention the ECU getting a false reading . In the manual there are instructions to remove , clean, test , and re-install as needed .

5 ) fuel filters , making sure external filters are changed at least once or twice a year . The water seperator should at least be a 10 micron filter , and don’t forget the primer bulb is supposed to be mounted with the arrow facing up ! I like to check vacuum before the water seperator to see how the anti-siphon is working . I like to bearly see any vacuum in the system , personally i hate anti-siphon valves because they catch all the excess debris in the fuel tank and restrict fuel , but in certain cases due to coast guard regulations and ABYC standards you have to have them installed . I like a electric operated one so it is wide open and has no restrictions when it is activated , and closed when deactivated .

6 ) VST filter , pressure regulator filter, fuel injector cleaning/testing and the three low pressure supply fuel pumps . This is very important for proper fuel pressure and final delivery of fuel to cylinders. I like to do this all in one service ussually around 500hrs or until VST filter starts to clog (as they always do ) . The fuel injectors have little filters in them
that don’t take much to get clogged. Sending injectors to a certified shop will get you a before and after report , along with the old filters that you will see discolored and loaded with blockage . This will insure you will be getting a nice even flow of fuel at all times . On the top of the VST there is the fuel pressure regulator filter , you ussually can just clean this with carb cleaner and reuse it . Of course after it’s all together and running you can take the vacuum hose off and see if the pressure goes up and down as you put vacuum hose on and off . The manual will show you how to take apart recognize all parts and reassemble as needed as well as fuel psi spec .

7 ) Reed Valves . This is the icing on the cake !
I have been a 2 Stroke High Performance guy for over 30 years , and fiberglass reeds are the ticket for high rpm engine(s) and high hour engine(s) that have wondering compression numbers , and worn piston skirts . Even the weakest cylinders “wake up” because they are pulling fuel and air easier . What i have been using for years in these OX’s are the Boyesen power reeds , hands down satisfaction and performance guaranteed ! These reeds are dual stage so this allows fuel and air to enter easier at idle . When installing the power reeds the stock reed stop plate is discarded , this allows the second stage to open farther then the stock steel reed . I have noticed at least a 250 rpm gain on the top rpm . In certain cases you maybe able to go up 1-2 pitch sizes , or add cup in the prop to throw more water .

I hope my post helps alot of people out that have these engine(s) . Owning , reading and understanding the manual is a must
for the OX’s key to reliability and longevity Most of my engines that i have done this service / upgrade to have over 1200-2400 hrs and are still running perfectly . Fresh water flushing after each use is a must , and cooling system service every other year as recommended... Here is a picture of the reed valves , and 2 videos ... Thank you for reading , and with the boating season coming to a end for us New Englanders , this would be a perfect winter project to keep you busy and have a early spring launch with a perfect start !!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


THIS WAS AN EXCELLENT POST THANK YOU FOR SHARING.
 
Sensor cleaning might keep one in tool box
Here you go I wrote this up the first time I did mine.

Someone asked how this was done so I thought I would write it up while it was fresh.
Actually it was easy to remove and reassemble. It took longer to clean the sensor and sniffer tube. I am glad I decided to do it I had a some carbon build up in both sensors.

You will need a few things.
1. A new Gasket set (two gaskets per sensor)
2. A can of Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner.
3. A Oxygen sensor socket 22mm or 7/8" they measure the same. I got mine at Harbor Freight Tools for $9.00. It is a special socket with a groove cut in the side to allow the wires to exit the side of the socket while removing the sensor.
4. A 10mm socket and socket wrench.
5. A torque wrench.
6. About 6 wire ties.
7. stiff tooth brush.

1. First cut the wire ties off the bundled wires that are holding the 4 wires from the oxygen sensor.

2.Now cut the wire tie that is holding the rubber boot and wires on top of the oxygen sensor housing. You can now slide the rubber boot up the wires off of the oxygen sensor housing.

3. Unclip the two wire connectors that are attached to the 4 wires on the Oxygen Sensor leads.

4. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the Oxygen Sensor cover in place. Now carefully lift up on the cover and remove it off of the Oxygen Sensor. The area where the rubber boot was has a slot in the back so it can be removed from the sensor wires. Be careful and gentle not to damage the wires or sensor.

5. Take the Oxygen Sensor socket and carefully place it on the nut that loosens the sensor. Make sure you push the wire shield down toward the sensor. This will protect the wires from damage while loosening the sensor. Now loosen the sensor but do not remove it. The sensor is torqued to 35lbs so it will be tight. You must loosen the sensor before removing the bronze sensor mount.!!!

6. Now remove the three 10mm bolts from the bronze housing. You can now remove the bronze housing and then remove the Oxygen sensor. Set them on a clean towel.

7. If you look at where the bronze housing was on the motor block, you will see a little round tube looking thing sticking out about 1/4 of a inch. This is the sniffer tube. Gently but firmly wiggle and pull on the sniffer tube until it comes out it is one piece. There will probably be some carbon and maybe a trace or oil on the sniffer tube.

8. spray about 1" of the Combustion Chamber Cleaner into a clear glass (Not a plastic cup!!!)so you can see the liquid. Put the perforated part of the sensor in the liquid to soak. (DO NOT SUBMERGE THE SENSOR PAST THE PERFORATED BOTTOM PORTION THE THREADS SHOULD NOT BE IN THE CLEANER.) While this is soaking you can clean the bronze housing and sniffer tube by gently scraping scrubbing brushing and soaking these in another glass with cleaner. There will be some hard carbon buildup on these parts so try to get most of it off. Inside the bronze housing I used a cloth towel with cleaner wrapped around a philips head screw driver to clean out all the recessed areas and it worked well. Make sure the hole in the sniffer tube is clear of debris.

9. After the bronze housing and sniffer tube are clean dry them off with a clean towel and set them aside for now. Now take the sensor out of the cleaner and gently brush the sensor with a tooth brush there should not be much build up on the sensor itself. Most of the build up will be in the housing and the sniffer tube. Now gently dry the sensor with a towel and a little compressed air if you have a compressor. If not just let it air dry for about 45 minutes.

10. Now remove the old gaskets off the motor and look where you removed the sniffer tube. You might have to do some cleaning in the hole where it came out of. Just use a clean towel and a little cleaner and it will come clean. I used a single edge box cutter blade to remove all the gasket material that was left on the motor block.

Now you are ready to reassemble!!

1. Place the cleaned sniffer tube back into its cleaned home in the motor block so you do not forget it.

2. Screw the cleaned Oxygen Sensor finger tight into the clean sensor housing.

3. Place the large gasket for the plastic housing in place making sure the hole lines up with the bolt hole. it is a sticky gasket and will adhere to the motor block.

4. Insert the three bolts into the bronze sensor housing and place the small gasket on the bottom two bolts in the correct direction. Now line up the sensor bolts with the holes and finger tighten the bolts. I first tightened the bolts to 3.5 lbs first then retightened them each a little at a time until the specified 10lbs of torque was reached.

5. Now carefully place the Oxygen Sensor socket onto the Oxygen Sensor being careful not to damage the sensor or wires. Now torque the sensor to the specified 35lbs.

6. Carefully slide the plastic housing over the wires and back into position over the Oxygen Sensor and housing. Be careful not to damage the wires or cover gasket.

7. Place the two cover bolts in the holes and tighten them to the specified 6.5 lbs of torque.

8. Slide the rubber boot back over the top of the plastic cover and put a wire tie to hold the wires and rubber cap in place.

9. Re-connect the two wire connectors and re bundle the wires with wire ties.

You are now done!!!!! It sounds long but it is very easy to do. It took me about 1 1/2 hour to do both of my motors Oxygen Sensors and most of the time was spent cleaning the parts and letting them dry...https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-fo ... -66-a.html
 
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