2002 Parker 21se fuel tank replacement

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wetaline

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Location
Long Island,NY
I was recently told by my marine mechanic that I should replace my fuel tank next year due to major corrosion on the outside of the tank. I was pretty surprised (and upset) because I trailer my boat and it only has 200 hrs on it. I take good care of my boat and always cover it in the winter and store it with the bow up high so that the water drains right out. I've read about other Parker's who have had to replace their tank as well but I figured being my boat's not stored in the water I'd be safe. WRONG My mechanic said when the weather is good to keep the deck hatches open to circulate the air below deck.

I've read a few threads on the subject and know all about the cutting of the deck and the extensive work involved to get to the tank etc.

So my question to the group is how much can I expect to spend on this job??? Can anyone here recommend a reputable shop that does this in my area ??? Long Island,NY (suffolk county)

thanks in advance for your replies
 
Your mechanic told you correct in regards to ventilation. Sitting on a trailer or sitting in the water has no real bearing on it. Unless the bilge is wet all the time.

Temperature changes have a affect on it...This creates condensation. Just the change in temp during the day can and will create a moisture cavity where the tank sit;s in the bilge.

Couple that with bare alum that is encased in foam and that's where the problem starts.

Alum is self protecting...But.....It needs air to do it...Take away the air and there starts the problem.

Solution: New tank......Use a material that does not corrode. [*1]

Coat the tank to protect it....Coal tar Epoxy

Ventilate the bilge to allow air in there. [*2]




*1 - Plastic tanks are not nessissairly the fix. They have problems too. I've seen sending unit flanges that were warped and would not seal. They have no baffles and I have seen them split.


*2 Ventilation will only help...but may not fix the problem. What about where it makes contact with something? I've seen where the rubber isolators was the only places that corrosion occurred. Rubber has Carbon in it...Carbon is not good against alum.


With all that said.....There is ONLY 1 Way to do a full inspection of a tank.......Physically remove it from the boat and inspect it.

I know that was not done.....So with no smell of fuel leaking....How can your mechanic suggest that?
 
*2 Ventilation will only help...but may not fix the problem. What about where it makes contact with something? I've seen where the rubber isolators was the only places that corrosion occurred. Rubber has Carbon in it...Carbon is not good against alum.

I don't understand why people on this site think coal tar is a good protectant for aluminum and in the next breath say that carbon in contact with aluminum is bad. COAL TAR IS MOSTLY CARBON!! How can it be a protectant? It has a lot more carbon in in than any rubber product. You are better off coating the tank with an epoxy or urethane coating like rino-liner.
 
My boat is wet slipped, so one of the things I've done to keep the interstitial space below deck dry is to use solar powered fans set to 'exhaust'.
The fans are installed into deck plates, and I leave the deck plate over the forward bilge pump in the pilothouse open when I'm not using the boat.
Air travels from the pilothouse over the fuel tanks (my boat has 3) and exhausts at the rear of the deck.

Not sure if it is an option for you, but if it is, check the project area for details.
Several of us use this method.
 

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I bought a 99 2520 in Jan of 13. It had a wet deck and I replaced all of it along with the 174 gallon fuel tank. The tank was $1500 from Luther's wWelding in Bristol RI which I reinstalled. They did a great job made out of 3/16" alum and that price included a new sending unit if that really matters. The rest of the deck I had cut out myself for the most part but didn't want to go too far due to needing to trailer it to the glass shop which was also in Bristol RI. That was all re-done for $2100 including new gel coat on the deck. so total was $3600 all said and done. Got a decent price when I bought it so it was worth it to me. Hope this helps.
 
Megabyte":1bqkmv2m said:
My boat is wet slipped, so one of the things I've done to keep the interstitial space below deck dry is to use solar powered fans set to 'exhaust'.
The fans are installed into deck plates, and I leave the deck plate over the forward bilge pump in the pilothouse open when I'm not using the boat.
Air travels from the pilothouse over the fuel tanks (my boat has 3) and exhausts at the rear of the deck.

Not sure if it is an option for you, but if it is, check the project area for details.
Several of us use this method.

Megabyte with those exhaust fans do you have any problem with rain coming thru them?
 
Parker1817":305wqbsb said:
Megabyte with those exhaust fans do you have any problem with rain coming thru them?

Never seen any indication that they leak, even from wash water. They are made to shed water.
There is a sailboat in the slip next to me that has one mounted in the center of a Bomar hatch, and another one mounted directly on the forward deck.
Both are permanently mounted. I think if they leaked rain water, the guy wouldn't keep them.
I'll try to remember to get a photo the next time I'm at the slip.

I do remove them when I take the boat out fishing or cruising so they don't get stepped on.
I just pop them out, and replace them with blank centers.
 
I see you are on Long Island I am also. I recently bought a fuel tank from ram welding in Farmingdale they did a very nice job on it.
 
Megabyte, do you think mounting that fan on the bilge hatch on a 2120 will work. I would rather cut that and I think centering one there would be better. Also, how much are they?
 
Your tank will need replacement some time. However, if is not leaking I would wait till I got all the use out of it I could if there are no other problems with the tank other than,the corrosion on the outside. That is just me, to each his own.
 
shawnee83":9lntaw9o said:
Megabyte, do you think mounting that fan on the bilge hatch on a 2120 will work. I would rather cut that and I think centering one there would be better. Also, how much are they?

Mounting in the bilge hatch could work, but I would put a deck hatch in that bilge hatch so you could remove the fan and put in a blank hatch while fishing and underway.
I would not want to step on one of those fans.

Cost? I do not recall, tho I think I got them on Amazon.
Look for my project post. I'm sure the info is there.

Took a photo of the sailboat next to me when I was down yesterday.
If these things leaked, I doubt he would have them there.
 

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Megabyte":1kwfvg08 said:
shawnee83":1kwfvg08 said:
Megabyte, do you think mounting that fan on the bilge hatch on a 2120 will work. I would rather cut that and I think centering one there would be better. Also, how much are they?

Mounting in the bilge hatch could work, but I would put a deck hatch in that bilge hatch so you could remove the fan and put in a blank hatch while fishing and underway.
I would not want to step on one of those fans.

Cost? I do not recall, tho I think I got them on Amazon.
Look for my project post. I'm sure the info is there.

Took a photo of the sailboat next to me when I was down yesterday.
If these things leaked, I doubt he would have them there.


I looked at your installation again and I see now what you are talking about. Good point and thanks.
 
I don't understand why people on this site think coal tar is a good protectant for aluminum

And yet a LOT of the tank manufactures offer this service to Coal Tar the tanks. :)


adamsboat27Small.jpg
 
According to the MSDS, it is mostly an epoxy coating.
Only .02mg/m2 'coal tar'
So why do they call it "coal tar epoxy"?
Beats me. Maybe because it's black? :|
 
Megabyte":7endmbap said:
Parker1817":7endmbap said:
Megabyte with those exhaust fans do you have any problem with rain coming thru them?

Never seen any indication that they leak, even from wash water. They are made to shed water.

Thanks, I have a couple and will install them as soon as possible.
 
The baffles are definitely needed....they cut down on the fuel sloshing around creating too much pressure on the seams or corners. When I put mine in I did not coat it with anything at the recommendation of the fab shop. I am second guessing that now but it should last my lifetime. When I put it in he had me install poly strips on the bottom of the tank held in place with 5200 where the tank met the stringers. Seemed to make sense to me helping to prevent the rubbing.
 
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