2120 outboard mounting holes?

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

12lbpug

Active member
Joined
Dec 5, 2015
Messages
35
Reaction score
4
Location
Long Island, New York
Hello,
Wondering where you guys are at.
I have a Yamaha 4 stroke 150 and it seems low, doing a WOT test tomorrow to check the cavitation plate. I can only get 5400 out of it. Yamaha SS prop 3 blade 15M / 14.5

For the mounting holes, there are 4:
- Top ( as low as it can go )
- One down
- Two down
- Bottom ( as high as it can go )

I am at, One down.

Thank you for your input
 
I'm 150 HPDI so probably irrelevant but I'm mounted at highest position. Was at 'one down' position when I bought it which I'm 99% sure is how it came from the factory.
 
Thank you for the reply. After more than a week I thought more than one would contribute...........weak
Just ran it tonight, Cavitation plate about 1.5 maybe 2" down at WOT. Pretty sketchy checking with a broom handle.
 
12lbpug":2rr2hije said:
Thank you for the reply. After more than a week I thought more than one would contribute...........weak
Just ran it tonight, Cavitation plate about 1.5 maybe 2" down at WOT. Pretty sketchy checking with a broom handle.
My now 1 year old 2015 2120 with 200hp 4 stroke came from the factory with motor mounted in 2nd hole from top. I added a Permatrim mounted below the anti cavitation plate. This helped dramatically in controlling the plaining and trim with the motor trim. I can now use the trim tabs for just balancing the lateral trim. However The Permatrim and anti cavitation plate still ride about 1.5 to 2" below water at cruise so I think that I am going to have the dealer raise the motor all the way up at next service. My dealer has advised me against doing this as he thinks that I will experience some cavitation but I am going to try it anyway since I have read of others success on this forum.
 
I added the permatrim as well. I was advised to try rpm at WOT to see if it was propped correct. I do not know if that boat can actually run high enough in the water to get the plate on top of the water. I want to go to the bottom hole as well ( highest mount ). I had cavitation doing a hard turn while going fast, I just slow down now. I go slow most of the time anyway. That boat does not like to turn hard and it feels like the steering wheel is really straining as well. Deciding to move now or do it when I haul it. Take care
 
12lbpug":15x7pve8 said:
I added the permatrim as well. I was advised to try rpm at WOT to see if it was propped correct. I do not know if that boat can actually run high enough in the water to get the plate on top of the water. I want to go to the top hole as well. I had cavitation doing a hard turn while going fast, I just slow down now. I go slow most of the time anyway. That boat does not like to turn hard and it feels like the steering wheel is really straining as well. Deciding to move now or do it when I haul it. Take care

I've been on vacation or would have replied earlier. My F225 is all the way up and I have a Permatrim and 12x18" tabs. When I got the boat it wanted to porpose at higher RPM's. It also felt ass heavy to me so that is why I did all the mods. I think the Permatrim made the biggest difference with correcting the main issue of the porpoising and stern heavy feeling. If you are hard turning with a decent amount of throttle and you have some up trim on the motor it will cavatate on any boat. When doing hard turns I always drop the trim all down and feather the throttle entering turn then readjust trim and throttle back up coming out of the turn if needed? Any boat will cavatate if you turn hard enough and have enough throttle applied. Every boat I've ever had has done this. No offense meant on all this if you already know this stuff. Anyway, my motor is heavier than the F150 by quite a bit and I have had 1 or 2 occasions that I have considered lowering mine back down 1 hole. With a full tank at WOT going against the current with the engine trimmed for WOT I experienced a little proposing again. Only a couple of times and by trimming back down I was able to stop it. I've wondered if I dropped mine back down 1 hole it might be the sweet spot and I wouldn't have that issue show up again? So I guess my recommendation would be to raise yours 1 hole from the highest setting and see how it goes. Pic is of my cavitation plat with some trim at about 5,500 rpm and 40 mph. Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    75.1 KB · Views: 388
Thank you,
I read you opinions about the permatrim before buying one. I know its not a tab but it's a way to help the small tabs that are on the boat. I am new to the Parker but I have only experienced porposing when trimed up so I keep it down. Messing around with the boat, GPH and MPH are unchanged when cruising and RPM's dont change as well if I trim it up. Seems happiest with the outboard all the way down and keeps the bow down as well. Trimming at WOT a bit makes it happier but I am more into tunning for where I will be most of the time. Thank you for the input
 
If you are running at WOT or above 4K RPM without raising the engine trim explains why you are not getting higher WOT RPM's and your steering is so hard. You need to lift the bow and trim your engine. JMO
 
When I mentioned the steering it is when it is turned a bunch it is tough, shouldn't have mentioned it. I can get 5600 with a little trim, the Permatrim works better with speed.
Thanks for the info, too bad other 2120 owners couldn't contribute as well as you. I was hoping to be informed to make a better decision on whether to go to the third or forth hole down, it would be nice to do it once.
 
I'm in a similar boat,no pun intended. I picked up a used 2004 2120 last year and am trying to get it optimized. It has a 2004 F 150 mounted in the second hole from the top(second lowest setting),which I believe is where the factory puts it. The boat came rigged with a Yamaha stainless 14 1/4 X 16 prop. Before dropping it in the water this season I put a permatrim on, most people love them ,I came across a nice used one at the right price so I said what the hell. My initial impression was that the boat felt sluggish. It would only reach 5000RPM at WOT at about 32MPH. No purposing. Last week I
re-propped switching to a Yamaha black 13 3/4 X 17 M2 Stainless. RPMs are at 5800 WOT boat feels better but cruising RPMS shifted from 3400 to 4200. I don't run WOT often and would prefer keeping the RPMs down in the motors sweet spot and for better fuel economy. So Mabey I need to put the old prop back on and raise the motor?
This weekend I'm hoping to raise the motor,it's a PITA for me since I'll have to pull the boat using a friends truck. So I'm debating how high to raise it? All the way or just one hole which equates to 3/4"?
I personally feel a 4blade prop is what this ass heavy boat needs. I had one on my Jones Brothers CC and loved it. Gotta wait for the funds.

Any input would be appreciated

Thanks
Jerry
 
I'll make my question clearer, what comes first,motor height or prop?
I'm guessing motor height.
 
In2. The Permatrim should not have lowered your WOT RPM's, IMO. You mentioned that you purchased a used one so I was wondering if you have the M9 model? They are engine specific somewhat. Should have mounted on top of the cav plate. Anyway, I guess engine height would be first. I think my opinion on height position is not ideal as I have the 225 and the bigger tabs so one of the guys with the 150 would be better. I don't think you could go wrong with the next to the highest position though.
 
shawnee83":bq4lzbjg said:
In2. The Permatrim should not have lowered your WOT RPM's, IMO. You mentioned that you purchased a used one so I was wondering if you have the M9 model? They are engine specific somewhat. Should have mounted on top of the cav plate. Anyway, I guess engine height would be first. I think my opinion on height position is not ideal as I have the 225 and the bigger tabs so one of the guys with the 150 would be better. I don't think you could go wrong with the next to the highest position though.

No Im not sure what effect the Permatrim had since I put it on after I received the boat during the off season. I thick the previous owner wasent aware the motor was too low and he possibly wasent propped optimally since the RPMs were only around 5000. Im going to raise it all the way ,the full 2 holes(1.5") and see what happens. Hopefully it wont result in raising my RPMs.
Ps the Permatrim is the M9 model and is mounted oon top of the cavitation plate as instructed.

In a perfect world I think the order of mods should be,
1.find the optimal motor height
2.prop
3.Permatrim
4.trim tabs

There are maby variables and differences that effect what is the best setup, even between two 2120s with the same motor. So my advice would be research and take your findings as guidelines not as fact.
 
In2Deep,
looking forward to hear your results.
My prop is a 15M/14.5. Just edited my original post which said it was a 14M.
The guy I bought from didn't touch a thing so that's the way White Water Marine sold it.
If you need a hand with raising let me know.
 
Update,
I had a small few hour window today when I finished work and I could Borrow my dads jeep to pull the boat and raise the motor. Of coarse get to the ramp and it's dead low tide! Had to wait till 7:30 till we had enough watch to get the boat on the trailer. Now I had about an hour of daylight. So loosened the bolts jacked up the motor after putting a few safety straps across it to the rear tow rings. It's now dark!Some wiggling of the motor eventually broke the sealant (which I believe was 5200!)freeing the motor bracket from the transom,I then raised the motor to the bottom hole,its highest position! It wasent too bad, would have been much easier if I could have seen what I was doing.
Anyway I dropped the boat back in and secured her at the bulkhead. Unfortunately I don't think I'll be getting back on her till next weekend. I'm curious to see how this changes how the boat performs.
I'll update as soon as I have some info.
 
Ok,1/2 tank fuel,12-15 knot breeze with 2' chop,2 people and regular fishing gear. Gets on plane by 3800 rpm @ 16 mph. WOT @ 5300 rpm @ 33mph. Factory testing WOT was stated to be 5800rpm @ 39 mph.
With the motor all the way up on the transom I can still trim the motor a decent amount. I noticed the trim tab anode by the prop under the cavitation plate was missing. The boat always requires me to trim the bow down on the port side? Even when I'm alone. Boat is weighted pretty evenly. Lists to the port side slightly ,like most do at rest.
Opinions?
 
Glad to hear your update and that you can still utilize the trim when the motor is raised all the way up.
So it looks like you picked up 300 RPM and 1 MPH from past posts. I know you were messing with props.
Does it ride/handle better?
Are you leaving it up?
Thanks for the news
 
Yes I'll be leaving the motor mounted on the highest setting on the transom. Boat planes off well,handles better and just feels and sounds better. The prop is more prone to slip in turns but that's expected.
I'd like to get closer to the factory rpms since that's where the power and for this motor is.
 
Back
Top