2520 w/ 250 4 stroke?

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Striperswiper

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Does anyone have a 2520 mod v with a 250 Yamaha or SUzuki 4 stroke?

I plan to repower and want a performance report.

Mainly interested in off the line acceleration, low rpm planing problems or other performance issues.

Have you had any problems with the engine?
 
I have 2520SL with the Yamaha F250 (4-stroke) and performance is great no problems with the motor @ 450hrs. and fairly easy to maintain.

• Started with the Yamaha black painted stainless prop 15X17P
Cruise 4200rpms = 25mph and 2.5mpg, 5900rpm WOT @ 40mph
A good prop but not much stern lift would cavitate easy in sharp turns and drop off plane unpredictably if going slow.

• Changed to the Yamaha polished SS series prop 15.5X17P
Cruise 4200rpms = 28mph and 2.5mpg, 5700-5800 WOT @ 40mph
I am much happier with this prop as it bites on all turns, has good stern lift, very predictable and better cruise performance. Not reaching the max 6000rpms but not bogging at all either. Quicker plane time and looks good too :wink:


Overall I am very satisfied with the Yamaha F250 and would highly recommend it on this boat. It’s a good match of power and weight and dependability. Not as familiar with the Zuke but there is a few people here with them and I’m sure they will chime in.
 
Thanks for the information.

Do you think 250 is enough or would a 300 be better?

Any quirky things with the engine?

If you repowered how much did it cost if you don't mind me asking?
 
250 is fine for me. Some here have the 2-sroke Yamaha 300 and the 4-stroke Zuke 300 and could answer that better. I think the Yamaha is a better motor even though it is more money. I would look for a leftover 2008 Yamaha F250 with cable controls to save some money as the new F250 is drive by wire and adds to the price. If you add a rear station with the drive by wire the cost will be double than a cable system.
 
I am actually in the process right now of having a new fly by wire f250 put on my 2520. With the second station and all new command link gauges
i will have roughly 18500$ in it. I would agree with maxed out i think this would be a better way to go. there are so many Yamaha dealers around to do warranty work and get parts. I looked in the suzuki but could not find a lot of local dealers here in maryland.
 
MaxOut":j39417gd said:
I have 2520SL with the Yamaha F250 (4-stroke) and performance is great no problems with the motor @ 450hrs. and fairly easy to maintain.

• Started with the Yamaha black painted stainless prop 15X17P
Cruise 4200rpms = 25mph and 2.5mpg, 5900rpm WOT @ 40mph
A good prop but not much stern lift would cavitate easy in sharp turns and drop off plane unpredictably if going slow.

• Changed to the Yamaha polished SS series prop 15.5X17P
Cruise 4200rpms = 28mph and 2.5mpg, 5700-5800 WOT @ 40mph
I am much happier with this prop as it bites on all turns, has good stern lift, very predictable and better cruise performance. Not reaching the max 6000rpms but not bogging at all either. Quicker plane time and looks good too :wink:


Overall I am very satisfied with the Yamaha F250 and would highly recommend it on this boat. It’s a good match of power and weight and dependability. Not as familiar with the Zuke but there is a few people here with them and I’m sure they will chime in.

Are you sure about the 4200 rpm's? I have the same boat, both the stock prop and the current 15 1/2" x 17p mirage plus I am running...lowest I can keep the boat on plane is with no gear, light fuel and one possibly 2 people at 4300 rpm's...2.3- 2.4mpg- that's in the harbor on glass. Real world economy and cruise is between 4500- 4700 rpms, 25 mph- 28mph and 1.9mpg with 4 guys, bait tank, gear and fuel. I'm thinking about going to a 4 blade to stay on plane at lower rpm, but really like current prop once I'm up.
 
I cruise at 4200rpm all the time at right between 2.3-2.5mpg and stays on plane good. That’s with 3/4 tank of fuel, 3 people and only gear is 150qt cooler in the center of the rear deck loaded with ice. Keep in mind this is fairly flat water and a head sea will require more rpms to maintain.

Is your motor all the way down? What is your top speed and rpm's? Do you use your trim tabs? I do not, I run with the motor trimmed up 3 ticks and it takes a little more power to get up on plane but once I am up I back it off to 4200 and cruise at 24mph-26mph depending on wind and sea conditions. 4800rpms yields approx 30mph not sure about economy @ 4800rpms but I think its around 2.2-2.0mpg.

This fuel economy #'s are all based on the command link gauges and speed is SOG from GPS. I have never verified the command link system but seem fairly accurate.
 
I do not use the tabs when it's flat out, trim is at 4 bars and the motor is at the seond hole from the top.
 
My motor is in the same position. What is your top speed - RPM's? My dealer suggesed never to run the motor higher than 3 ticks on the trim gauge. You made be dropping off plane because the nose is too high? Do you have a rear station? I can't remenber? the extra weigt forward would also help keep the bow down? The Yamaha SS prop has allot of stern lift and a serious cup.
 
MaxOut":18y66feu said:
My motor is in the same position. What is your top speed - RPM's? My dealer suggesed never to run the motor higher than 3 ticks on the trim gauge. You made be dropping off plane because the nose is too high? Do you have a rear station? I can't remenber? the extra weigt forward would also help keep the bow down? The Yamaha SS prop has allot of stern lift and a serious cup.

5800 rpm's in flat conditions and 40-41mph. When you say 3 ticks, do you mean 3 bars showing on the guages? I don't have a second station.
 
Both the Yamaha and Zuke are bulletproof motors. You will find the Zuke has a ton more torque.

I ran into a charter guy this summer on MV, he had 4000 hours on his yammie 4stroke and said its never been to a mechanic.

Oil change (easy), water pumps, filters and grease.... pretty easy. I dont think anybody is getting valve jobs on their auto every 500 hours..

My zuke cost me about 15,500 with prop guages, controlls etc.

Also, save yourself some money. Completely remove the wiring harness, guages, everything except the bolts if you are having a dealer do it. Why pay 100.00/hour for somebody to take out the old stuff.
 
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