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Adding a windlass to a 2320?

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96TL

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Hey guys. Has anyone added a windlass to their Parker? Pulling the anchor by hand is getting old fast, especially when it takes me 3 tries to anchor over a specific spot. :oops:

Anyway, I was looking into getting a windlass from these guys. I hear they're bulletproof, but they're expensive and they look a little bulky.

http://ezanchorpuller.com/

Any recommendations? Why kind of windlass are you using? Any problems? I'm currently using a 16.5# Bruce anchor, 200' of 1/2 rode, and 15' of 1/4" chain.


Thanks!

Dom
 

MacFern

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I have the EZ Anchor Puller on my 2320 and it works great. Just push a button up or down - that's it.
 

96TL

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Macfern, do you have any pics of the unit installed? You can post them here of email me at mim019@msn.com.

Also, I know this unit isn't freefall. Do you anchor over any wrecks?

Thanks!

Dom 8)
 

MacFern

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I do not have any photos at the moment, but will take a few and post some in the next day or so. As for my anchoring experiences I have not had the oppertunity to fish too many wrecks yet. I am still trying to figure all that out. Mainly I been spending my time on the boat with my kids, fishing and boating relatively close to shore. The kids are young, and the ability to anchor from inside the pilothouse has been great.
 

Megabyte

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Almost all of the charter boats in my area use the ezanchorpuller just like the one you see on Macfern's boat.
That would be enough to convince me.

The Horizon (and similar) have a much lower profile and does store the rode in your anchor locker. But from talking to folks that have them, if you go that route, opt for the horizintal capstan rather than the vertical. Less chance of hockles jamming it.

But... what do I know? I pull mine by hand. :oops:
 

Porkchunker

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I have the factory installed horizontal capstain with a chain/rope gypsy. Rode dumps into the anchor locker. Have rarely had a binding, it even handles my own chain to rope splice.

I run the rode for two years, then swap it end for end and remake the chain to rope splice.

At the end of each season, I rise the rode with fresh water while it is in the locker to get the salt out of it. Then I pull the rode completely out, lay it out on a local football/soccer field and make sure it is not twisted, then roll it into a 24" square cardboard shipping box. Have never soaked it in "Downy" or any other fabric softener. Over on THT, the recommendation is for the firmer/stiffer rope rather than the soft kind. Apparently the lower quality rope is softer and has a tendency to jam in the gypsies. The higher quality rope is stiffer and doesn't bind.

The EZpuller is what all the charter/head boats run up here in the Ches. Bay. I assume they do that because it is so easy to maintain the rode on a spool rather than in the coils in a locker. But they are big and a bit ugly.
 

johnsw

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I've been thinking about adding a windlass to my 2120DVSC during the off season. (Either windlass or radar? I'd probably use the windlass more.) I'd guess the windlass bolts go through the pulpit and deck, and fasten from within the anchor locker. What's in between the pupit and the deck? Does that area need to be beefed up in anyway to support the windlass and the strain? Or is the pulpit strong enough to support the windlass pull so that good backing from within the anchor locker is all that's needed?

John S.
 

Ranger Tim

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I have the factory install and it is worth its weight in platinum. The pulpit does not need to be reinforced and yes, the Horizon I have is mounted directly on it. I have had nothing but great service/performance from this rig and highly recommend it to my friends. The rode has never jammed but there can be an occasional hesitation during the rode to chain transition. This is but a brief hiccup, but I am going to re-splice the rode onto the chain as it seems to wear more at that point.

Be sure to use the motion of the boat to loosen the anchor from the seafloor instead of trying to pull it up with pressure from the windlass alone. Many people swear by the free fall windlass but I don't have any difficulties with the controlled drop. I have always preferred to control the descent in order to keep any tangles from interfereing with a good set.

The worst aspect of using a windlass is the noise. It will wake the dead.

I'm going to go out and take a few shots of the install and post them for those who are interested.
 

Ranger Tim

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Here's a few shots of my install:

In the shot from inside the anchor locker A) pulpit bolts, B) Windlass bolts, C) Windlass Wiring, D) Rode hole, E) Cleat bolts, F) Running Light Wiring.

In the pic of the dash wiring A) is the windlass switch, and B) is the windlass circuit breaker.
 

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96TL

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Thanks for the pics guys. For some reason I didn't get an email notification to this thread and almost forgot about it.

I'm leaning towards the EZ Anchor Puller (regardless of looks). It's the only windlass that you never have to go to the bow. You don't need to cleat off the rope when you're at anchor or underway. It never tangles up. And it's bulletproof from what I've heard.

Macfern, which model number do you have? Also, did you have the cover painted or sprayed with gel coat? It looks like it matches the Parker gel coat perfectly. From the video they sent me, the cover looks pure white. :?:

Dom
 

Ranger Tim

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Dom,

I do not cleat the anchor unless we're overnighting in heavy wind. Whenever I drop I simply retreive for a brief instant and this locks the line in place. I do secure the anchor to the pulpit for trailering and disconnect the circuit breaker whenever i don't wish to operate the windlass.

Good luck with the brand you choose. A windlass is a wonderful thing!
 

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