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Additional deck cleat

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BuddahB

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Has anyone installed or thought about adding an additional deck cleat towards the aft of their boat? It seems at times, especially when pulling into a fueling dock that an additonal top mounted cleat would be better than having to deal with the Hawse Pipe towards the aft...

In doing so, what would be the best way to reinforce the underside of the gunnel in that area? It seems too thin to just attach a 10" cleat to it. Would a chunk of 1/2 inch Starboard underneath be sufficient in adding thickness to the installation? Slap it in there with some 5200 with through bolts and nylon lock nuts.... Your thoughts. Thanks in advance everyone...
 

DaleH

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10" cleat ... what are you trying to hold :idea: ? FWIW cleats are sized by the line you use and any book like Chapmans recommends 3/8" line for boats exceeding 25' ... and yet most of us, don't know why, run 1/2" dock lines and probably single braid at that. Maybe we just prefer the feel of the heavier yet softer line in our hands ... :?: ? As I too use a 1/2" single-braid line for my mid-cleat line when I tie up to the dock, as I normally use just 1-line for 95% of my short-term docking efforts, 5-10 minutes to fuel, add gear, and go ... you control the middle of the boat - you control the boat. For any overnights tied to pilings, docks, or when rafting up ... and I use 3/8" 3-strand nylon - see below - for "why?".

You didn't ask, but just one of my boating pet peeves that I'll share (not accusing you of it BTW) but ... most people forget that some of the line's purpose is to provide stretch as a shock absorber. Larger lines or even single-braid lines (versus 3-strand nylon) requires more load to stretch, and as such, can create an excess loading on your boat's hull and hardware. Imagine what it would be like to go bungee jumping with a steel cable :shock: ... that's what over-lining does to a boat.

I would think that a 6" pop-up cleat mounted fore or aft of the hawse pipe would be trick! Accon models are only $50 here, see this link. Backing hardware is included. But in regards to backup plates, 5200 doesn't bond to starboard and I personally would prefer a back-up plate to bond with the frp. But whereas this would NOT be for towing or tying off in during a storm, sure ... you could use starboard. I best prefer plywood glassed to the underside of the hull, but ... that's a project unto itself.

 

BuddahB

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Yeah Dale, that looks like the way to go. When I said the 10" cleat, I was just thinking of matching the one that is foward on my 25SE. It looks like a harder install for the pop-up, but in the long run probably better. When fishing, it's out of the way. Thanks for your respone...

BTW: Took your advice on the Stilletto 17 pitch prop. It has a 141/4 diam. I believe. I hit 48 MPH with a single 225 on my boat on a flat Barnegat Bay the other day. 1/2 tank of fuel and just me on the boat... GPS reading. The paddle wheel is a good 10 miles an hour off at high speeds...
 

Megabyte

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I would think that a piece of starboard or aluminum plate could be used as backing plate material...

FWIW - The factory OEM backing material used behind my deck cleats is fiberglass. Take a look at the photo below which shows the underside of my stbd washboard.

Look in the lower left corner of the photo (directly above the black 5gal bucket) and you will see the solid fiberglass backing plate, and 4 acorn nuts used to back up the mid-ship cleats.



Very strong... but still able to conform to the irregular washboard surface.
 

jeffnick

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We put the starboard between the cleat and deck because some of the locks and marinas have >1/2" lines and this makes it easier to wrap the cleat. We don't fish, so height of the cleat isn't an issue.


Cheapest stainless hardware we've found here:
http://store.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststcl3.html
Some of it a little rough around the edges, but the cleats are holding up well and match the Parker cleats. They also carry pull-ups.

The best thing for backup plates is plywood with large heavy washers under the nuts because the plywood will conform to the irregularities rather than point load, but I often do use starboard 'cause it's impervious, easy and handy.

If you use 5200 and only snug the fitting until the 5200 sets up, then firm up the fasteners, you'll get all the seal you need even if the 5200 doesn't stick to the starboard.
 

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