Airman Transducers Placement

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TheOtherLine

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The install instructions on the Airman I was interested in says it can only be mounted on fiberglass. I remember seeing a post somewhere where someone said that the small square "pad" in the bilge is actually fiberglass over wood then glass again. Is this correct or did I misread the post. Also, if the pad is wood, is there any reason I can't mount it on one side of the "pad" or the other? I have a 2520xl.
 
I suppose you're looking at a "shoot thru". If so, they don't work on cored material (the fiberglass hull, wood, then more fiberglass would form a "core" produce.

If you haven't bought, why not an Airmar tilted element? Easy to install, work great, no loss shooting thru fiberglass.
 
FishFactory":3hm2ns5t said:
why not an Airmar tilted element? Easy to install, work great, no loss shooting thru fiberglass.

I thought they were all tilted elements. Do you have a specific model in mind?
 
The Airmar 'tilted element' transducer is a through-hull, not a shoot thru.
Mine is mounted in solid glass next to the bilge pump mounting pad.

Image-DD7D6FE00D5C11DC.jpg
 
Megabyte":b9xqhv1b said:
The Airmar 'tilted element' transducer is a through-hull, not a shoot thru.
Mine is mounted in solid glass next to the bilge pump mounting pad.

Image-DD7D6FE00D5C11DC.jpg


AirMar also makes non-tilted element transducers that look very similar to what you show in that pix. I am planning to get one for my new boat.
 
If the Airmar transducer is mounted thru the hull on some degree (usually 12-24) angle, it would shoot off to one side and be generally worthless. The Tilted Element Airmar allows for hull angle and shoots pretty much straight down.

Some transducers mount inside the hull. Hence, "Shoot thru" as in shoot thru the fiberglass. It is usually mounted on a fiberglass fairing block (or in mineral oil). At any rate, it too must be mounted level and not on angle of hull.


Is everyone on the same page? :D
 
Don't mount the transducer on that flat pad. Mount it to one side. The flat pad is plywood glassed over that has a small gap underneath it. Had to replace it on a 2120SC as it was poorly glassed in and the wood was ozing brown goo.

Ray
 
rplas48":b68fgpgo said:
Don't mount the transducer on that flat pad. Mount it to one side. The flat pad is plywood glassed over that has a small gap underneath it. Had to replace it on a 2120SC as it was poorly glassed in and the wood was ozing brown goo.

Ray


I'm planning on cutting through the pad and then using a larger hole saw to enlarge the plywood part of the circle so that the transducer punches through the bottom (literally), and the plywood is cut back an inch or so. Then I will epoxy the edges of the plywood to seal it.

Shouldn't that "do" it on a 2100CC?
 
hakr":35rq18jh said:
rplas48":35rq18jh said:
Don't mount the transducer on that flat pad. Mount it to one side. The flat pad is plywood glassed over that has a small gap underneath it. Had to replace it on a 2120SC as it was poorly glassed in and the wood was ozing brown goo.

Ray


I'm planning on cutting through the pad and then using a larger hole saw to enlarge the plywood part of the circle so that the transducer punches through the bottom (literally), and the plywood is cut back an inch or so. Then I will epoxy the edges of the plywood to seal it.

Shouldn't that "do" it on a 2100CC?


Putting an obstruction to water flow directly in front of motor lower unit will guarentee...

a-prop will cavitate at all speeds
b-motor will overheat
c-you will have a large hole in center of keel to fill in.

Get an Airmar Tilted and install exactly as in the Mega Pic example.
 
ScoopsAhoy":2ozupm8s said:
I'm confused. Megabytes transducer appears to be a through hull. Am I wrong?

You are correct. It is a through-hull transducer.
Is that the type you were looking for, or were you looking for a shoot-through transducer?
 
Mega, is that in hull shoot thru a single frequency transducer?

"thumbs up" on BOE
 
Not sure... I was trolling the BOE website looking for a shoot-thru for Scoops and discovered that one.

Looks pretty cool. Angle is adjustable... Looks like you bond the housing to the hull, fill it with mineral oil, drop the ducer in, and screw the cap on.

I have no experience with it tho... that's why I suggested speaking with Jim. He is the 'gadget guy' in the know about such things. 8)
 
I put one of those shoots thru hull, oil filled jobs in a 29' Sundancer using a GSD 20 displaying on a Garmin 2210. Actually a pretty easy install and it worked great down to about 4' of water.

I wanted something that worked in shallower water 'cause we like to cruise/explore up shallow rivers/creeks. I purchased a GSD 21 with a dual frequency transom mount 'ducer displaying on my Garmin 478. This unit works down to about 1' (below 'ducer) and never loses the bottom even at speeds to 40mph.

I also have a 2nd, cheapie sounder that doesn't work so well in deep water (I think it gets confused with the Garmin signals) but is always dependable below 60 feet. I set this alarm to 15', and the GSD 21 to 5'. This way I can be cruising madly about until the 15' alarm goes off, then slow down and continue up into shallow water without resetting the alarm...but then again, you guys are probably looking for fish, not necessarily the bottom.
 
I out a shoot though on my 23se and it works really well.
there is a post somewhere here as to where I placed it.
It rocks and there are no additional holes in my hull. I added a speed and temp sensor off the transom.
PM if you have any ??'s I might be able to help a bit.
 
I am confused with this thread if we are talking about a shoot through the hull or a through hull installation. In either case I would not cut through the plywood pad as you still have the bottom "V" to contend with. If shoot through the hull get the airmar transducer which allows for adjustment for the "V"and mount it to the side of the pad which will allow you room to properly mount the adjustable ring. Mine works in less than 2 feet of water as well as at speed.

If through hull you will risk motor problems as previously noted as well as to flair out for the "V.

Ray
 
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