Anchor Release Trick

[BuddahB]

I remember seeing a post somewhere that you can secure your anchor chain to the front hole of the anchor, then run it along the shaft and secure the rear of the anchor to the chain using zip ties as a safety measure in case the anchor gets stuck on retreival. The rear ties are supposed to break loose and provide a different point of attack freeing the stuck anchor. Question is, how big are are these zip ties and how many are used or is it a trial and error kind of thing. I have a 14 pound Delta fast set. :roll:

 

[Devilfish]

I've used some heavy wire (like the handle on a 5 gallon bucket) with a couple of twists to do exactly what you describe. I first saw this method on wreck anchors used when I was in Florida. It works. I've gotten out of a rock pile and off a wreck this way.

 

[Megabyte]

If you anchor in areas that include rocks, reefs, wrecks, or other items that can snag and hold an anchor, attaching the clevis to the head of your anchor might be a good idea.

The idea is that you attach the clevis to the eye at the head of the anchor, then run the chain back to the eye in the end of the shank and attach it with some zip-ties to create a "break-away" ability.

If the anchor gets stuck, you can cleat off the anchor line and use the motor to move forward on the line... When the force on the line exceeds the breaking strength of the zip-ties, they break.
That leaves the anchor line attached to the fluke end of the anchor, effectively reversing direction and pulling it out backwards.

If I were doing this, I'd put some 100 to 120# cable ties on and give it a go.
http://www.buycableties.com/catalog/?pid=40
Use 4 ties to start and see how that works, keeping a lot more on hand for 'repairs' when you need it (because you probably will).

Unless you have the ability to intentionally hang up your anchor and test it, trial-and-error are about the only way you will know how many zip-ties are strong enough to hold your boat in bumpy seas, but also weak enough to break and release it if you get stuck.

Hope this helps.

 

[TheOtherLine]

The idea is that you attach the clevis to the eye at the head of the anchor, then run the chain back to the eye in the end of the shank and attach it with some zip-ties to create a "break-away" ability.

Hope this helps.

Anyone have a good pic of that setup? Will it work if anchor is on a pulpit with windlass?

 

[TopShot25]

You can also carry an extra shackle so when your anchoring for the night, in bad weather, or anytime you deem necessary, you can put the shackle through the eye of the shank and the chain. Then you’re rock solid. From what I understand most of the guys out here on the west coast use stainless wire. I don’t believe very heavy wire either. They just adjust by how many wraps they use, trial and error.

One very important point, at least from what I’ve been told, is to have a little slack in the chain between the two points of the anchor. If there is little or no slack when pulling hard to pop the zip tie or wire it won’t be consistent and might be more then you bargained for. You need the slack so you can just pull straight and pop the tie.

Haven’t tried it yet, that’s just what I’ve been told by a friend that uses real big zip ties.

 

[BuddahB]

That's the way mine is basically. Plow hanging on a bow roller. Hopefully getting stuck won't happen but it's nice to be prepared if it does. Thanks. :lol:

 

[Megabyte]

Anyone have a good pic of that setup? Will it work if anchor is on a pulpit with windlass?

No photo, as I don't have mine rigged that way... but I see no reason that it wouldn't work on a pulpit with a windlass.

 

[mildew2]

I use this set-up with my pulpit and windless. But I only use this type rig on my wreck anchor. I've never had any reason to use it on my danforth.