Are 18x9 bennett tabs too big for 1801?

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Pescadorrr

Active member
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
29
Reaction score
3
Hey parker people. Just got a parker 1801. Looking to put tabs on her. I spoke to a gentleman at bennett and he recommended the 18x9 tabs. After reading several threads in this forum, it looks like most guys are running the 12x9 tabs. Which do you guys recommend? What are some disadvantages with putting the 18x9 tabs on a 18' boat?

I am also undecided between the euro switch and the EIC switch with lights that indicate position and also have auto retract.

I am reluctant to install them myself. Is it easy or should I spend the money and have a pro do it?

Thanks
 
I have a 21se with lenco 18x9 and I think its a bit overkill for me, although I never have to put them down more than 1/3 of the total way, they are very responsive. just my opinion.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2013-05-21 at 8.09.50 AM.jpg.png
    Screen Shot 2013-05-21 at 8.09.50 AM.jpg.png
    315 KB · Views: 294
I've never known the folks at Bennett to steer you wrong.
Indicator lights are a must. Self retract was more than I wanted to spend and i never missed it.
 
I here people use the term overkill. I guess what I really want to know is how this hurts the ride or the boat. What would be the disadvantage of the bigger 18x9 tabs over the smaller 12x9 tabs?

How hard is installation? How do you access under the deck an inside the transom for installation?
 
Only disadvantage would be when in a following sea. But then they should be UP anyway, so personally I see more advantages. All tabs work by creating lift and whereas 'drag' is a by-product of lift, your rig will be more efficient (fuel MPG) and responsive w/ the biggers. That said, I do think even the 12" ones would be fine.

Each install is unique and I am not familiar w/ your model, so I can't comment ... as I don't want to steer you wrong.
 
DaleH":394uoi8m said:
Only disadvantage would be when in a following sea. But then they should be UP anyway, so personally I see more advantages. All tabs work by creating lift and whereas 'drag' is a by-product of lift, your rig will be more efficient (fuel MPG) and responsive w/ the biggers. That said, I do think even the 12" ones would be fine.

Each install is unique and I am not familiar w/ your model, so I can't comment ... as I don't want to steer you wrong.

Dale is absolutely correct.
Larger tabs will make any boat more responsive, so long as you have the room to mount them.
Many of us have installed 24x9's on our 2520 SC's and one member I'm aware of used 30x9's.
As he said, ALWAYS retract your tabs when in a following sea, especially when running an inlet.

Cannot comment on the 18's transom either as I've never owned one.
Installation can be a DIY project if you are handy and follow the installation steps.
If you search in the 'Projects' or the 'Tabs' sections you will likely find installation tips along with photos.
Making sure you protect the core through the use of epoxy and a proper sealant are the key ingredients to a successful job.

FWIW... auto retract is a good thing to have if you trailer. It won't let you forget to fully retract the tabs prior to loading.
 
My Bennetts were smaller and didn't go on a Parker, but the installation is still pretty much the same.




Measure


I didn't want to have the fastener holes go all the way through, so I made a block that not only limited the depth, but also was a guide for a vertical hole.






Fill the chamfered holes with sealer. Since these are blind holes, I like to fill them up from the blind end with a syringe so I know there's no air pockets.


Pull the hose through. I used a sleeve to keep the tubing from running along the not quite dry sealant.


Coat the hinge with sealant and install.


The blades are attached first, but there's nothing really tricky there. This pic shows how I measured to be sure the tab would be the proper distance above the bottom of the boat when fully retracted.




Of course you also need to install the pump and wiring, but for me the hardest part was putting all those holes in the transom...and especially wondering where that tubing would come out inside the boat. This was the first hole I drilled, as a pilot to see if the tubing would be accessible inside the transom.
 
Thanks guys. Keep the advice coming!

My buddy who would be doing the install has a hard time seeing how he could get his hands under the deck on the inside of the transom to do the work. Any more advice or experience with this is much appreciated!

Thanks!
 
You don't really need to get your hand at the hole inside the transom. You can use a fish tape to pull the tubing and wiring through...as long as you know there's clearance. In my case, there was a block of positive floatation foam very near the hole, which could have complicated the installation.

If you intend to use the position indicator, get it before the installation...it uses a different cylinder part and requires another through hole for wires.
 
NICE documented install JeffNick! It's posts like that, that make CP what it is ... The on-line Parker's Owners Manual!
 
FWIW... auto retract is a good thing to have if you trailer. It won't let you forget to fully retract the tabs prior to loading.

And also if you drystack and they pick the boat up with a forklift.
 
How useful is the position indicator?
I have a feeling that I would do all my adjustments just by feel and perhaps will never look at the light indicator. The auto retract seems good but perhaps also not necessary..

Thanks for all the input guys!!
 
My original install was without the indicator. It wasn't long before I wanted to know where the tabs were. WHY?

When the boat is doing something that you want to correct like pounding or listing or not jumping out of the hole, the first thing you ask yourself is 'where are the tabs now?' 'cause maybe something else isn't right. And if you're in a following sea (especially running an inlet) you want to KNOW they are up -- holding the button down for 10 seconds just didn't cut it for me. Also, if you find a place for them that you like, it's easy to put them there ahead of time instead of messing with the buttons until you think you've got it right.

And like I mentioned, if you decide to put the indicators on later, you're gonna have to pull the actuators off, change part of them out and put another hole in the transom for the wires.

My boat was kept on the trailer and the bunks didn't interfere with the tabs, so the auto up feature was never missed.
 
Back
Top