Best way to attach rod holders to outside 2520XL Transom?

[got_em_on]

Had a pair or rod holders made up to attach to the outside of the transom on a 2520XL with closed transom and fishbox. Rod holders would be used when drifting for fluke and also as a grabrail when climbing up swim ladder. Would not be used for trolling or under high stress.

There is no access to inside of transom since the fish box is there so I cannot through bolt. Cannot remove fishbox either in order to through bolt.

Planned on using 2 inch wood screws and some 4200 to attach to the transom. Had everything lined up, drilled first hole, got 1/2 inch in then the drill bit slipped right in. After further investigation :roll: , turns out the transom is not thick all the way up-it drops down to 1/2 inch about 3 inches above where engine bracket mounts to hull.

So based on my lack of proper planning I am now thinking about the following:

Mount a piece of starboard to transom using screws and some sort of adhesive. Normally, I would use 3m 5200, but it sounds like that will not bond well to starboard.

Any thoughts on what type of adhesive to use or does anyone have experience with 5200/4200 and Starboard?

Thanks

 

[DaleH]

I'd put backing plates and would use Togglers, which are a marine-specific SS fastener that works like a toggle boat, but made for boat use.

 

[grouperjim]

That's interesting about the transom thickness on the 2520. On my 2320 (2006), the transom thickness where the rigging tube from the engine comes through is still very thick (probably 2-2.5 inches).

I installed a couple of "outside the transom" rod holders (port/stbd) last year. Got tired of rigged sabiki rods being in the boat and tangling with people/gear. In those rod holders I will also run with heavy spinning rods and occasionally a flag on holidays.

Seeing that the transom eyebolts on my boat are roughly the same height as the area of my install I assumed it maintained a decent thickness up higher on the transom. I see that your transom eyebolts are lower than mine which correlates with the transom thickness you observed.

FWIW I installed the rod holders in the same fashion as my trim tabs which was with 2 inch SS screws and a dab of 5200. Solid as can be and no problems in rough seas to date.

 

[got_em_on]

I see what you mean about the eye bolts. My transom thickness drops down to 1/2" about an inch and a half above the eyebolt.

Going to install 2, 4" waterproof inspection plates in the fish box which will hopefully provide access to the transom where the bolts will come through. Then through bolt the rod holders on.

Will not have time to do it for a week or so and am hoping it will solve the problem. Keeping my fingers crossed

 

[got_em_on]

Here is what we wound up doing.

Using a 4 1/2" hole saw we made 2 holes in the transom fish box for each set of rod holders. This gave us access to the transom so we can thru bolt the rodholders on. It was good to see that Parker had about 1" of foam insulation around the entire fish box.

Used 4" inspection ports to close up the holes after we were finished. These should be water tight and are the same type that are in the deck.

 

[grouperjim]

Nice!

 

[miky2884]

Nice Job!! Looks like a clean install!

How come you didn't put 3 rod holders on it? Just curious looks like you had the space

 

[got_em_on]

You are paying attention to detail.

We were looking for extra rod holders and a grabrail to use when coming up ladder on the bracket. We put the rod holders on the inboard side and left the outboard side open so you can easily grab on to it when coming up the ladder. We could have put a third rod holder on the opposite of the boat, but then they would not match.

Glenn Weeks at GW Performance Welding in Northfield NJ made them along with the sunshade. He is great if oyu need some custom work.