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Anonymous
Guest
What's the proper way to bleed air out of system? I have always had a small drip from o-ring on ram and now have some slop due to trapped air. Need help. Thanks in advance.
Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:
Check out page 20 of the Sea Star manual. Here's the link to the manual:
http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/OUTBOARD/oboard.htm
Scroll to the very bottom of the website and click on "Instruction books for outboard installations are available in downloadable PDF format."
http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/OUTBOARD/oboard.htm
Scroll to the very bottom of the website and click on "Instruction books for outboard installations are available in downloadable PDF format."
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thanks for the link. How much play in the steering is normal? I can manually move the motor about 3/4" in either direction on the ram.
stonebuster
Well-known member
It looks like I'll have to replace o-ring on ram. Not looking forward to that.
Actually, replacing the seal on the ram is not that hard. SeaStar makes a kit that includes the seal already mounted in an endcap, along with a special wrench to remove/install the endcap.
I've got a small leak, and when it gets to the point I can't stand it anymore, I'll get the kit from a local marina (SeaStar doesn't sell direct to the public). When I do that job, I'll take pics and upload them here.
I've got a small leak, and when it gets to the point I can't stand it anymore, I'll get the kit from a local marina (SeaStar doesn't sell direct to the public). When I do that job, I'll take pics and upload them here.
stonebuster
Well-known member
Porkchunker, Thanks for the reply. I checked out my owner's manual after posting and saw the end cap with the seal in it you're talking about. Do you have to drain all the fluid out? Take out the bleeder screws or just put a pan or tray down to catch the fluid?
Don't know...I've downloaded the PDFs from SeaStar's site, but haven't studied them yet. The bleeding and refilling procedures are in the PDFs.
It would be nice to be able to plug the hoses so most of the oil remains in the helm pump and hoses for reassembly. Of course all the oil will come out of the cylinder when the endcap is removed.
It would be nice to be able to plug the hoses so most of the oil remains in the helm pump and hoses for reassembly. Of course all the oil will come out of the cylinder when the endcap is removed.
Outta Here
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Not that much fluid leaks out. One quart should be enough to replace loss and allow for bleeding.
Keep some WD-40 sprayed on the cylinder ram at the motor. The least bit of corrosion (seems to build up where extended ram enters cylinder) will cause a leak. If it's leaking, it's sucking air moving the other way.
Keep some WD-40 sprayed on the cylinder ram at the motor. The least bit of corrosion (seems to build up where extended ram enters cylinder) will cause a leak. If it's leaking, it's sucking air moving the other way.
stonebuster
Well-known member
Thanks to all for the info. Doesn't seem to be a tough job, but the input from you guys make it easier to jump into. Don't want to screw something up and loose any Spring fishing time now that I just splashed the boat Friday.
stonebuster
Well-known member
Found the kit I needed to correct the o-ring leak at Boater's World today and will do the fix next time it stops raining. Looks like that may be a few days. I purged and bled air out before launch but it must suck alittle air through the bad ring as I'm getting more and more play in the wheel.
stonebuster
Well-known member
Thanks guys for the help. It was a piece of cake. Did it in about 30 minutes. 