DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
FWIW I've had better luck doing my own 2 methods to purge air from hydraulic lines versus following any of the instructions from Teleflex. One is really simple, just takes many repetitions, while with the other one you need to make a "ventable" line using a plumbing relief valve and some clear vinyl hose.
First the TEST:
Turn wheel slow all the way to one side, open the fill cap and look at the level. Continue to turn the wheel hard in the same direction while looking at the fluid level. When full it should be at the bottom of the fill threads if mounted +/- horizontally or 1/2" below the threads if mounted +/- of vertically. If the level drops when you force the wheel over you have some residual air still in the system.
SIMPLE Bleed:
Re-cap the vented cap and turn the wheel sort of fast the other way (but AVOID frothing or bubbling of the fluid!). "Crack" the vent cap just enough to let air escape, but not fluid. Turn wheel the other way and repeat. Repeat, repeat, ... repeat.
Now here's what I do ... I'll do it a few times and then get onto other projects, but while waiting for something to set or just stretching my legs ... I'll do this simple method. Doing the Test and Simple bleed above, I have 'yet' to ever have to perform the Super Bleed method again once done right. Unless of course, I added a new hose or new helm ... meaning I broke the integrity of the system.
SUPER Bleed:
Make up a line of clear hose that fits your bleeder "T" fittings on your Telefelx steering arm. If you don't have the bleeder T-fittings, I would change them out, as the method where you otherwise loosen screws to bleed it will drive you crazy! I forget the size hose and plumbing fitting you need, but get it to match the T'flex T-fitting. The plumbing fitting with vent knob (pressure relief valve) can be had at a good plumbing or hardware stores for < $10.
Use as MUCH clear hose as you need to so that you can 'see' the valve and hose from your steering wheel, i.e., so that is is up higher than the transom like on a boat with a full transom. I just tape the hose and valve to the top of the OB cover with 3M blue tape.
Instructions:
Besides, with this bleeding tool, you'll be a hit in your boatyard and will never be without beer again! Works for me ...
First the TEST:
Turn wheel slow all the way to one side, open the fill cap and look at the level. Continue to turn the wheel hard in the same direction while looking at the fluid level. When full it should be at the bottom of the fill threads if mounted +/- horizontally or 1/2" below the threads if mounted +/- of vertically. If the level drops when you force the wheel over you have some residual air still in the system.
SIMPLE Bleed:
Re-cap the vented cap and turn the wheel sort of fast the other way (but AVOID frothing or bubbling of the fluid!). "Crack" the vent cap just enough to let air escape, but not fluid. Turn wheel the other way and repeat. Repeat, repeat, ... repeat.
Now here's what I do ... I'll do it a few times and then get onto other projects, but while waiting for something to set or just stretching my legs ... I'll do this simple method. Doing the Test and Simple bleed above, I have 'yet' to ever have to perform the Super Bleed method again once done right. Unless of course, I added a new hose or new helm ... meaning I broke the integrity of the system.
SUPER Bleed:
Make up a line of clear hose that fits your bleeder "T" fittings on your Telefelx steering arm. If you don't have the bleeder T-fittings, I would change them out, as the method where you otherwise loosen screws to bleed it will drive you crazy! I forget the size hose and plumbing fitting you need, but get it to match the T'flex T-fitting. The plumbing fitting with vent knob (pressure relief valve) can be had at a good plumbing or hardware stores for < $10.
Use as MUCH clear hose as you need to so that you can 'see' the valve and hose from your steering wheel, i.e., so that is is up higher than the transom like on a boat with a full transom. I just tape the hose and valve to the top of the OB cover with 3M blue tape.
Instructions:
- Add hose/valve (vent knob CLOSED) to bleeder Ts
- Crack OPEN both bleeder Ts
- Turn wheel (OB won't turn) and watch hose ... looking for 'big bubbles' of air, like when several inches of the hose is not full of fluid
- Try to keep and get as much air on one side of the valve, watching which way the wheel turns to push the air TOWARDS the vent valve
- Note which way you need to turn the wheel to 'push' the air towards the valve
- CLOSE bleeder T on the side of the clear tube OPPOSITE where the air is
- OPEN the vent knob
- Turn wheel s-l-o-w-l-y as to force the air out of the clear tube and vent
- STOP as soon as you hit fluid, or even before, and CLOSE the vent knob
- FYI - a helper here makes this go really fast and have them CLOSE the vent valve as soon as fluid seeps from the valve
- OPEN the bleeder T which was closed
- Repeat
- To get rid of smaller air pockets, also do the simple purge/bleed once or twice or so
- With both bleeder Ts OPEN, make sure to turn & turn & turn the wheel in, if not both directions, many many times so as to ensure all air is removed
Besides, with this bleeding tool, you'll be a hit in your boatyard and will never be without beer again! Works for me ...