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Bottom of Parkers; solid glass or wood core?

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96TL

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I'm installing a thru-hull this weekend, and I've never done this before. I was just wondering, is the bottom solid glass or wood core? Can anyone give me some tips on installing a thru-hull? I plan on using epoxy to mount an oak block (also covered in epoxy) to support the seacock.

Thanks!

Dom
 

Outta Here

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"solid glass or wood core?", com'on now...Parker hull bottoms are solid glass. Where you're drilling, about 1/2" thick (1' either side of keel) :wink:
 

96TL

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Thanks.

Any tips or tricks to installing a 3/4 thru-hull securely? Should I oversize the hole, fill with epoxy, and drill through the epoxy plug? Or should I drill the proper size hole and just wet out the edges?

I plan on using a piece of white oak as a backing block epoxied in the bilge. I figured I could paint it to match the rest of the bilge.
 

Outta Here

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Others may cringe, the only thing I have ever done is load up both sides with 5200. Worked for me for several high speed p/u's and an Airmar 2 3/8" hole. Did you check with Parker as to where to install p/u? I would have to measure but app. 1' from transom and 1'port of keel is factory placement.

Let's DRILL :D
 

96TL

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I got the measurements from Parker. 5" from the transom and 4 1/2" for the port stringer. 8)

Dom
 

Capt. Ronnie

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96TL":1gtp597r said:
I got the measurements from Parker. 5" from the transom and 4 1/2" for the port stringer. 8)

Dom
On my 2320, my thru hull ducer is donw the center of the hull about 5- ft in front of the engine.
If you look at the bottom of the 2320, it is flat at the center at the rear of the hull.
Works flawlessly and no need for a faring block. no problems if you trailer also !
It is about 1 1/2 in thick solid glass there!
 

Megabyte

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96TL":10psybye said:
Should I oversize the hole, fill with epoxy, and drill through the epoxy plug? Or should I drill the proper size hole and just wet out the edges?.
Since the bottom is solid glass, you shouldn't have to overbore.
If you bed it well with 4200 or 5200, you won't have any water intrusion that would require wetting the bore with epoxy, but then... it wouldn't hurt either. 8)

Sounds like you've done the research, bought good materials, and have a plan.
Don't forget the camera. :wink:
 

Capt. Ronnie

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Megabyte":u5obqovf said:
96TL":u5obqovf said:
Should I oversize the hole, fill with epoxy, and drill through the epoxy plug? Or should I drill the proper size hole and just wet out the edges?.
Since the bottom is solid glass, you shouldn't have to overbore.
If you bed it well with 4200 or 5200, you won't have any water intrusion that would require wetting the bore with epoxy, but then... it wouldn't hurt either. 8)

Sounds like you've done the research, bought good materials, and have a plan.
Don't forget the camera. :wink:

If you did set it in 5200 and need to replace the ducer later, whats the best way to remove it ???I know I've read about a solvent that softens the 5200!
 

DaleH

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Capt. Ronnie":2df433uk said:
If you did set it in 5200 and need to replace the ducer later, whats the best way to remove it ???I know I've read about a solvent that softens the 5200!
Anti-Bond 2015 is a solvent that will cut 5200. I used it to remove, check, clean, and replace my Pahka seacock. In the boatyard, we've also used it to remove an outboard bracket that was secured all the way across the transom with 5200.

You do need to work it into the space between the glass and piece, and I has found that sharp thin knife blades soaked in AB2015 or a thin piece of piano wire cuts into it very well.

I only use 5200 below the waterline, I don't trust anything else.
 

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