Bow Bilge pump area in the 2310 in cabin

[Beaverjc]

Got a question for everyone...I own a 23 walkaround and it seems like a get a lot of water in the front bilge area (you can access the area in the cubby on the floor under the deck plate. I have a manual switch bilge that I turn on and it runs for 5 minutes at time pumping water out. Where the heck is all that water coming from? Seems like a common happening and I cant figure out where the water is coming from - anchor area during rain is my only thought but it should be that much water...any ideas?

 

[Ron t]

I have a 2017 2120 (purchased new) with the same problem. Mine is worse because there is no access hatch or bilge pump forward ( only aft) Very foolish design, and a bilge pump is not an option when buying the boat. Putting one in now is a major job. My water comes in from the anchor locker and the access hatch in the splash well. ( and it’s a lot of water if I don’t use the boat for a few weeks and we get a lot of rain) I would assume your water comes in from the same place.

 

[Brent]

Drainage from anchor locker to aft. Stringers are notched to allow water to flow and under a deck a pipe is installed. Inside the cabin and berth, there are small floor drainage holes for water to enter. Under the cabin walkway floor, the part of the area is flat and will hold water when boat is moored in water. Various options - store boat with the front up on a lift or on a trailer, install a second bilge pump, enlarge one of the floor drains and insert pickup hose for manual or electric pump, drive the boat fast on plane often.....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Beaverjc]

Thanks for the feedback. I feel better that it happens to other boats and seems like its designed like that for some reason or the other. I will just have to hit the front bilge switch more often to pump water out. I am just glad there isnt some odd issue I need to figure out!

 

[Brent]

Add hot soapy with boat soap or simple green, etc plus a cup of bleach , allow to sit 30 minutes then pump out to kill odors


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Beaverjc]

Add hot soapy with boat soap or simple green, etc plus a cup of bleach , allow to sit 30 minutes then pump out to kill odors


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think I may just swap out the manual bilge pump to an automatic one so I dont have to worry about it. Good tips though!

 

[Brent]

Ok. My pump is parallel to helm seat and still have standing water in the flat spot area by cabin threshold

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Legal Bill]

First I'm hearing of this problem. Is there any way to seal the anchor cover with a gasket ?

 

[Brent]

A limber hole is a drain hole through a frame or other structural member of a boat designed to prevent water from accumulating against one side of the frame, and allowing it to drain toward the bilge. Limber holes are common in the bilges of wooden boats. The term may be extended to cover drain holes in floors. Limber holes are created in between bulkheads so that one compartment does not fill with water. The limber holes allow water to drain into the lowest part of the bilge so that it can be pumped out by a single bilge pump (or more usually, one electric and one manual pump).


Water and debris gather inside the boat cabin and removed by opening deck hatches if present. Under the cockpit of a pilot house there is pipe for drainage to aft bilge pump. Sometimes the pipe is blocked with debris and needs to be cleaned out. Inside the cabin you might open a deck hatch and pump out water, and there is flat spot in the same area that collects water.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Philbees]

I just pumped out 15 gallons of water from under the cabin floor. I took out ten gallons a few days ago.
Four days of leftover rain from Ian.

 

[Reefrunner]

Drilled a drain hole thru the side of the hull and glassed in a false bottom in the anchor locker. No more needless water into the forward bilge from the anchor locker. Then found my slam hatch in the cockpit was not sealing well. Replaced gasket with another manufacturers gasket. New gasket is more pronounced so it actually seals. Installed skirt over the top of the fiberglass stand box in the cockpit aft, that the rigging runs thru. Now I have a 99.9% dry bilge. Installed rubber plugs in the cabin floor drains to keep the dirt out and any remaining water. Don’t hose out the cabin so no need for drains. Now my bilge is 100% dry and clean. Most of the water problems originally came from the anchor locker. Boat is a 2520.

 

[baker]

Drilled a drain hole thru the side of the hull and glassed in a false bottom in the anchor locker. No more needless water into the forward bilge from the anchor locker. Then found my slam hatch in the cockpit was not sealing well. Replaced gasket with another manufacturers gasket. New gasket is more pronounced so it actually seals. Installed skirt over the top of the fiberglass stand box in the cockpit aft, that the rigging runs thru. Now I have a 99.9% dry bilge. Installed rubber plugs in the cabin floor drains to keep the dirt out and any remaining water. Don’t hose out the cabin so no need for drains. Now my bilge is 100% dry and clean. Most of the water problems originally came from the anchor locker. Boat is a 2520.

Do you have any pictures of the anchor locker bottom that you glassed in?
I'm getting ready to do that on my 2520

 

[warthog5]

That area is the lowest in the boat....when the boat is at rest /on trailer.

When boat gets on Plane....It will run back to the stern.

Mine had a float switch along with the pump. '95 2530

 

[rpd249]

I have a 2017 2120 (purchased new) with the same problem. Mine is worse because there is no access hatch or bilge pump forward ( only aft) Very foolish design, and a bilge pump is not an option when buying the boat. Putting one in now is a major job. My water comes in from the anchor locker and the access hatch in the splash well. ( and it’s a lot of water if I don’t use the boat for a few weeks and we get a lot of rain) I would assume your water comes in from the same place.

I also have a 2017 2120 purchased new. Every year I flush the drain in the anchor locker. Each time I use the boat, at low speeds before I put her up on plane, I put the bow up and manually turn on the aft bilge. Depending on the amount of rain or water entering the locker during wash down, Additioanal water is pumped out. Cannot depend on the hardwired bilge to take care of all water trapped under the deck. Seems to resolve the problem.

I have a 2017 2120 (purchased new) with the same problem. Mine is worse because there is no access hatch or bilge pump forward ( only aft) Very foolish design, and a bilge pump is not an option when buying the boat. Putting one in now is a major job. My water comes in from the anchor locker and the access hatch in the splash well. ( and it’s a lot of water if I don’t use the boat for a few weeks and we get a lot of rain) I would assume your water comes in from the same place.

 

[Reefrunner]

I also have a 2017 2120 purchased new. Every year I flush the drain in the anchor locker. Each time I use the boat, at low speeds before I put her up on plane, I put the bow up and manually turn on the aft bilge. Depending on the amount of rain or water entering the locker during wash down, Additioanal water is pumped out. Cannot depend on the hardwired bilge to take care of all water trapped under the deck. Seems to resolve the problem.

 

[Reefrunner]

Sorry, I previously posted without writing anything by accident….
Unfortunately I did not take photos of the job of glassing in the anchor locker as I did it. Below are 3 pics of what it looks like now. The ss clam shell vent covers the 1/2 hole drilled thru the side of the hull into the anchor locker. The glassed in the false floor pic does not show it but there is a 2+” fall from starboard to port and from bow aft towards the drain hole. I faired from the aft corner to the hole so water would not stand in the corner. The fairing makes the hole look odd in the photo because of the pic angle. Now all rain water and dirty wash water drains overboard instead of into the bilge. I rough cut a scrap piece of white PVC with holes drilled in it that sits about 2” higher than the false floor. This piece allows for better drainage when rinsing the anchor line and chain with a hose when I get back to the dock. I can also remove the pvc piece to clean underneath every so often. The glassed in false floor sits right above the bow eye. If I ever need to access the bolts I will add a removable access plate. Left out for now. Bitter end of the anchor line is secured up high. Big improvement, not sure why it is not done this way from the start. Auto bilge pumps still installed in the bilge, but now the bilge is dry so no need to rely on the pumps to empty water after every rain or deck wash. Bilge is dry!

 

[Reefrunner]

Correction. The above says incorrect Info. The false floor fall/angle is from port to starboard towards the drain hole. Sorry……

 

[baker]

Thanks for posting. It's good info and nice work.
Did you glass over a piece of plywood or starboard to make the floor so there's a void below?

 

[A^4]

Other than having a clamshell vent on the side of your bow, I really like this solution. I've considered maybe a drum windlass and just sealing the entire anchor locker off as well. Not very practical, and expensive, but I'd love to keep water out of the bilge. Maybe this is the solution. Thanks for posting!

 

[A^4]

Correction. The above says incorrect Info. The false floor fall/angle is from port to starboard towards the drain hole. Sorry……

How would you access the back of your bow eye for trailering? On my last parker I had an issue with that and had to replace it. I suppose before you glassed everything in you made yours bulletproof and will just add that access hatch if needed...