Charging Batteries

[T-Bro]

I was back east last weekend and got a lot of work done on my 1801. While the leaning post was not delivered yet, I did remove the old cooler seat and sealed up the holes in the deck with Marine Tex. I also installed the new TACO spring loaded rod hangers on the gunwales for horizontal storage.

I took out the Exide Group 27 Dual purpose batteries in the console and examine them. One of the batteries had a significant amount of corrosion on the baterry cable, so I removed it from the post and cleaned both with a baking soda paste. I also bought a battery charge and removed one of the batteries from the boat and charged it overnight. After 16 hours of charging, the gauge on the charger still read around 50%. After I put it back in the boat, the Yamaha gauges read 12.8 to 13.1 for each battery.

Is this OK, or do I need to replace the batteries? The boat started fine after I drained all the old fuel out and replaced with 6 gallons of stabilized E-10 gas. When I go back at the end of the month, I will install the leaning post and be ready for some good fishing. I wonder if I can hook up the charger to the batteries when they are in the console. The two batteries are wired together with a 1-2-Both-Off switch. Is there a setting that will allow both baterries to be charged at the same time?

Thanks for your help.

T-Bro

 

[Outta Here]

Looks like you have a 2003 model Parker. Looks like original batteries.
I change out batteries every 3 years. They don't cost a lot and can cause a lot of pain if old or dead. Bass Pro runs them on sale every spring for $50.00 ea.

I believe Yamahas charge both batteries no matter where battery switch is turned.

 

[Porkchunker]

I believe the only way the Yami gauge works is to have the motor running, which means that the charging circuit is pumping up the battery. So you may be getting a false reading.

If I remember from a THT thread, a fully charged battery should read 12.8 volts after charging and letting it sit for a couple of hours (with no load...preferably nothing connected to it) . Continue to check the battery every couple of hours, and if the charge keeps going down a bit at a time, then the battery probably needs replacement.

Dave

 

[T-Bro]

The charger I bought from NAPA just has a meter on it that ranges from 0% to 100% charged, so no measure of volts is available. Turning the key to the first position, just prior to turning over the motor on my F115 allows me to get readings on the electronic gauges.

The Yamaha gauges indicated that both batteries were between 12.8 and 13.2 volts. I used the selector gauge to change which battery was being read, and it seemed to vary between positions.

The batteries were with the boat when I bought it and it is a 2003, so I suspect that it might be time to change them out. Any recommendations? I have been thinking the AGM would be a good way to go since the boat sits for 9 months a year in an unenclosed carport.

Any suggestions of batteries and where I can get them on MV?

Thanks!

T-Bro

 

[Megabyte]

T-bro... I am a firm believer in AGM batteries, especially on a boat.

I have Optimas on mine, but Cabellas carries an excellent AGM with outstanding specifications (even better than the Optimas).

The Cabellas batteries are made by Universal Power Group and also sold under the "Universal Battery", "Adventure Power", and "Adventure Power Marine" names.

http://www.universalpowergroup.com/main/home.aspx

Hope this helps.

 

[T-Bro]

Kevin,

Do the Optima batteries have the screw on posts that I am currently using, or would I need to change the lugs to the larger size like an auto battery?

Any problem with the charging system on a Yamaha F115 motor. I thought I read that the AGM format did not respond well to the charging system on an outboard?

Thanks!

T-Bro

 

[DaleH]

Is there a setting that will allow both baterries to be charged at the same time?

Yes, BOTH will do it. But … make SURE you switch the battery switch to either #1 or #2 once you shut OFF the motor or both batteries will equalize. One ‘hot’ one and was ‘poor’ could combine into 2 so-so ones, where neither will start the OB.

If I remember from a THT thread, a fully charged battery should read 12.8 volts after charging and letting it sit for a couple of hours (with no load...preferably nothing connected to it).

Via a voltmeter a fully charged battery should be around 12.6 volts AFTER a 12-hour sitting period (no load or use) to allow the surface effect from the charging cycle to dissipate.

The Yamaha gauges indicated that both batteries were between 12.8 and 13.2 volts.

Don’t trust ANY manufacturer’s gauge – use a DMM for true diagnosing results.

I used the selector gauge to change which battery was being read, and it seemed to vary between positions.

It will … different battery, different set of leads, each with varying resistance and perhaps even corrosion, which causes heat, which causes more resistance, which eventually leads to failure if not corrected.

The batteries were with the boat when I bought it and it is a 2003, so I suspect that it might be time to change them out. Any recommendations?

Thought they test good, I too go for 4-years use on my batteries. The 2 older ones are charged and kept on hand for spares or emergency dewatering use; house, basement, boats, etc.

I will respectfully disagree with our preeminent Capt Kevin here though. For my money and use, AGM batteries are an absolute waste of $$ - only a few boats need their advantages. Do I need to store my batteries unside-down? Nope. Can I easily get at them to monitor the electrolyte level? Yup. Now the biggest advantage AGMs have over a wetcell battery is that AGMs can take a pounding that a wetcell constructed battery can’t. Do you run offshore in serious seas all the time? If not … save your money.

My advice would be to buy 2 premium brand (Interstate, Excide) dual-purpose starting/deep cycle Group 24 batteries. That’s big enough to start V6 motors! For whatever reasons, not much more $$, you could also go to Group 27s, since the waters off of MV could be lonely if you ran out of juice.

It is my admitted bias that a properly maintained wetcell battery is more than adequate for the typical boater. Your use/mileage may vary ... !

I have been thinking the AGM would be a good way to go since the boat sits for 9 months a year in an unenclosed carport.

Use the boat more !

 

[T-Bro]

I wish I could use the boat more, but I live in Denver and only get to use the 1801 during the summer.

I primarily use the boat for inshore flyfishing, but will take it as much as 20 miles south of MV if conditions allow. I dont think the pounding is enough to justify the AGM battery.

What does interest me is the slow discharge rate of the AGM and the lack of acid in the battery and hydrogen produced since I keep the batteries in the console. I like the idea that I can winterize the boat in September and come back in May and not have to clean corrosion off the posts and screw around with charging up the batteries.

As to sizing, the boat currently has two group 27 Exides and they have been fine. The Troll Fury application looks slick, but it seems like it is more power than I will need. I have a GPS,VHF, and FF, and washdown pump running off the batteries, but no stereo or other goodies. The $400 price also seems steep, compared to around $200 for two new Exides.

However the benefit of not having to worry about the batteries night be worth the additional cost. Is there a better size Optima with 5/16" posts or other AGM that you would suggest?

Thanks!

Todd

 

[Megabyte]

Kevin,

Do the Optima batteries have the screw on posts that I am currently using, or would I need to change the lugs to the larger size like an auto battery?

The Optimas have both the marine screw posts, as well as the 'automotive lugs'.
I believe that the Cabellas batteries (made by Universal Power Group) only have the threaded posts, and do not have automotive lugs.

Any problem with the charging system on a Yamaha F115 motor. I thought I read that the AGM format did not respond well to the charging system on an outboard?

No problem at all. The charging system of an outboard is totally compatible with AGM and flooded cell batteries.
Gel cell batteries are the ones that require a charger specifically designed for them. AGM's and gel cells are two totally different technologies.

Dale is correct that one of the AGM advantages is that they can take a lot more rough use than a flooded cell, but another important advantage is that they don't off-gas when being charged.

If your battery area is well ventillated, hydrogen gas buildup won't be a concern. However, if you've modified your battery(s) location or if you've added a house battery in the pilothouse to support extra on-board equipment with a high power draw, the safety of an AGM battery is an option that deserves consideration. :wink:

Marine batteries (and fuel/water separators :wink: ), can be the equivilant of the age old Coke or Pepsi debates.
Everyone has their preferences for a number of different reasons. 8)

 

[Megabyte]

Is there a better size Optima with 5/16" posts or other AGM that you would suggest?

Todd, The 34M should be plenty of battery for your application.
You can compare all the different sizes here:
http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/

 

[DaleH]

The $400 price also seems steep, compared to around $200 for two new Exides.

Costco had glassmat AGMs on sale the other day for ~$150 each.

Two 27s would run < $200.
FWIW a friend, PhD in Applied Physics working on battery stuff for new torpedoes, swears by Wal*Mart batteries. He says 'regardless of brand', all 12VDC batteries (wetcells) are only coming out of 2 or 3 factories and that they're most likely the same. Just buy one made this Spring - most are marked with a date of Mfg'r.

Again, just my opine, but I feel most batteries dies from neglect than anything else. Keep it clean, charge after the season and before the season, check the electrolyte level at least in the beginning of July and then August (hot months), add distilled water and only AFTER running so it can absorb into the mix for 2-3 days ... use dielectric grease and NO WING-NUTS on the terminals and one should be fine.