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Dabbie7

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I'm new to the site and need some advice. I have a Parker 2310, 2004 model with a Yamaha 225 4 stroke. I'm not new to boating, but I have never owned quite the boat the parker is, and I am relatively naive when it comes to boat care, etc. I guess you could say I'm a long term weekender when it comes to boating. I did install all of my own electronics including a Raymarine C series display, DSM250 fishfinder, GPS and Pathfinder radar. I have kept the boat at a marina on the bay for the past two years in a boatel arrangement, i.e. out of the water in an elevated rack, covered but barely. It seems that every time I drive all the way to the boat and spend the day out fishing etc. the boat just gets a quick wash down, motor flushed, and off we go on our way back home. I've always kept up with the factory recommended maintenance on the motor etc., and everything on the boat works perfectly. I've now trailered it home with the intention of doing some overdue maintenance. Need some advice on what to use to give her a thorough cleaning, etc. Here are the issues I'm facing:

1. The deck is dirty, not really, but it's not that nice clean white it was new. What do I use to scrub the deck and make it look new again, but also to protect it from dirt and grime etc. moving forward.
2. The hardtop aluminum supports have sort of a chalky film, almost like water drops, that doesn't come off with soap and a rag. Same goes for the aluminum frame around the windshield.
3. I'm seeing rust around the edges of the rail supports, some cleats, etc. How can I remove this rust?
4. Several times I have left it in the water at a marina down at the beach, and there is a dark film from the water line down, particularly on the sides. I've scrubbed it down to where it is just a slightly darker shade, but I want to clean it thoroughly, if that is possible.
5. One thing that broke early on, and I'm sure I'm not the only one who has this problem, is the strap that snaps and holds the door down into the cabin open. Any suggestions on a good permanent fix to replace the strap?
6. Any ideas for protecting the motor cover, wax, etc.? I keep a cover on it when it's not in use.
7. Suggestions for waxing the entire hull, (Other than to hire someone else to do it)? What to use, best way to apply and remove etc.
8. Ideas for extending the life of the tires on the trailer etc.

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I would also love to hear about activities you guys participate in. Thanks again!
 

Porkchunker

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I use Bar Keeper's Friend for cleaning the deck and hardware. It has a bit of oxacylic acid which goes after redish stains from iron laden water and the slight orange tinge that stainless can get in salt water. Also cleans the deck of stains and grime.

In the spring after I clean out any leaves that blew onto the deck over the winter, I clean the leaf stains and any mold/mildew with a solution of Soft Scrub with Bleach fortified with a little Clorox. Brush it onto the stains, let it sit in the sun for 15 minutes, and then rinse off. Deck looks as good as it did the day I took possession.

BTW, the Bar Keeper's Friend can leave a white dusty like powder on the surface if it is not rinsed well.
 

Megabyte

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Welcome aboard Dabbie7!
Lot of questions... but lets see what we can do here. :wink:

Cleaning the boat...
I use a combination of Orpine boat soap and Zep Orange Citrus cleaner for my 'normal' wash, but when I want the deck 'factory white' again, I add a quart (or two) of liquid Clorox to the wash water.

Scrub, let sit for awhile... then rinse lightly. If it doesn't come up white the first time, do it again with a little more bleach. I keep straight bleach in a spray bottle for tough spots. Spray on, and leave it. The next day the stain is gone. :wink:

For the stains on the hull sides, use the same solution as you used on the deck.
If the stains are severe, try Marykates On-and-Off or Starbright hull cleaner with oxocilic acid. It will turn your hull factory white again.

To clean and protect that aluminum, try Woody Wax.
http://www.woody-wax.com/
Woody Wax and a bronze wool pad will get everything bright again.

BTW - The other Woody products will get your fiberglass looking new again as well.

Hope this helps!
 

Ranger Tim

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I use Salt Away spray every second or third wash after salt water use. Flush the motor and trailer liberally. Install a flush kit if you have drums brakes and flush them with salt away every time.

I use the Woody Wax on the metal, but I found that it does not hold up to abuse over the long haul when used on the decks. I gave up protecting the non skid and simply clean with hull cleaner, Bar Keeper's Friend or Comet periodically. The smooth hull surfaces get the full treatment from Collinite No. 920 Fiberglass Boat Cleaner, then No. 925 Wax or No. 885 Fleetwax. The choice of Fleetwax or No. 925 is based on how much time I have to buff.

Fleetwax is the longest lasting basecoat wax I have found. It is also very resistant to saltwater, cleaners, but is the most difficult to buff to a shine. No. 925 is much easier to use and almost lasts as long. I also use Fleetwax on my vehicles; It is clearcoat safe.

The Collinite is available online from Neal's Harbor products. It is worth the price you pay to get long lasting protection. Sometimes I find 920 and 925 at West Marine.

Do the motor cowl with cleaner and wax also, just be careful around the decals. When washing the boat use a soap that is mild so you don't hurt your wax barrier. I use the cheap car wash soaps from Wally World.

If you ever use any hull cleaner with Oxalic Acid be careful to watch getting it in your eyes or on your clothes (just like bleach). The salt away will hurt your eyes also.
 

Dabbie7

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Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice. I'll let you know how it goes and post some pics. Thanks again!
 

Dabbie7

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One more question for you, what do you guys do to "winterize" your outboard motor? Thanks.
 

Ranger Tim

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Store the boat with the motor vertical (not tilted). Put on a new fuel filter or drain if a Racor. Check fuel filter under engine cowl for water. Treat the fuel with stabilizer. Run until stabilized fuel reaches cylinders. Fog the motor with fogging spray. Change engine oil (if 4 stroke) and lower unit lube. Pull prop, lube shaft, and cover with plastic. Wax the motor exterior and cowl. Put batteries on automatic charger or remove to warm location.

Other: Pull drain plug of boat. Pour some RV antifreeze into the bilge. Put antifreeze into the pottie or remove. Flush raw water wash with anti freeze or disconnect and run briefly until dry.

Some folks mess with another fuel filter that's around the fuel pump somewhere, but I don't bother with it.

If you don't have one, get a Yamaha lower unit lube pump, it's worth it.
 

Megabyte

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You might also want to check the Power forum area for recent posts concerning winterizing. There have been some recents posts there on the subject. :wink:
 

DaleH

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Ranger Tim":1zeoa9k6 said:
Some folks mess with another fuel filter that's around the fuel pump somewhere, but I don't bother with it.
See this post for what one CP member here, TomS, does with his VST that's on the Yamaha 4-stroke and HPDI model OBs, click here.
 

BuddahB

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Once you get it clean, try using one of those cheap soap guns. The ones that you add the liquid and it mixes as it sprays. I got a cheap one from Harbor Freight and I'm going on my 3rd year. You can take the long neck extension off and screw the nozzle back on to make it shorter. It makes is easier to stow. You can also unscrew the head and screw it on the flush adapter with some "salt away" or equivilent when flushing. Your cleaned up in a flash and don't even usually have to deal with mixing things in a bucket. If you see a bad spot, just brush as you go. Let the soap sit for a few minutes once the see thru canister is empty or empty it yourself and spray everything down using same gun with clear water. DONE!
 

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