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Cleat placement

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jdbic

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I have a '90 2310.
It has two cleats in the bow, two cleats in the stern. Or should I say on .
Anyway, I need to add cleats to mid ship. Does anybody here have this model with factory installed?
 

Megabyte

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jdbic":vfze60qy said:
I have a '90 2310.
It has two cleats in the bow, two cleats in the stern. Or should I say on .
Anyway, I need to add cleats to mid ship. Does anybody here have this model with factory installed?
I don't have a 2320, but I do have a 2520 with the factory installed springline cleats.

This is the stbd side...



This is the port side...

 

jdbic

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OK,
Where your spring cleat is I have something that you would step on and not slip. So I was thinking about where I placed the cleat in the attached pics should be OK?
 

Megabyte

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Looks like a good spot to me. Can you get a decent backing plate behind it in that position?

The purpose of a springline cleat is to maintain position forward or aft, and that spot looks like you could have a line go either way without interference.
Springlines also aid in docking in that it is the first line on, and the last line off, in order to maintain control of the boat.

If you can get to that cleat easilly from the helm while docking or shoving off, it's in a good position.

Hopefully someone else who owns a WA will chime in with an opinion.
The photos of my springline cleat are in the factory position on my 2520, so the 2510 may be a little different.

Hope this helps.
 

jdbic

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I can , I mean one of sons , can get to that spot. I will use a 3/4" piece of plywood sealed with interlux topside paint for backing. I noticed that Parker used fibergass backing on the other cleats. When the city marina trashes old boats I'll have to get a few pieces.
Thanks for the input. There is a 2510 at the end of my dock, his are in the same place as yours, but I have that foot step, that's why I was asking for opinions.
It didn't occur to me to go look at the others to see where theirs are. There are at least 8.
Thanks again.
 

Porkchunker

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I have a 2510, and my spring cleats are in the same location as Kevin's.

What kind of backing did Parker put on those spring cleats that are mounted on the top of the ridge running along the gunwhale?

There are times when the bow cleats up on the pulpit, next to the windlass aren't the right place to tie off (too far forward, and not close enough to the edge of the gunwhale). Therefore I was going to add another set of cleats up on the bow, back about 2' from the windlass. Mounting them up on top of the ridge that runs around the gunwhale, poses a problem...the underside is NOT flat, and one would have to build up an odd-shaped backing plate. If I move them inboard a few inches (like Parker mounted Kevin's spring cleats), then the glass is flat on the underside, and a simple backer plate would suffice.
 

jdbic

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Porkchunker,
The cleat in my pic is just sitting there for the picture, not attached yet, want make sure before I drill holes. There are a lot of things not on this boat that must have been options in 1990. When I got the boat a couple of years ago there was no horn or indication that one was there. But the connection for one is in the consol, as is one for wiper , which is also on my list of things to add. But the addiction gets in the way- I go fishing anyway.
 

dry doc

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all,

upon receipt of my boat, which was without any deck hardware at
my request (i knew where and what, and i would rather do personally)
......i put two 10" perko cast bronze cleats at the bow, and two more
at the "corners" on the transom.....the four ss cleats which come with
the boat were in a baggy taped to the rail.....these i installed two on
each side, roughly in front of the last two stanchions.....these are both
for spring lines and for (this is what they were measured FOR) fender
placements.......i use davis fender clips for two fenders out of the very
rear and the very foremost cockpit reaches......

the four ss cleats were thru-bolted with 1/4" ss bolts and bedded
with abundant silicone.....havent had any issues for 14 seasons now....
the STANCHIONS, however, had to much leverage for the mounting
provided, and were "working", ie the bedding was loosened.....within
two or three years, i had to pull the entire rail and refasten it......this
time, i made a mold (with clay) of the area under the toerail and re
produced that shape in teak of about 10" length......i made one for each
stanchion as a BACKING BLOCK......

the stanchions are now thrubolted with 3" long, 1/4" dia ss bolts all
the way thru the toerail glass and thru the teak block, with a nylox
put on each just as it emerges on the underside of the block....it took
a season or so of progressive tightening to get all the play out, but for
a decade now, nothing moves and the nuts wont tighten any further....
the shape of the blocks was only approximate, so the progressive tighten
ing was "molding" these blocks to the underside of the toerail.

if i had it to do over, i would ask parker about the cost of glassing in
wood throughout the toerail, ie it would be level underneath instead of a
"channel" under the toerail.......i think the stanchions do need backing
blocks because of the tremendous leverage exerted by hitting docks
(yes, it happens)........if anybody is interested in going to backing blocks
for their stanchions or for spring cleat installation, i would be happy to
go into more detail.....it was medium difficulty, overall......i also pulled
my entire rail off (they werent bolting them yet), and drilled and thru
bolted that at 6" intervals all 360 deg on the boat......i put the rail back
with 5200 and havent heard from it since.........oh, one other little upgrade on the rail is to pull the rubber thingee out of the rail channel
and replace/upgrade with 5/8"braided rope.......it looks better and works
harder for you.......i went with black, but a red rope in their might look
snazzy or perhaps white....but the black doesnt show all the creosote
so much.......

what i started to say was that these two MAJOR UPGRADES, while
ideally done differently at the factory, were only possible because of
the INTELLIGENT/SOUND DESIGN of parker boats to start with....many
boater are AMAZED that i can visualize and work at all on the hull-deck
joint or the underside of the toerail.......most boats get so fancy with
drop in liners that that CRUCIAL AREA is not available without firing up
your sawzall!........the honesty and simplicity of parker construction made
my upgrades possible and doable, and for that, linwood and russell get
strong praise.....dan
 

Megabyte

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dry doc":347qehxw said:
what i started to say was that these two MAJOR UPGRADES, while
ideally done differently at the factory, were only possible because of
the INTELLIGENT/SOUND DESIGN of parker boats to start with....many
boater are AMAZED that i can visualize and work at all on the hull-deck
joint or the underside of the toerail.......most boats get so fancy with
drop in liners that that CRUCIAL AREA is not available without firing up
your sawzall!........the honesty and simplicity of parker construction made
my upgrades possible and doable, and for that, linwood and russell get
strong praise.....dan
Couldn't have said it better myself Dan.
Thanks for the insightful post. :wink:
 

jdbic

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dry doc,
Is the cleat placement in my pic the toe rail?
I have installed that cleat now I will get some pics, especially from the under side. I could not get any backing in yet, but it is through bolted. My rail is also through bolted but has no backing. What is the stantion. do you have any pics?
If I get motivated, the clay idea could produce a mold for a fiberglass backing plate
 
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