Corrosion on motor under cowling...

[esfishdoc]

I asked a question about corrosion on the motor under the cowling over at THT.... thought some of the responses were interesting and potentially valuable.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thre ... 7&posts=15


Any comments?

Regards,

Richard

 

[Porkchunker]

I watched that thread.

Contrary to some guidance, I've been spraying my motor with WD-40 several times a year after rinsing them with a light mist of fresh water. I have no corrosion.

There are folks who absolutely hate WD-40. But...it is still a petroleum product (very light), and does protect metal from rust. I've used it on tools, guns, and fishing reels for years with nary a trace of rust on anyting.

 

[Themis]

I learned something new. Thanks Doc.

Glen Erseley is a pretty knowledgeable guy, and happy to share tips always. One of the better guys to have your ears perk up for when he posts.

 

[esfishdoc]

10-4 on the WD-40....There may be better products but it is always around.

I did get some Marine grade CRC while picking up supplies..... it seems a bit thicker.... I think the key here is to use it regularly.

I'm not worried about the corrosion that is present and I think I can alter the current course with more aggressive cleansing and "oiling".

 

[JC]

For years I have used Mercury Corrosion Guard on all of my motors. Never had a rust or corrosion problem. If you do have rust, the Eastwood Co. offers a product called Oxisolv Rust Remover. After use it leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating on the surface.

 

[joshdad]

I boat in salt water.

On my last engine, a 1990 Yamaha 175hp 2 stroke, I regularly removed the cowling and sprayed the engine with deionized water, being careful to avoid spraying water into the carbuerator air intakes. After the water dried I sprayed the engine with Yamaha silicone spray. When I sold my boat in 2005 there was NO corrosion on the engine inside the cowling.

Now I have a brand new F250. When I removed the cowling I was amazed to see the black plastic cover inside the cowling. I was advised by my mechanic to spray the exposed parts with Boeshield which I have been doing, but I am concerned that I am really not able to get the spray into critical spots shielded by the inner cover.

Should I be removing the inner black cover and repeat my past practice of spray (fine mist) with deionized water followed by protectant?

 

[rangerdog]

On the WD40. I have an 870 Wingmaster Shotgun that I bought new sometime in the early 1970s. Except for inside the barrel, I don't think it has been cleaned with anything else except WD40, including a period of competitive shooting. The WD, I believe stands for "Water Displacement." It does have some petrolium byproducts so it will deteriorate rubber, etc.

 

[Megabyte]

I use CRC 6-56 if I need something a bit more persistant, but I also keep a can of WD40 in a koozie right at the helm.
I like them both, but I use WD40 a lot more than any other product.

To protect electrical connections on the boat, I give em a spritz of Woody Wax. :wink:

BTW - My dad shoots sporting clays about 3 times a week and cleans his very expensive toys with WD40 too.
That says a lot to me. :wink:

 

[greatcir]

I had a very used trawler for 5 years and sprayed the shafts in the boat, copper tubing in engine room, house water pumps, through hull fittings, etc. with WD-40 and soon had to do it again and again.

Boeing apparently developed Boeshield T-9 for all sorts of sensitive aircraft corrosion protection. I spayed the same parts with T-9 in the trawler without any cleaning or scraping and never had to recoat them unless the T-9 had been rubbed off.

Now I use T-9 on my electric garage door rollers, boat trailer, etc. and my experience is that it lasts much longer than lithium grease or WD-40 and stops corrsion in its tracks.

I just bought a 12 pack box of the spay cans from Classic Motoring Accessories for $109.99. I have lots of toys to keep up like my new 2007 DV SC 2120 which I love and will protect with T-9. Pete