fphillips":1a140a8k said:
Question: what to do? One repair service, without seeing the motor, said they would pressure test it and if ok would probably suggest welding.
Another repair service, again without seeing the motor, wants to put a micrometer on the shaft before making any further recommendations.
1st ... was the prop hit or dinged at all?? That is KEY info! Look closely, check the tips, also when spinning the prop, as one could be bent. It is highly unlikely there's damage to the propshaft, i.e., runout, if the prop itself didn't contact whatever you hit.
If it needs repair, you should do both things. However, with that said, and without seeing just how extensive a hit for myself, I have done the following:
Propshaft - Remove the prop. On most propshafts, there is a counterbore on the rear where the shaft is held by the steady rest in the lathe during manufacturing. Center your eye on that c'bore and spin the propshaft in neutral. That c'bore should rotate 'true' to the axis of the shaft. I also have, on occasion, rigged up a last word indicator or travel mic to verify if any excess runout, at the end, middle, and start of the propshaft, up by the bearing carrier. Usually runout in excess of 0.003" or more means it needs to be straightened or replaced.
Gearcase - If there is any propshaft runout, then it needs to be removed - where all seals will be replaced anyway; pretty much nullifying a pre-work pressure test ... but note some Techs may prefer to work it differently, i.e., doing a pre and post tests.
I have, on occasion, just kept running motors, provided it passed my eye test (prop & shaft) or DIY runout tests, but I religiously checked the oil level, plus for presence of 'white' color, which indicates water intrusion. I have only ever repaired the skeg on 1 OB in my life, using those DIY kits where I glued and bolted a replacement on (bolt heads ground flush). Some probably look pretty darn ugly! But I just smoother up the area with a file (NEVER use a file on a prop, only crocus cloth on a hardwood block), but never file anything you know will be welded. Note my brothers and I have averaged running up to 11 OBs for the past 12 years or so and no less than 6 for the previous 20~30 years before that.
Without any info as what happened to the prop ... I really can't advise any further. But since a new lower unit is $3K plus and an aftermarket one from SEI is $800 to $900 (that you could replace yourself), hopefully this gives you some ideas of what you might be into, $$, IF there really is any damage that occurred.
