... there is a slight hump ...
Unfortunately, the fact that there is a "slight hump" is enough to diagnose that water has indeed penetrated the core in that area. The wood gets wet, the woods swells - ergo the "bump". Even worse, the wood dries, the crack opens, the wood gets wet, goes deeper
and the cycle repeats itself.
This isn't a deal breaker mind, but you must do 2 things
; 1) find out "what" the source of the crack is/was and (2) get it fixed.
- It could have been a structural impact from above, or worse, it could be from below (stringer). Now, placing it where you did, just ahead of the console, is where I would expect that boat to impact the waves. So, it could be the boat flexing. I have seen this a lot on older Mako CCs. Parkers are made tougher that Makos, so I wouldn't worry too much about it provided you get it fixed.
Problem is ... gelcoat has a tensile strength 10 times that of the glass substrate. So, the hull flexes on the wave impact ... but the gelcoat doesn't. This is the most common form of stress crack and they are always parallel to the force, i.e., in this case, fore to aft, as the boat takes the waves on the bow.
At best, stress cracks like this are cosmetic issues, but when not fixed, they can lead to strucural damage like you have now seen.
- If tis is the boat you want, get an independent glass guy or surveyor to check it out. Its something I could fix myself, but I can't properly diagnose it via cyber space, as Dry Doc alluded to. So get someone good, get references, just don't call the 1st number in the phonebook. You don't say where you're from, but if you give us an idea, we might be able to help you much better.
You could also confirm the stringer location by getting the HIN number off the starboard stern top and contacting Parker Marine for the deck layout info for that specific hull number.
Note - if the seller won't deal with this, I'd knock at least $1K off the asking price. If he won't deal ... walk away ... or run Forrest, run.
Now, also go to the boat and get inside with a plastic and/or wood mallet. "Knock" fore, aft, inside and outside along that crack. When over the stringer, yes the sound will be more solid. You do not want to hear any "soft" sound. Most important ... do the other side in the same place and same way and position your own body in the same way. This should give you and idea from one side of the boat to the other.
Please let us know how you make out ... and if you can take pictures, I could better advise you on a repair. Another thing, see if there's any screws on that side holding down the console - remove them if the owner lets you or doesn't see you ... if screws, see if they are in sound material and securely held. If close enough to the humped area, if might tell how far the water has spread, and believe me it can spread far and wide, but
, that is more so on larger and deeper cracks that are totally neglected. Enough for now ... good luck!