Deck Repair 1997 25 SC I/O

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

offshoreguy

Active member
Joined
Sep 13, 2008
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Location
RI
Here are some recent pics of my deck repair on my 25sc io, after a bunch of c**rs lights, and a bunch of cuts this happened.

I would have done things much differently if I had known how good of shape the glass was on the underside of the deck. I would recomend for anyone doing a repair on their deck to set their saw high, (3/4" max) so not to cut through the fiberglass on the bottom of the deck, (as long as you dont need to get to the stringers) If you are able to leave the underlying layer of glass the rotted wood is very easily chisled away with a good chisel, scuff the glass with 80 grit, thickened structural epoxy, marine ply, and you are in business. I think I could have reused the topside fiberglass skin if I was more careful. Well live and learn just wanted to put the info out there in case anyone else runs into this, I really couldnt find much info on deck repair when I did a search, which could be a good thing or it could have just been my great computer skills. And I believe this all stemed from the screws on my eng hatch not being sealed with any sealant. The boat is more than ten yrs old but i really disected the wood where the screws were and couldnt find any traces of any type of sealant what so ever. Might have got installed on a friday afternoon.

Anyone have any tricks for non skid matching, I got the parker gelcoat thinking about trying the additve by interlux I think, any ideas. Anyone ever try this stuff?
 

Attachments

  • Photo035.jpg
    Photo035.jpg
    62.3 KB
  • Photo037.jpg
    Photo037.jpg
    109.6 KB
  • Photo038.jpg
    Photo038.jpg
    65.6 KB
  • Photo043.jpg
    Photo043.jpg
    123.5 KB
  • Photo045.jpg
    Photo045.jpg
    102 KB
The non skid additive is by interlux its called inner grip additive Anyone have any thoughts on this stuff?
 
more pics, not pretty
 

Attachments

  • Photo044.jpg
    Photo044.jpg
    111.4 KB
  • Photo042.jpg
    Photo042.jpg
    123.9 KB
  • Photo041.jpg
    Photo041.jpg
    86.5 KB
  • Photo039.jpg
    Photo039.jpg
    81.5 KB
  • Photo042.jpg
    Photo042.jpg
    123.9 KB
I love to read these sort of projects and check out the photos.
I don't have the issue yet, but I know that my day will probably come.
Seeing how others resolved the issue, and the methods they used is priceless.

If you don't plan on re-using that 6" pry-out hatch, you might want to consider stepping up to a higher quality 8" hatch. Better sealing and a little more room to get to the tank would be a bonus in the future.
 
you hit the nail on the head kev, I already bought the larger deck plate and I am goin to replace the other ones I have as well with the new ones with a better seal
 
offshoreguy":36lb5mhp said:
The non skid additive is by interlux its called inner grip additive Anyone have any thoughts on this stuff?
Have never used it but it is supposed to be great stuff. However, the finish won't be a match for the Parker non-skid. My deck's finish is more like 'orange peel' than pebbles ...
 
Your right mine too dale, any thoughts on how to get somewhat of a match, the "orange peel" seems tough to duplicate, textured roller with slightly thickened gel coat??? I thought i might try to mix a non skid additive with maybe some micro ballons and possibly sprinkle some more additive over the top to try to replicate that lumpy appearance?????? Any thoughts?? For me it doesnt have to be perfect just close.
Wade
 
I've heard of folks using a 'salt shaker' over wet gel coat, but I've never tried it.
My deck is factory and it looks sorta like 80 grit sandpaper. :)
 
Megabyte":3mhqykvk said:
I've heard of folks using a 'salt shaker' over wet gel coat..... :)

We use a "Flour Sifter" over base coat, then overcoat with thinned G/C. With a little practice, it is nice and even.
 
offshoreguy":3ihnb76q said:
I thought i might try to mix a non skid additive with maybe some micro ballons and possibly sprinkle some more additive over the top to try to replicate that lumpy appearance?????? Any thoughts??
Wade:

I'm redoing my ENTIRE cockpit this Spring and I decided NOT to use gelcoat, for many reasons. First off, any 2-part linear polyurethane is far more permanent and durable; think of AWL-Grip and similar LPUs.

I'm looking at the LPUs from SYSTEMTHREE. See the color chart below. I'm not thrilled that there isn't more of a sand color, but you can get their products "tinted" at your local hardware store as long as the tints don't exceed 5% of the mix. I may try to make it a tad more Parker beigey (sp?), if that is a word - doh!

The LPU by S3 is a non-solvent based mix that doesn't require respirators with organic filter cartridges in them, so the application should be fairly straight forward. Stay tuned for an in-depth tutorial complete with pictures :) .
 

Attachments

  • S3 Colors.pdf
    26.9 KB
I agree with you Dale but im just not ready to redo the hole deck, I will keep my eyes open for when you do that though
Thanks for the link Kevin I think spraying is the direction im leaning towards
Matt your way was the way I as originally thinkin of goin but I think I could match it with the spray easier
 
sorry meant to say thanks Brian, I was a little tired when I was typing that reply I guess
 
Comin along slow and steady, just playin the weather waiting for the warmer days to glass. More pics, Hopefully Ill get to lay down some glass this week but the weather for tuesday looks great for stelwagon, might have to play hooky and go fishin!
 

Attachments

  • deck repair 001.jpg
    deck repair 001.jpg
    72.6 KB
  • deck repair 002.jpg
    deck repair 002.jpg
    77.1 KB
  • deck repair 001.jpg
    deck repair 001.jpg
    72.6 KB
Will it ever end! If I paid someone to do this id be broke! Maybe there is light at the end of this long dark tunnel
 

Attachments

  • Photo061.jpg
    Photo061.jpg
    54.6 KB
  • Photo064.jpg
    Photo064.jpg
    52.2 KB
  • Photo062.jpg
    Photo062.jpg
    65.9 KB
offshoreguy":1p7hdb9w said:
Maybe there is light at the end of this long dark tunnel

No, there isn't. Once you realize glass and gelocat work isn't as hard as it sounds, you want to fix everything. :lol:

Nice job! :)
 
Back
Top