Every year I look at the distributor cap and rotor. They usually look somewhat burned after about 100 hrs. use. Is this normal? Can they be cleaned up? I usually replace them. Basically I'm tired of spending $82 for the cap and $23 for the rotor every year. This is a 2006 5.7l Volvo GI-F. Would appreciate some advice.
Distributor question
- Thread starter TRUE BLUE
- Start date
Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:
JamesTX
Well-known member
I can't say exactly about your particular application but back in the day the old GM HEI cap and rotor lasted a LONG time. Several years on daily drivers.
Is your engine actually misfiring? Typically you shouldn't have any issues until the contacts actually begin to wear. I would guess the burned look your seeing is just the tracking in the cap. Difficult to say without seeing it but I would say it is normal.
Make sure your rotor is falling into place correctly and the same with the cap. Make sure there isn't any kind of bind causing a misalignment. Unlikely issues but you never know.
Is your engine actually misfiring? Typically you shouldn't have any issues until the contacts actually begin to wear. I would guess the burned look your seeing is just the tracking in the cap. Difficult to say without seeing it but I would say it is normal.
Make sure your rotor is falling into place correctly and the same with the cap. Make sure there isn't any kind of bind causing a misalignment. Unlikely issues but you never know.
How often do you replace the cap and rotor? They just looked a little burnt to me and do not feature waiting for the engine to start misfiring when I'm out there somewhere. Somehow a hundred bucks a year doesn't seem right either.
JamesTX
Well-known member
I am sure Volvo has a recommended interval, sorry couldn't tell you what it is.
In automotive applications this engine (350 TBI) has been around since about 1987. I am sure there were plenty of pickups with this engine that went over 100K without a tune up. I would have imagined the change interval was 50-60K miles??? What that translates into hours on the water don't know. Again your looking for worn contact points and/or cracks, those are typically the replacement flags not necessarily an interval.
I recommend shopping around if anything. I found your cap and rotor for less then $45 + shipping on the web.
In automotive applications this engine (350 TBI) has been around since about 1987. I am sure there were plenty of pickups with this engine that went over 100K without a tune up. I would have imagined the change interval was 50-60K miles??? What that translates into hours on the water don't know. Again your looking for worn contact points and/or cracks, those are typically the replacement flags not necessarily an interval.
I recommend shopping around if anything. I found your cap and rotor for less then $45 + shipping on the web.
MaxOut
Well-known member
If is just dirty with carbon and not pitted I would clean and put back on. You may have a weak coil and can cause more carbon to build under the cap. Also check to make sure your spark plugs are gapped properly. I have gone many years and 100's of hours on the same cap and rotor. Also make sure you replace your ignition wires with OEM or better rout them carefully and use electrolytic grease inside the wire caps before placing them on the distributor cap and plugs. A rapidly deteriorating rotor and cap is usually sign of a weak or broken connection. I always kept a cap and rotor on the boat as well as spark pugs and tools to change them. Ask a marine mechanic and he will tell you to change them every season but that is overkill. If you are only using the boat 100 hours a season you should get 2-3 seasons easy before needing to change the cap or rotor. Take a close look at your spark plugs when you take them out as they can tell you allot about the engines condition or possible issues. Post pictures of the parts and I would be glad to chime in.
JamesTX
Well-known member
Going to PM
