embarrasing but do I have a problem?

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Parkerman

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Joined
Mar 12, 2008
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Location
Broomall, PA
So I have had the boat out twice this season back on Memorial Day. Both times had their issues. The first time out we got stuck in some mud, actually make that muck- really stuck. Then the tide went out and we were REALLY stuck. 5 hours later the tide came back in and off we went. The motor got an extra long flush that night. So the second time out we ran a few hours, tied up and walked the town. On the way back to the dock I had three alarms. Good pee stream and the alarms stopped after placing it in neutral. So did I screw up my water pump? Anything else I can / should check? I would hate to have issues on the 4th.
 
Tim
I have a F-150 and its a 2004. Alarms were three seperate with about 15 minutes run time in between each.
 
Well, as it sounds like you were stuck in a good bit of muck, as Dale said, you should check (and if they are past due, may as well replace since they will be exposed) the poppit valve and t-stats and the water pump also. Has this alarm ever sounded before you hit bottom? If not, my first suspicion would be the obvious one, that it was an overheat alarm caused by sucking it some of that muck. Where is the boat located? I see you are in Broomall, I'm in Media. There are also some very useful links over on SIM's forum on THT with pictorials on how do to some of what's mentioned here.

Tim
 
Yeah, for the most part two days after the mud incident we ran for a good two hours before my first alarm. After that I would say the next two alarms were probably 15 minutes apart. I found the pop it valve link thanks to Dale. Are there any links to how to do the t-stats? I run in Delaware in the Inian River and Rehobeth Bays.
Thanks for all your input.
 
Parkerman":1keyqu95 said:
Are there any links to how to do the t-stats?
Click to expand...
Go slow, remove cover (noting approx torque on bolts), watch gasket, remove and clean, re-assemble. See pic.
 

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I've got the 150 2 stroke, but they might not be too much different when it comes to cooling. On mine, there is a thermostat cover at the top of each cylinder head. With motor tilted up out of the water, real easy to remove from inside the boat (2120). Last season I overheated during my spring startup because sand lodged in the small cooling passage in one of the housings. Had them both out, so I replaced the t-stats even though they were probably OK. On this engine, there is an overheat sensor on each cylinder head. I now have a temp guage wired with a switch to a temp sender in each head. I can switch between port and starboard cylinder heads to see what the temps are doing. This past season, did the water pump in the spring and overheated first time out. Temp in both cylinder heads was high. Turned out this time I had sand in the poppit (pressure relief valve) causing it to stick open. OK pee stream even with the stuck poppit, but much better now. No problem working on the poppit from inside the boat. remove the CDI cover and it's right there. No more difficult to work on than the t-stat. Seems t-stats (replace every few seasons), t-stat cover (just clean it) and poppit (clean or replace) are likely places to start if the problem only started after grounding. I run in many shallows in Barnegat Bay, so sand in the cooling is a chronic problem.

John
 
johnsw":23klm7bs said:
I've got the 150 2 stroke, but they might not be too much different when it comes to cooling. On mine, there is a thermostat cover at the top of each cylinder head. With motor tilted up out of the water, real easy to remove from inside the boat (2120). Last season I overheated during my spring startup because sand lodged in the small cooling passage in one of the housings. Had them both out, so I replaced the t-stats even though they were probably OK. On this engine, there is an overheat sensor on each cylinder head. I now have a temp guage wired with a switch to a temp sender in each head. I can switch between port and starboard cylinder heads to see what the temps are doing. This past season, did the water pump in the spring and overheated first time out. Temp in both cylinder heads was high. Turned out this time I had sand in the poppit (pressure relief valve) causing it to stick open. OK pee stream even with the stuck poppit, but much better now. No problem working on the poppit from inside the boat. remove the CDI cover and it's right there. No more difficult to work on than the t-stat. Seems t-stats (replace every few seasons), t-stat cover (just clean it) and poppit (clean or replace) are likely places to start if the problem only started after grounding. I run in many shallows in Barnegat Bay, so sand in the cooling is a chronic problem.
Click to expand...

GREAT additional info there John! That's what there forums are all about ... being a ready resource for DIY information of Parker boats :D ! Or as Dave McG. aka 'Porkchunker'[/i] is fond to state ... "We're your on-line Parker Owner's manual!"
 
Thanks. Just trying to help out if I can.

Also forgot to mention, when you remove the cover for the poppit, hold on to it since there's a spring in there that keeps tension on the valve piston. Not much of a problem if you're on land, but if you're in the water that could be a problem if it pops out (Murphy's Law being what it is).

John
 
Well I ran the boat for two hours on Saturday, July 4th, with no issues. I guess I will leave well enough alone for now. Another issue I had after my June grounding was my speedometer- it stopped working. I saw a post from Capt. Kevin about a 1/16" hand spun drill bit in a small hole on the leading edge of the motor but when I looked on my F-150 I didnt see this hole. Any other ideas to fix this?
 
I'd be replacing the water pump impeller. Not a bad job to do.

You can clean out the hole for the speedo while you're at it - ought to fix that problem.
 
Parkerman":1lq6tlgw said:
after my June grounding was my speedometer- it stopped working. I saw a post from Capt. Kevin about a 1/16" hand spun drill bit in a small hole on the leading edge of the motor but when I looked on my F-150 I didnt see this hole.
Click to expand...

Not sure about the F150, but here is where it is on an OX66.
I would imagine the pitot tube would be in the same place on any Yamaha.
If it is full of gunk, you won't see it unless you look really, really close...

DSCN0003.JPG
 
:oops: :oops:
Yeah.......but it is so small.
Anyone could have missed it.
Once I cleared it of some muck I got a steady stream of water for about 20 seconds. I guess that should do it.
 
The tubing that runs from the motor to the helm instruments looks like large, clear, aquarium air tube.
If you have some 'canned air', you might try blowing back through the tube. I'm betting you have an obstruction.
 
If you could reduce the pressure and the flow, it might work.
Just be mindful that the tubing is pretty lightweight.

Might be a good idea to call Andy at SIM and ask what he would recommend you do.
 
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