Engine Control Project being considered

[nhr3]

Well here we are in project season again and I find myself trying to remember the things I swore I would fix in the off season. After deep thought I remembered I have an occasional short somewhere in the engine trim system. When I got down to troubleshooting I discovered the three trim wires in the binnacle that coil before they go up to the trim lever were chafed and causing the problem. I have never been satisfied with the binnacle and am looking into replacement options.

I have a 1997 2520 with a single station, single outboard (Mercury 225 EFI (I can hear the Yamaha guys groan from here but the price was right)) I really would like to install a Morse twin control that separates the shift feature from the throttle but am not satisfied with the technical data available to be sure I am selecting the right model(S, SR, SLT). I also need to understand what to do for a trim switch as the Morse controls I am considering do not have one incorporated. In cruising the CP site I see that several members have the type of control I am interested in. Megabyte if I am not mistaken you have installed a similar control in a duel station mode in the last year or so. Can anyone provide an answer to the model used and the trim switch solution? Installation tips would also be appreciated. In return I will document, with photos, the installation. Thanks NHR

 

[DaleH]

CONTROLS:

Morse Twin S:

Advantages:
* Lower cost. $217 new on-line
* Import copies are only $100 on-line, www.surplusunlimited.com
* Used ones are cheap on eBay, when you can find them.

Disadvantages:
* Need to buy optional part for shift detent
* Need to buy optional part for throttle/shift brake or tension
* The body and arms are chrome plated body and will pit in a saltwater environment and look TERRIBLE!
* The entire head needs to be removed OFF the mounting site for initial hookups and adjustments - what a complete pain in the arse!

Morse Twin SR:

Advantages:
* Detent and brakes for both levers are built in!
* Only $233 new compared to $217 for the Twin-S, makes this option a no brainer!
* Body 'cover' is stainless steel, will not pit.
* The SS cover removes OFF the housing so ALL hook-ups and detent and brake or friction adjustments can be made from above by simply removing the cover!
* Replacement SS arms are available

Disadvantages:
* Cost, but I bought 2 used ones in great shape for $80 delivered on eBay
* Last I knew, a marine salvage place in Maine had two of them, $80 each asking

Morse Twin SLT:

Advantages:
* All heavy duty stainless steel, body AND control arms, will not pit.

Disadvantages:
* Cost, $323 on-line new
* Never have seen one used ...

Not sure ...
* Don't know if the cover removes OFF the housing so ALL adjustments and hook-ups can be made from above

============================================

Replacement SS arms from Ongaro are available for ~$40 per pair. I swapped out the chrome-plated arms, 1 set after a year and on the other helm after 2 years ... this kept my initial purchase cost down.

Regardless of control you must add the start-in-neutral safety switch.

This site here had the best parts look-up and reference documentation for any site having Morse controls, http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=81246F

TRIM:

Many options, Teleflex sells a collar that goes around the Seastar helm and looks like a car turn signal lever, that's what I use! They also make rocker switches or you could use a single trim tab switch or simple up/down switch and install into the dash. Mine is a simpler arrangement than below, as the 'collar' on mine simply affixes around the existing Seastar helm, check eBay.

 

[nhr3]

Dale thank you for the reply. My understanding is the difference between the SR and SRT is the SRT was designed to address cable creep somehow. As this has never been a problem I will probably spring for the SR.

I understand the Mercury cables have to go and I need to install Teleflex cables. I seem to recall that there are several grades of cable. Anyone have any input?

With regard to the trim switch – I have duel rockers for the Bennett tabs and I had wanted to locate a single rocker to mount above the tab switches. So far I have not been able to locate a satisfactory switch. If you have a suggestion for a source it would be appreciated.

I have decided to install a Raymarine S1000 autopilot while I have everything apart. I had hoped to upgrade the chartplotter and install radar but that will probably have to wait until next year.

It gets hard to explain that all this is needed when I was only home for one week of the season this year. Right now we figure that single Rockfish we caught was worth about $200 an inch. It was very good eating and dreaming about it keeps me sane on the road. NHR

 

[gw204]

You should be able to add a trim switch using any momentary on - off - momentary on switch. I'm assuming SPDT (single pole, double throw).

One thing I was considering was a Morse throttle for my twin Yams and then using a Bennett Trim Tab switch for the engine tilt/trim.

BTW - Nothing wrong with that Merc 225 EFI. I'de give up my 225 OX66s for a set of those any day.

If you need any help, let me know. I'm right around the corner.

 

[gw204]

Check these out for your rocker switch:

http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.com/ ... 20Switches

Then check www.boatfix.com for availability. If you find that what you want isn't on the website, shoot them an email.

 

[DaleH]

I understand the Mercury cables have to go and I need to install Teleflex cables. I seem to recall that there are several grades of cable. Anyone have any input?

Yup, forgot thatpoint, sorry.

Buy Teleflex Xtreme cables, with Merc fittings separate. Best price on-line is that Surplus Unlimited site I mention above, as they're only a few dollars more than when I buy on my wholesale/business account, from my local marine wholesaler.

 

[nhr3]

Brian, thanks for the rocker switch sites. This looks like a good source. I have some test boxes I need to build for some of the aircraft folks I deal with and may have to work an extra switch into the order (and billing). The customers won’t mind because they end up abusing my refrigerator on a regular basis anyway.

I have noted you are a project guy also. I gave up the 35 foot sailboat project in my back yard (as viewed from Western Shores Blvd.) to learn how to fish and maintain a powerboat. I bought the Parker a year ago and have not regretted the choice. I keep the Parker and a smaller sailboat in slips at Flag Harbor and try to get out when ever I get home.

Dale, thanks for the advice on the cables. I will take some pictures and post as the projects come together. NHR

 

[Megabyte]

Looks like you have gotten lots of good advice on all of the parts, so I'll just offer some incentive to follow through on your project.

BTW - My motor trim switch is the round black object directly above the key/kill switch.

Good luck!

 

[nhr3]

Thanks Kevin, Follow through is assured in that I have removed the old controls and have no intention of fixing the problems that caused the removal. The pictures are as I remembered. Are those Teleflex SR controls? The pictures remind of warmer times. I ran mine onto the trailer in Solomon’s on New Years Day. It was good times but not warm times. Hope to launch again by 1 March. NHR

 

[gw204]

Brian, thanks for the rocker switch sites. This looks like a good source. I have some test boxes I need to build for some of the aircraft folks I deal with and may have to work an extra switch into the order (and billing). The customers won’t mind because they end up abusing my refrigerator on a regular basis anyway.

You must work for NAVAIR. I'm a contractor supporting them down at Webster Field.

I'm on the opposite side of Rt. 4. I live off of Ball Rd. and will probably have my boat at Stoney's this year.

 

[B-Faithful]

Go cableless and get DTS (digital throttle and shift controls) 8)

















Repower with an OptiMax or Verado

8) :lol:

 

[Megabyte]

Are those Teleflex SR controls?

No, they are Twin S controls with Teleflex X-treme cables.

I've had no damage due to weather or salt as I keep them waxed and the cockpit control station is covered. So far, so good.

 

[nhr3]

Brian, I run my own business doing contract and consulting work on executive jets. Worked for Gulfstream for 26 years and decided it was time to go at my own pace. I had a sail boat at Stoney’s ten years ago. It was ok just a long way up the river.

B-Faithful, when I re-powered I considered a digital engine but decided I did not want to double my investment. They are nice just pricy. I am pleased with the overhauled EFI and it was a direct replacement for the old 2.5 liter 200.

Kevin, weather would also not be an issue with mine as I have a single station. My kicker has a manual tiller in the cockpit and I am putting the autopilot in to handle the duties during trolling. I do think I will go with the SR just because of the adjustability. I am a jet mech. And we like to tinker. NHR