Fiberglass transom cracking - is this a do it yourself?

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JET O_Wey

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Fiberglass transom cracking - is this a do it yourself?

Searched all of Classic Parker fiberglass postings and did not see this similar issue – it is probably there if I know Dale. I have had this cracking transom since I acquired the 24 Parker CC DV 10 years ago (Love it – amazing hull.) I have touched up the little cracks every year with a tube of gel cote, smear it on out of the tube by finger. Every year after the winter its back. The cracks now are bigger, as pictured (1/16 gap.) If I had a tow vehicle I’d just bring it to a pro and be done with it but every boat move is costly.

Thanks all and Dale I did download the re-sizer software.

NOTE: Pics added
 

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Stuff some 5200 in the crack then cover over with what. Thanks for ideas.

jt
 
Somehow you need to permanently seal it, where you state they reappear after the Winter. It's possible some moisture gets in there that cracks as the moisture freezes, as we all now ice will take up more volume than the water itself at normal non-freezing temps.

I'd probably ensure it is dry, dry, dry, then fill with a waterproof epoxy. It might even be worthwhile grinding the cracks down to a 'V' shape, wetting out with thin epoxy, scarring up with rough metal paper or tool, then top-filling into the extreme top of the crack with gelcoat, so that the new gelcoat adheres to the widest part of the 'V' formed at the location.

Typically gelcoat won't adhere to epoxy, as dissimilar chemical forms, so if you can fill the crack 'below' the gelcoat, the adhere new GC to old GC, the repair patch may hold in place. If you just coat with 5200, you're gonna have an ugly scar there anyway, so a gelcoat repair would be much more cosmetically pleasing.

I've said here a zillion times that stress cracks are caused when the frp layup moves, but the much more brittle gelcoat doesn't - hence the crack.

A picture sure would help .. lookup and download VSO Image Resizer ... and make your photos 800x600.
 
I've been through this a few times on my '99 21DVCC.

I'd recommend opening up the cracks a bit into the "V" shape with a dremel as Dale recommends, making sure that the exposed area is completely dry. You'd probably want to remove as much as the 5200 as possible beforehand.

Next I would find some penetrating epoxy and slowly apply to the cracks, letting it really soak in, set up and then repeat. The goal of the penetrating epoxy is to seal off the area as best as possible, but not to completely fill the crack.

Last step would be to mix some regular epoxy and a little silica to fill in the cracks. The cabosil is used to thicken the epoxy into a bit of a paste and prevent all the epoxy from pooling at the lowest point. You should try and overfill the epoxy a bit as it will shrink a little bit as it sets up. You'll probably want to keep an eye on things as they start to set up to make sure that you aren't getting any overflow, etc.. make sure to tape off all the areas around the edges and create a 'gutter' to channel any excess away from the boat.

I'd recommend getting the Raka Epoxy sample kit, as it will have everything you need for $18..

http://store.raka.com/epoxysamplekit.aspx

If all the above seems like too much work - you could always pick up a small box/kit of Marine Tex at a local boat store and fill the gap that way.

-- Tom
 
Stand on the cavitation plate of your OB and bounce up and down. If you see that gap in the transom flexing badly, I would replace the transom. Otherwise fill with epoxy/resin. Grind and cap the gap off with glass reinforced resin.
 
To me that looks like delamination cause by a swollen and/or freezing core as Dale mentioned. Hard to tell from just looking at pics but I would prepare yourself for the worst case scenario.
 
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