ParkerSal":2qomer9w said:
Do you have a tip to "keep the curve" in the gunnel cap?
What I advise is you make a template out of thin plastic that you can put onto the radiused corner. Use thin plastic so you can file it to match the exact profile between washboards (top of gunnel), the radius, and then the vertical gunnel surface.
Machinists do use tools called a radius gauge but those are set for true 90-degree angles and you will probably have a custom angle, of which the degree doesn't matters, just make a good template from the same spot on the other side of the boat and adjust to fit fore & aft of the repair area.
How do I build it up so as to retain the same curve, or close?
Looks like you're not down too deep, I'd try straight gelcoat first. Might even need a 2nd coat before sanding in or even a 2nd application after blending in the first attempt.
Also, are there temperature restrictions for doing this repair?
Only restriction per se would be the number of drops aded to the hardener, as that is where temps come into play. Too low a temp and it may take a while to cure. If you could get a mid 60s day it should cure enough to sand in an hour or two.
Now when sanding ... patience my boy patience! You also never want to sand without a sanding backer block or you'll dish the area. Matching the radius will be tough 'cuz if you go too deep when sanding, you'll flatten the radius somewhat.
My advise would be to build up the area surrouding the wound with blue 3M tape and sand in long fore/aft motions, but never in the same spot, working the entire radius from top to bottom or bottom to top.
Layout the blue tape "next" to each other and not over each other so you can still use your plastic template as a guide. Also, you should be rinsing your wet/dry paper every 30-seconds ... and again, GO SLOW.
I've sent you some gelcoat articles, most of which I've posted here. Good luck!