Fuel cutoff valves and aux fuel tank connectors on 2510

[Porkchunker]

One of the things that bothered me about the the Parker was the fact that there were no fuel shutoff valves. When I added the valves, ahead of the fuel-water separators and filters, I also added aux tank connectors (with valves) so that in an emergency, I could use those standard 6 gal (or larger) plastic portable aux tanks. If I ever go offshore, I'll probably take two from the little wooden Porkchunker (see my signature) and put them on the Parker for safety.

Anyway, here are the pics of where I installed the cutoff valves and the aux connectors.

 

[Porkchunker]

Hmmmm...looking at those pics made me remember another thread here about whether or not the bottom of the plywood deck was sealed.

Mine is clearly sealed with a reddish color of resin. The cutout for the bilge access door shows a white sealant covering the raw edges of the plywood. I'm happy.

 

[Megabyte]

I'm impressed that you got those photographs!

 

[Porkchunker]

"...I've been a watchin you, aint it cool, I'm your buckaroo..."

I don't do boat work without the digital camera anymore...just like you.

 

[Megabyte]

I don't do boat work without the digital camera anymore...just like you.

:wink: :wink: :wink:

 

[TomS]

PC,

I'd like to do something similar with my boat, as I'm re-doing the fuel lines this spring.

Do those fuel shutoff valves have two female 3/8" NPT ports?

If so, I'm assuming you are using a 3/8" male NPT to 3/8" male NPT connector between the shutoff valve and the base of the fuel/water separator?

I can't seem to find a male-male 3/8" NPT connector in any of the online marine catalogs, so I'm wondering if I am missing something else?

I plan on using a three-way valve on the fuel tank side.. with one input going to the fuel tank and the other going to a section of fuel line with some sort of plug on the end.

The goal is to be able to have an easy way to siphon out fuel at the end of the season (I will need to remove the anti-siphon valve at the fuel tank) and also be able to run the engine off a small portable tank for de-carbing and (hopefully not) troubleshooting purposes.

Anything you would change if you were to do it again?

Thanks,

-- Tom

 

[Porkchunker]

Man, you are going to challenge my memory.

I think I have a spare valve somewhere in my boat kit. Will have to find it to verify. I believe both ends of the valves are 3/8" female pipe threads. I believe the nipples are OMC brand 3/8" pipe threads. If I remember correctly, I used a 3/8" x 1" brass pipe, threaded on both ends, to connect the valve to the fuel filter body, then threaded the OMC nipple into the other end of the valve.

The valves came from Home Depot. They are rated for water, gas, oil, kerosene, and other lubricants. If it was a thru-hull, I would have purchased marine grade bronze. But for the fuel lines, I went looking for something that could handle fuels.

Key to getting this right is to have valves between the tank and the fuel filter body, and a valve between the OMC connector and the fuel filter body. The valve to the OMC connector has to be closed, else the fuel pump on the motor will suck air through it. When I run off the OMC 6 gal portable tank, I close the valve to the main tank and open the valve to the OMC connector.

Dave

aka

 

[TomS]

Thanks Dave.. I'll check the local HD stores first.. hadn't thought of that.. duh.

-- Tom