FUel water separator

[flydoc]

Apparently this works but it looks like a milkshake there is so much crap on it.
Is it easy to replace this thing?

[/url][/img]

 

[DaleH]

Sure thing! You can buy a new one with the head unit made of stainless steel, along with a Racor fuel/water element, and see-thru bowl for < $75 from Surplus Unlimited, see here.

 

[flydoc]

Dale,

Thanks for the responses and the pictures.

Just wish I was a little more handy and not handicapped when it comes to repairs.

 

[Megabyte]

Old fuel/water separator...

New part before installation...

New fuel/water separator...

 

[flydoc]

WIll post pics if I ever get to use my boat this spring.
Silly Question..
How do I switch out the old and replace the new? It looks like is a couple of screws and two hose clamps. Do I need to clear the fuel line? :?:

 

[DaleH]

Do I need to clear the fuel line?

If you don't pump the primer bulb before the switch, say like switching it out before use, then the line 'could be' dry. Otherwise, have a container and rags handy to capture a little fuel. Put outlet end up or plug with 3/8" OD machine bolt shank.

 

[rplas48]

Flydoc, you may have to cut the fuel lines off the brass fittings. Try prying them off first but chances are they will split. You should have enough slack in the hose so cutting 3/4 of an inch or so from each hose should not be a problem. The hose should be pliable, If it is hard or there are signs of cracking replace it.

The brass fittings should be reusable. Make sure you use a sealent on the threads that is made for gas. Don't use teflon. Any auto parts store should have it.

Ray

 

[Megabyte]

 

[DaleH]

Megabyte, why is the thru hull corroded? I would expect you have it polished and Bristol?

Ahhhhhhh kemosahbee, what you see as 'less than bristol' is the actual aged patina that marine bronze uses to protect itself in the marine environment.

OK, to be serious now, but remember you asked:

* Bronze is an alloy (meaning a mixture of 2 or more metals) of ~85% copper with the rest being tin, although zinc or lead may also be found in trace amounts.

* Corrosion is an electro-chemical reaction between a metal and its environment that causes the metal to deteriorate.

* For bronze in the marine environment, it turns green as a by-product of exposure and should be 'OK' for the life of the boat. What you want to watch for is small spots of powdery green corrosion that may be evidence of “bronze disease”, which is a specific form of corrosion deterioration that is self-perpetuating.

My advice, if uniformly 'green' in patina, don't worry about it, otherwise clean it up well with standard brass/bronze cleaners (even ketchup works!) and then apply wax or Boeshield-T9 or other protectant.

 

[DaleH]

Oh yeah, forgot ... I cannot wait to post a picture of my thru-hull. My boat is older than Capt Kevins and my thru-hull still shows as bronze. Haha! Got 'yar there Kevin !

How do I do it? I am a HUGE proponent of ventilating the boat and I open ALL hatches at every opportunity, like on a warm day, with temps rising, and a light wind ... nothing like natural ventilation to air out a boat and keep her dry.

 

[Megabyte]

Ketchup? :shock:

Hmmmmmmmmmm........ 8)
That needs to be added to the Ketchup FAQ.
http://www.ketchup.wonderland.org/

 

[evinrudejim]

Best price on this: #18-776 Stainless bracket $47.81. Sierra 18-7866 10 MICRON filter $13.01
Two filters and SS bracket delivered: $82.78
[u]http://boatingbuddy.com[/u]

These filters are the equivalent- or better- to the Yamaha p/n. Interior of filter is EPOXY COATED. Rated at 90 gph.

 

[evinrudejim]

Oops; Sierra SS bracket correct # is 18-776

Pics attached. Note the SPIN ON E TEC 10 MICRON filter. I feel I am well covered , filter-wise.

 

[jjjansk]

Do as Dale suggested order the Racor from surplus unlimited for 75$. I have two on my Parker from them. You will like the fact you have a clear bowl on the btm, this allows you to see how much water you are moving if any, and what your fuel looks like. If you have an older boat having the clear bowl will allow you to tell if the 10%E in your fuel is dissolving the varnish in your tank. If so your fuel will be a brownish red color and this will give you a heads up that problems with clogged filters may be just round the corner.

 

[evinrudejim]

My opinion on Racor filters:Why spend the extra $$ for no measurable benefit? -now that SIERRA (which is TELEFLEX) makes a large hi-flow 10 micron filter for about half the price. Actually, for 25% of the cost of a Racor #32013 filter including the clear bowl!! The bowls BTW, do not last forever and if not well maintained, are a potential source of leakage (read fire) IMO. Also the Racor filter brackets are a weak deal (and with their crappy powder coat finish, corrode unbelievably...), compared to Sierra's burly stainless bracket.
My 2310 is a 2002 and has a 2007 250 E Tec. Zero issues with water or "varnish" from funky fuel. I trailer into Mexico 3-4x a year and routinely toss all filters from my boat and Ram Cummins after each trip. Cheap insurance- and probably why I have never had a filter-related failure nor had to change out a filter while in Mexico.

 

[evinrudejim]

I reread jjjansk's post re "moving water" and the need for clear bowl filters to detect same. MOVING WATER- WTF!!! If you are "moving water", you had better CHANGE GAS STATIONS- BECAUSE THEY are as likely to be introducing crud- and water, into your fuel system as condensation, ETOH fuel or any other cause!

 

[rplas48]

For what it's worth marinefilters.com has racors for 40% off list . The s3227 is about $16

Ray

 

[Outta Here]

I have always considered SIERRA the K-Mart "blue light special" of the offshore world. Most people I know of that use their stuff, only use it one time.