Going to sea trial and survey a 2120 SC tomorrow...

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Legal Bill

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Hello everyone. I may be a Parker owner by the middle of next week. I'll be meeting my surveyor tomorrow and together we will inspect and sea trial a 2005 2120 SC. The boat is equipped with a Yamaha F200. 276 hours on the entire rig. I have read a number of threads about porpoising, raising the engine, adding a permatrim, etc. I also know about the Yamaha exhaust corrosion issue and will have the lower end dropped and the exhaust scoped. I am a multiple boat owner and I already own a 30' Grady-White Bimini. This boat will be used primarily for inshore fishing around Cape Cod, but will go 25 miles off-shore from time to time.

My question, are there any other known problems I should check for in terms of wear or material failures? Are there any performance issues I should look for or try to produce to see if there are ride or performance characteristics I don't like?

I suppose this first post sounds a bit negative. I'm actually very excited about this boat. I have been looking for a good used one for quite a while. But my only experience with them was onboard my friends 2320. That is a different boat. I just want to make sure this one is a good boat and right for me.

Thanks in advance for your time and thoughts.

Bill
 
1801Steve":2hccdl40 said:
Bill, I can't answer your question. But where are you? Your profile doesn't say. And who is your surveyor? I'm a surveyor and just curious.

I’m in Falmouth. The boat elsewhere. Sorry to sound cagey. The deal is not quite yet done.
 
Bill, I have a 2006 with basically the same motor but it’s a F225. I say basically the same as it’s the same block etc and it weighs the same. It’s a heavy motor but you need at least the 200 IMO for this boat. You have mentioned most of the charistics with the boat and things that you should check so you are good to go IMO. Only thing I might add is to check the fuel fill hose and the fuel vent hose and the rest of the fuel lines for condition as they are due for age. While you are doing the inspection check the pie plates and rear bulge hatch for good seals and leaking. You don’t want water getting into the foam around the tank. I just replaced all of my pie plates and bilge hatch and will be doing the fuel fill/vent etc in the spring. You probably know this already but the 2120 and the 2320 are identical from the step ups on the walk around forward. It’s a tough boat and I’ve been happy with mine for the 4 or 5 years I’ve owned it. Feel free to ask me anything during this process. I’ve been through mine from front to back. Good luck with the survey.
 
shawnee83":2pgum09q said:
Bill, I have a 2006 with basically the same motor but it’s a F225. I say basically the same as it’s the same block etc and it weighs the same. It’s a heavy motor but you need at least the 200 IMO for this boat. You have mentioned most of the charities with the boat and things that you should check so you are good to go IMO. Only thing I might add is to check the fuel fill hose and the fuel vent hose and the rest of the fuel lines for condition as they are due for age. While you are doing the inspection check the pie plates and rear bulge hatch for good seals and leaking. You don’t want water getting into the foam around the tank. I just replaced all of my pie plates and bilge hatch and will be doing the fuel fill/vent etc in the spring. You probably know this already but the 2120 and the 2320 are identical from the step ups on the walk around forward. It’s a tough boat and I’ve been happy with mine for the 4 or 5 years I’ve owned it. Feel free to ask me anything during this process. I’ve been through mine from front to back. Good luck with the survey.

Thanks Shawn. Yes, the pie plates need new gaskets. The surveyor didn’t mention any problem with the fuel lines, but I’ll check those myself. I didn’t know the main bilge access hatch was a problem area. My two big concerns are the exhaust and the inability to hold planing speed below 20 MPH. Plus I noticed the low speed wandering. You mentioned these things in some of your posts. I think I’ll need a permatrim and the engine will need to be lifted one or two holes. It was amazing in turns. She digs right in.
 
You may want to just buy new pie plates as the bedding on mine was bad when I pulled hem up. They are only about $10 and it worth it just to put new ones in vs messing with the o rings. My rear hatch was warping some from stepping on it and age so I just replaced that too. It was only about $80. The bedding was shot on that as well. Fuel lines are just due on age but I listed as a suggestion and you can just do it when you get around to it. I raised my motor all the way up but have considered lowering it a hole but overall I’m happy. If yours is all the way down then maybe split the difference and put it in the middle and add the Permatrim. Do that before worrying about tabs and I think it will be good enough and call it done. The Permatrim will make a big difference and it should drop your plane speed to about 18, maybe a tad less? You will get lesss bow rise for sure when coming out of the hole with a Permatrim. First time in the pilot house with that bow rise and perception looking out the windscreen seemed very different to me, curious if you had the same experience? I love my 2120. I’ve had others and bigger but it’s just so versatile, especially when the weather is questionable. Also the coolest boat I’ve had when it’s hot. Love the shade in the heat and the warmth in the cold when you close it up. Did you buy it?
 
shawnee83":19tao7da said:
You may want to just buy new pie plates as the bedding on mine was bad when I pulled hem up. They are only about $10 and it worth it just to put new ones in vs messing with the o rings. My rear hatch was warping some from stepping on it and age so I just replaced that too. It was only about $80. The bedding was shot on that as well. Fuel lines are just due on age but I listed as a suggestion and you can just do it when you get around to it. I raised my motor all the way up but have considered lowering it a hole but overall I’m happy. If yours is all the way down then maybe split the difference and put it in the middle and add the Permatrim. Do that before worrying about tabs and I think it will be good enough and call it done. The Permatrim will make a big difference and it should drop your plane speed to about 18, maybe a tad less? You will get lesss bow rise for sure when coming out of the hole with a Permatrim. First time in the pilot house with that bow rise and perception looking out the windscreen seemed very different to me, curious if you had the same experience? I love my 2120. I’ve had others and bigger but it’s just so versatile, especially when the weather is questionable. Also the coolest boat I’ve had when it’s hot. Love the shade in the heat and the warmth in the cold when you close it up. Did you buy it?

The bow up experience:

So this is a pretty good story. The seller and the surveyor seemed to be on the same team. Both were telling me how fast the boat was. 40+ MPH WOT. We go out for the sea trial and the seller hits it to get it up on plane. There are three of us in the cabin. One of us looks like a 350 pounder. A fourth is in the cockpit with his head in the cabin to listen in. So with all that weight forward of the center line, the thing got up on plane pretty quick. He has us in a little area where you can do circles in a 1/2 mile area. He shows us how fast it will go and how well the trim tabs level the boat. Then he gives up the helm and says "take it."

I get behind the wheel and just let it fast idle. The owner says "you can go ahead and hit it."

I say "I will. I'm just seeing how well it tracks at idle first." Silence.

After I say "It seems to wander a little." I get a flurry of excuses.

"It's a windy day." "The bow is heavy." "The tide is running." "You have to learn to use the trim tabs."

Ha ha. What a laugh.Then I make a move for the throttle and the owner says, "just let us know when you are going to hit it to get up on plane. A good Captain always lets his crew know before he hits it."

"Don't worry" I answer. "I'm giving it gas very slowly." With that I go through a series of slow throttle increases. As the speed builds I tell them that I go out in the sounds where things get pretty rough and I want to see how it handles at all speeds since I often hit 3 foot chop and can't keep the boat on plane without knocking out my own teeth.

So I increase RPM from 800 to 1000, to 1500, to 2000, to 2500, to 3000, to 3500. I'm sure you guys know what is going on at this point. The bow keeps tilting up to the sky. At one point I have to stand to see over it and the surveyor says "lift your legs" and I sit back down and lift them and he slides a little stool under my feet. A stool that just happens to be sitting in the pilothouse and comes with the boat.

"I guess we know why this is here" I said. More silence, but my friend laughs.

So yes, I know that moment when the bow is pointing to the clouds. I stretched it out for a few minutes and had a few laughs over it.

I am still waiting for the seller to get back to me with some information before I buy. He is going to have their service department drop the lower leg and borescope the exhaust. He won't let my tech do it, claiming they own the boat and only their people are allowed to work on it.
 
That’s why I say it needs at least a 200 on it. Honestly, my bow rise isn’t that bad at all now with the Permatrim and tabs. I was more referring to the position that you ride in at the helm and it accentuates the bow rise some. They do seem stern heavy when you first ride in them. I try to keep the fuel tank around 1/2 or so depending on what I’m doing just to keep the weight down. Mine runs about 42 WOT with about 1/2 tank and flat water. 40 seems about right. If the engine trim is down then it shouldn’t point to the sky but she probably won’t pop up until about 4K if you are slow throttling it. All boats are different. I will say my friends Persuit 24 walk around planes much flatter.
 
Well, the engine has the exhaust corrosion. The seller won't lower the price. So it's take it or leave it.
 
Well, I bought it. We will close the deal next week. She will have the exhaust kit installed first thing, as well as a new impeller and a tune-up. I like starting with a clean base-line. Now only five months till April...
 
Congrats on the purchase! What Brent said on the water pump. Sometime the kit is ok but if wanting a clean slate be prepared to just replace it. Also, while you are at it replace the thermostats if you don’t know when they were done. I do the pump and thermostats every 200 hrs or every other season if you run a little over like 125 or even 150 a season just do every other season. Maybe have them clean out the VST filter also. I change the lower unit and motor oil every season or 100 hrs along with the plugs and the main fuel filter. If you get in this routine you will be good to go. By the way, this is all by the book per Yamaha. Good luck with her!
 
Brent":2xyh3e9u said:
Ok.great. have shop check oil pan, the drive shaft gasket in the pan. It can leak oil but there an easy fix. How hours on.the motor? I usually replace the entire water pump. You might pressure check lower unit


B2

260 hours.
 
shawnee83":1iauvmbj said:
Congrats on the purchase! What Brent said on the water pump. Sometime the kit is ok but if wanting a clean slate be prepared to just replace it. Also, while you are at it replace the thermostats if you don’t know when they were done. I do the pump and thermostats every 200 hrs or every other season if you run a little over like 125 or even 150 a season just do every other season. Maybe have them clean out the VST filter also. I change the lower unit and motor oil every season or 100 hrs along with the plugs and the main fuel filter. If you get in this routine you will be good to go. By the way, this is all by the book per Yamaha. Good luck with her!

Thanks. This will be my 5th V-6 four stroke Yamaha. Everything you and Brent said sounds spot on.
 
Good luck and we know you will get it tip top shape. I agree with Shawnee on replacing the pie plates and inspecting the deck around them. and replacing thermostats. At some point a real Permatrim might be worth the money. I would inspect all anodes and inspect them, same for LU - pressure check, new fluid and washers bc it is expensive part to replace.
 
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