How did you wire your under-gunnel cockpit lights?

[96TL]

For those of you who installed under-gunnel LED lights, how did you wire them up? I was thinking of splicing mine to the cockpit lights right above the small steps to climb up and around the pilot house. It would save me the trouble of installing another switch on the dash. I am installing LED tubes, 3 per side, and 2 in the rear. The only way I can think of doing it neatly is installing a small dual buss bar on each side to feed all the LEDs. Power consumption is low, so I don’t think I have to worry much about drawing too much power from the wires and/or switch. The only problem with this plan is the amount of wire I'll use. What do you guys think?

BTW, these are the tubes I ordered. They're 18" long, and have 25 wide angle LEDs (120*) @ 7,000MCD each. Each tube consumes 2.3 watts.

 

[DaleH]

I was thinking of splicing mine to the cockpit lights right above the small steps to climb up and around the pilot house.

Piece o' cake ... that's what I did. Even with those 8 tubes total, the added amp draw is only ~1.5 amps. For simplicity, I'd use same wire gauge as existing lights by the corner steps and 'if it also were me' ... I would NEVER use a buss bar in that position, but would daisy change (by cutting in-line) a new POS and NEG feed that runs from tube-to-tube up in each gunnel.

 

[96TL]

I was thinking the same thing. It’s a shame to waste all that wire by using a buss bar.

But how did you splice into each wire while still being able to seal them up properly? Should I just stick the 2 extra wires for the next light inside the butt connector? And so on for the next one? Sorry, it’s hard to explain.

 

[Megabyte]

I was thinking of splicing mine to the cockpit lights right above the small steps to climb up and around the pilot house.

Piece o' cake ... that's what I did.

Me too! Photos can be seen in my project post here:
http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=66

 

[DaleH]

Yes, some connections will now have 2 leads from one end and one from the other. Use the tightest fit butt connectors you can and this is where I slide up 2 pieces of adhesive-lined heatshrink up the 2-lead wires. One is the large pirce to cover the area at least 3x the length of the butt connector, and the other is a smaller HS piece that seals the end of the 2-lead large HS piece to the smalled wires.

You can also goop on some 3M Fast Cure 4200 or 5200 to seal up these butt connectors. They will NEVER come apart, even if the crimp wasn't the best (I use ratchet crimp tools), and they'll be further sealed. FYI - let the goop harden up a few hours before sealing the ad-HS though and use a heat source like a heat gun or simple hair dryer for best results.

Yes ... I'll admit my personally-preferred wiring methods add a bit of time to the overall install time ... but it was outlast the life of the boat for reliability. And knock on wood, I have only had one wiring issue while underway boating in my life, at least in boat's I've owned. And guess what ... it was a wire done by the previous owner that I didn't 'bother' to check and remedy - doh :shock: !

 

[96TL]

I just found out each tube has 2 wires with 2 leads each, one to power the tube, and another to daisy chain to the next. Should be easy as cake now. Thanks for the write-up Dale. You rock. 8)

I have an un-related question. I'm in the middle of replacing the plastic thru-hulls for the bilge pump discharges with chrome over bronze thru-hulls. I’m not sure which caulk I should use. I have 4200, 5200, and 101. I also have some Lifeseal (or Lifecaulk?). What do you guys prefer? I'm thinking 4200 or 101 so I can easily remove them if necessary.

Dom

 

[DaleH]

I wudda gone with all SS thru-hulls, but regardless, any of those goops will be fine. There is no wood core where they exit.

I'd use 4200 or Life-stuff goop without reservation, though I do prefer 5200 when under or very near the waterline.

 

[96TL]

Dale, I would’ve loved to use SS (much cheaper), but Megabyte warned me that the SS thru-hulls have a smaller diameter than the cheap plastic thru-hulls that Parker used. The chrome over bronze thru-hulls are a perfect fit.

Also, these are way above the water line. I’ll probably use 101 since I have a full tube. I don’t even remember what I bought it for. I did use 5200 for my high speed pick-up thru hull mounted under the hull. Not taking a risk with that one.

Thanks a million Dale!

Dom

 

[AhiNui]

[/quote]

Where did you find these LED strips? Perfect for this application!

 

[96TL]

You can buy them from www.acolyteled.com, but I got them on eBay for much less. $130.00 for 10 tubes. 8)

 

[BuddahB]

I went a different route. I found 12v 25 foot sections of rope lights on ebay. I used one on each side of my 25SE. Wired them right into where the stock lights were, eliminating them. Calculated the runs to draw no more than a 75 watt light bulb. Works fine. Creates a subtle light and they are flexible. I was able to snake them through the anchor locker and down through the rear below deck compartment where batteries and bilge pumps are so now I have a little light down there if needed. I'll try and get a picture to post next time I'm at the boat at night.