How do I go about putting a pulpit and windlass on a 2520?

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Ryan C

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Im considering buy a 2520 and it has no pulpit.

I definatly need a pulpit and windlass so I'm curious if there is somewhere that sells an aftermarket pulpit for the 2520. And is there a way to cut the bow rail and just add the rail over the new pulpit?

Im hoping someone has gone through this before. Any advice is appreciated.
 
I wouldnt bother with a pulpit unless you really feel like spending alot of money. You can get a nice big bow roller that will do the same job. Im sure you could get one from parker that would fit. If not that route dale added a wood one to the front of his boat.
 
I had a 2520 that I put a windlass on. I used a anchor roller instead of a pulpit. It's alot cheaper and easier to mount also. West Marine sells them.
Universal bow roller or a piviting bow roller works well.
 
When I first got my 03 2120 in march of last year i called my local parker dealer and asked for pricing on a few things. A pulpit was one of them. They quoted me $400. I said thankyou and i used the parker all summer and realized a pulpit with a windlass would be nice. I called them back thinking that would be my winter project.....now they want $750 for it!! I am looking at an alternative
 
I think a boat with a pulpit installed without a corresponding pulpit railing to match looks like Paula Cole when she lifts up her arms and hasn't shaved in months ... :shock: , ugghhhhhhh ... but that's me! ;)

I'd opine to go with the WhiteLine anchor roller too.

And I'm quite surprised that a pulpit would be anything < $600, I'd bet you got quoted the wrong price when you first asked.
 
If I was willing to spend the money for the factory kit how difficult is it to install.
 
This is how my project looked right before finishing . This was on a 1990
2520 SC. The plate under the windlass was a 1/4" aluminum. And I used a 1/4 plate of aluminum in the anchor locker under the windlass for added support.
 
Not sure how the bow of your boat looks but youd have to cut and reweld the rail to go out and around the pulpit. Probably have to move your nav light to 2 separate ones. Grind down the lip that runs around the outside of the top cap to get it to lay flush. Then I think it has 2 or 4 thru bolts that are secured through the anchor locker. So not that big of a deal if you are handy. Plus the gel coat probably wont match up.
 
Another route you could go is a teak pulpit from Butler Marine Systems. They specialize in Pulpits and transom platforms. I put one of their teak pulpits, rails, and roller systems on my last boat. Back in 1996 it cost $545 with a NY Boat Show Special. It is a complete do it yourself kit. The only thing I didn't like was cutting the bowrail and using their stainless steel connecting system. The rail lost a little strength but was still very strong. Just had to measure ten times and put down a few shots of Jack to calm my nerves before cutting the rail.

http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor_pulpits.shtml
 

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I just remembered one more thing. After I put the pulpit on my last boat, the marina charged me for an extra three feet. Don't know if you pay by the foot or if you have a standard fee for the slip. But you may want to check with your marina before installing a pulpit in case they slap you with an additional slip fee.
 
You might want to check out Good anchor rollers. The one I have on my '90 2310 can be taken off very easy if they want to charge for the extra length. Takes about 30 sec.
A lot (most) marinas will include the pulpit and outboard, gill bracket as the total lenght for the slip.
 
Thanks guys, incredible help.

Can anyone post pics of the hardware and how its mounted in the cabin?
 
Had this arrangement on my last boat. It was very convenient.
Bow.jpg
 
I intalled the factory kit on mine in 2000 my boat was a 1999 and kit back then was 600.00 it consists of the pulpit, the rail extension two cleats and seperate running lights you have to cut the bow rail with a tubing cutter and the extention will slide into it then it comes with two sleaves that slide over the joint and are attached with stainless rivets Its really a pretty nice set up and was'nt that bad to install the bolts thru the cleats so the majority of the holding along with the 5200
 

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