hull gouge

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Can you guys recommend any good glass guys on the south shore. I'm starting to think I might make a mess of this patch job. From what Ive read guys that are good at this can make it look like it was never there. I just bought the boat last year and the hull is in excellent shape. Ive sen some patch jobs that really stand out, I dont want one of those. Like to watch someone do this before I practice on my new parker.
Thanks
 
I happened to find a piece of a Parker boat laying around, and since I already had all my gelcoat repair stuff laying around as well, I shot a quick repair video that is in two parts.

Took the boat piece out and gouged it on a sharp bolt head to simulate the OPs pic but obviously on a smaller scale. His pic is such a close up shot, I don't think it is as bad as it looks.

But anyways, to help set a gelcoat newbie's mind at ease the entire repair took less than 10 minutes not counting the time to let it sit overnight.

The repair was actually faster than the time it's taking to upload the repair video. lol

Part 1: http://youtu.be/LBKdp3y66uU

Part 2: http://youtu.be/asxj9Gl0jwk
 
That was great!
(Almost makes me want to gouge the boat so I can repair it! :lol: )
 
Photoguy":2g2oyy0q said:
(Almost makes me want to gouge the boat so I can repair it! :lol: )
Click to expand...

Nooooo..........don't do that. However, I think Mikey still has a pulpit project that you can practice on. :mrgreen:

You all that are interested in this basic kind of stuff......you are welcome. It dawned on me yesterday that I do this kind of stuff all the time and take a pic of the finished project but have never taken a video of the process which makes it all seem easier IMO.
 
I won't...but should it happen I won't be afraid to try and repair it.
Thanks again.
 
Thanks Jim, those clips were really helpful, didn't think it was that straight forward and your right the close up makes the gouge look a lot worse then it is

Craig
 
grouperjim":22p5297g said:
I happened to find a piece of a Parker boat laying around, and since I already had all my gelcoat repair stuff laying around as well, I shot a quick repair video that is in two parts.

Took the boat piece out and gouged it on a sharp bolt head to simulate the OPs pic but obviously on a smaller scale. His pic is such a close up shot, I don't think it is as bad as it looks.

But anyways, to help set a gelcoat newbie's mind at ease the entire repair took less than 10 minutes not counting the time to let it sit overnight.

The repair was actually faster than the time it's taking to upload the repair video. lol

Part 1: http://youtu.be/LBKdp3y66uU

Part 2: http://youtu.be/asxj9Gl0jwk
Click to expand...


Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. I have two small gouges to repair and now I'm completely confident I can do it. This needs to be a sticky somewhere as EVERYONE will gouge their boat sometime.

Steve
 
I'll add to the group -- thanks very much for taking the time to pull this together, very helpful!

Thanks,

-- Tom
 
For you guys who might try this for the first time I want to leave you with a little more advice which may or may not be clear in the video. Depending on where you are on the hull, the factory gelcoat will probably be a little over 1/16 inch thick sometimes a little more on corners/chines.

Like I demonstrated in the vids the technique is to feather the edges of the gouge, fill in the void COMPLETELY with gelcoat so that when you sand with a sanding block you are sanding the gelcoat that is filling the void and not the adjacent undamaged gelcoat. You don't want to burn through the undamaged gelcoat.

If you listen carefully to the second video you can hear in the first couple of passes with the sandpaper how loud/rough it is. The sanding gets progressively quieter and then when the repair is level with the adjacent undamaged gelcoat it is very quiet and the sandpaper actually creates a suction to the surface because the repair gelcoat and undamaged gelcoat are level with each other. Subsequent passes with sandpaper will then be taking down both the repair and undamaged gelcoat at which point switch to a higher grit up to about 1000-1200. The Finesse It will easily remove those paper scratches and leave the surface polished.

In the video I did the repair in one pass to demonstrate the technique. In reality, after sanding the repair gelcoat level with the surrounding gelcoat you may find a low spot, crease or other imperfection. It is better to do an extra step by adding a little more gelcoat to these imperfections rather than to continue sanding keeping in mind you only have a little over a 1/16 thickness before you burn through to the glass.

Happy sanding.
 
For deep repairs I thicken the Parker Gel-Coat up into a paste with Cab-O-Sil TS 720. It works pretty well.
 
Harpoon":37bl1t7s said:
For deep repairs I thicken the Parker Gel-Coat up into a paste with Cab-O-Sil TS 720. It works pretty well.
Click to expand...

That Cab-o-sil is some neat stuff.

Depending on where the repair is and if exact color matching is a concern keep in mind the Cab-o-sil can lighten it up a little bit.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=en-8SbhdF_k

Tapplastics. com

Great videos that show exactly how the CP stated repairs to be done. Learned by trail and error, you have to cover the gel-coat so it dries, plastic or tape after it gets just a little tacky dry.
Easy to do and a nice jingle...tap, tap plastics ...
 
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