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HURRICANE DAMAGE

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rangerdog

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Well I finally got around to taking these pics of last season's damage to the Puddleduck. Looks like I need to do some work like Uncle Dale and Brother Porkchunker documented. I may ask for more advice when I actually get started. Three distinct areas have damage (all above the rubrail). These pictures show the area I'll call mildly severe and the other two are minor/cosmetic. What say you all? I've been kind of sweating this since it happened last summer.






 

Megabyte

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Although I have not done it myself (yet), I've seen so many fiberglass repairs over on the http://www.ClassicMako.com/ forums that I can safely say that should be an easy fix.

You may need to buy or rent a small hand grinder to get started, but the mechanics are pretty simple.

Grind the damaged area until the full extent is exposed, then glass in a repair patch.
What resin and glass to use isn't my forte, but I'm sure that the knowledgeable will chime in. ;)

Grind the repair smooth... fair with compound, sand, and gelcoat.

Sounds simple, doesn't it? :)
 

Porkchunker

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What Kevin said.

I'd use a West Marine epoxy thickened with colloidal silica to make a peanut butter consistency spread for filling in the area after you've ground out the loose material. The silica is white, while some of the other stuff is purple or dark and may show thorugh the gelcoat (if you don't get the gelcoat thick enough).
 

DaleH

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To me it appears that only the top gelcoat is damaged. If so and if not into the substrate, I'd grind out and fill 'less than flush' with Formula 27, a filler compatible with gelcoat. Then I'd top with gelcoat.

I don't have too much confidence, nor haven't had the best success, in applying gelcoat over epoxy-based resins, as you only get a mechanical bond by roughing up the surface. F27 is also polyester based, like gelcoat, so you get a chemical and mechanical bond.
 
A

Anonymous

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applying gel over epoxy....first the amine blush needs to be removed,then the surface should be sprayed with a seperation coat of dura tec...this is a two fold process...first the dura tec allows a true bond of the gel coat(polyester based),to the epoxy based resin...the dura tec also fills the tiny pin holes that will be present from the "kicking" process of the resin...

personally,i wouldn't use the formula 27 approach,due to the fact there's absolutley no structual integrity of that filler....i would grind the area out and rebuild it using mat and resin-it's a true and structual repair that way....
 

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