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TheOtherLine

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I need a book called "Wiring for Morons".

This is an extension of the 3rd battery project post and my attempt to try and figure out what in the he%l I have going on. Here’s the setup. I have 2 batteries currently.

Batt 2 is connected to the #2 position of the battery off 1-2, both switch. Batt 2 is the Start battery. There is nothing else connected to it, other than an orange and brown wire to somewhere. However, it connects to Batt #1 via red and black cables. Batt #1 is connected to the #1 position of the batt switch.

Batt #1 has 3 black cables. One goes to the batt switch the other 2 black (-) cables run forward and connect to a set of bus bars behind the helm. The cables are labeled “main” and “aux’. There are also two smaller red cables, labeled “main” and “aux’ that connect to the bus bars as well.

Where they originate, I have no idea. They are NOT connected to either battery. There are two red cables that connect to some 40A fuse block and then seem to go to the batt switch, but I can’t trace them back to the bus bars.

So, to one set of bus bars I have black and red “main”. To the other bus bar I have black and red ‘aux”.

When I remove the + from the “main” bus bar, let’s call it bus bar A, I lose power to all switches on the accessories panel from “baitwell” and above. This includes nav lights, port and stbd wipers, BILGE, cockpit lights and something else. The switches below “baitwell”, include the freshwater pump, spreader lights, trim tabs and some other accessories, and they still work.

If I remove the + from the “aux” bus bar, let’s call it bus bar B – I lose power to all switches on the accessories panel from “baitwell” switch and below. The switches above the “baitwell” switch, work.

So apparently, some of the accessory switches are on A and some are on B.

The only connections on bus bar A are the windlass, my Furuno FF and whatever accessories are controlled by A (fresh pump, trim tabs 12v receptacles,).

Everything else, VHF, GPS power, horn, XM weather module, GSD 22 sounder module, and everything else that runs on bus bar B (baitwell, bilge, nav lights, wipers etc.,) is connected to Bus bar B.

So now, I am totally confused as to what I should do. Should I rewire so that ALL accessory switches run off bus bar B and move ALL electronics to bus bar A?

Dale had suggested that I wire “critical” low amp stuff to one circuit and the non-critical or low amp stuff, to a different circuit. Do the bus bars constitute a “circuit”?

It would appear that both bus bars are hooked up to batt #1. Is that a correct assumption?

If so, what in the h%ll is batt #2 doing?

Any SIMPLE guidance would be appreciated....
 
If having a picture will help, Eric Denton who is an engineer at Parker was gratious enough to send me the wiring diagram for my 2520XL when I was having electrical issues.

It should be the same or similar from my 03 to your 06, but keep that in mind when you are using it.

In its current .pdf format it is small, but I took it to Kinkos and blew it up to poster size.

If you PM me with your address I will send you a copy of the big one.

Hope this will help
 

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I saw your post the other day about adding another battery and I wanted to reply as I had the electronics installer add a seperate house battery and my original batterys were isolated for just starting the engine.
Problem was I wasnt sure how he did it. :shock:
I found the diagram the other night he drew up and it makes sense once you see it. He added a house buss bar under the dash for all the electronics and kept the factory buss for the start battery. He also added an "on/Off" battery parallel switch in the bilge. And lastly, he installed a ACR in the bilge. This senses the charge of the house battery and if the charge drops below 12.8 volts, it opens and allows the engine to charge the house battery and if the charge elevates above 13.3 then it closes.
I'm really glad I spent the few bucks to do this.
Let me know if I can provide you with any more info.
 

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Otherline, you need to start from the beginning and understand each component. Your battery switch is first. It really helps if you start drawing things. Then you will see how the connections work.

Battery switch; 1, both, 2, and off. On the back of this switch you have a power post, along with a post for battery 1 and 2. Each battery is hooked up to it’s own post. When you turn the switch to Battery 1, it connects battery 1 to the power post and anything connected to that post will now have power. It you then turn it to both it connects both batteries in parallel to the power post. *(Never, turn the switch to off when the engine is running, it can blow your diodes in the regulator. Turn the switch past both and then to the next battery, when switching while running.) So to get power on your boat you need to connect to that post. That will be the post connected to your engine and the two red wires going to your helm, although those two wires do go through those two 40 amp breakers first. The reason there are two wires for your helm, (now get this it’s very important), is because it’s not safe to run that much current through one wire of that size. You also don’t want everything on the same circuit or you could lose everything with one problem. If you follow those two wires they go to the bus bars at the helm. Off of each bus bar you will find one large red wire going to the middle of the breaker/switch panel at your helm. Everything on the top half of the switch panel runs off the top wire and the bottom half runs off the bottom wire. That's how the power is supplied to the panel.

That should get you started. Remember if your not sure get help. Also, buss bars are like checking accounts. Just because you have checks/open terminals, doesn’t mean you have enough money/safe current, available. Don’t just start hooking wires up.

Good luck, and understanding your electrical system might save your behind one day.
 
Otherline, your welcome. If you need anything else shoot me a pm. I’ve gone through most of the wiring on my 2520. Actually most of it is done pretty well, I just prefer a dedicated house bank for my electronics.

One thing I would watch on your set-up is having your windless connected to the bus bar at the helm. I don’t know what kind of windless you have or how many amps it draws but I believe most recommend being wired straight to the battery. (Through a breaker of course.) I wouldn’t be surprised if it caused your electronics to reset when you turn it on.
 
TopShot is right about the windlass. Wire it directly to the cranking batteries. Mine runs through a 40A breaker and is isolated from by house batteries. I have two Optima 34Ms. I have them charging from the aux charging leg of one of my F150s, and have a 1-2-Both switch on them. Seems to work very well, so far.
Good Fishing!
 
my windlass is wired directly to Bat 2 with its own CB in the bilge and also at the helm. i like being able to kill all power to the helm (dead boat) when not in use. it is also nice to be able to kill the power from the helm to the windlass, especially when my wife is at the helm and i am forward messing with the windlass.
 
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