I have a Parker now....Can I play with you guys?

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warthog5

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Pensacola, Fl.
Today I got to see my Parker 2530 for the first time.

The New Mac Daddy

The Parker 2530 that my partner Ed & I got arrived today. Yep the 1st day with a new boat is one of the best. Antisapation, fearing the unknown and Ecstatic with the outcome that it is everything that it was said to be. Remember we never tested it or saw it in person ourselves. But I was attamidit. that THIS is the boat I’ve been wanting for a long time....Since 1999 when I bought my Mako and proceeded ti create a pilothouse Mako.

The one fear was..... Will my 2WD F-150 351 w/ 3:08 gears pull it out of the water? The trailer is 1500lbs and the boat is 7700lbs. The truck is rated at a Max of 6000lbs. Well she was Ford test tuff and rolled right up the ramp and never spun a wheel.

Now believe me....You know this baby is back there going down the road.


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The gal who delivered it from Maine. She was really Sweet.

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First float in Pensacola at "The Swamp House" There was a dang Bass tournament going on and we got right in the middle of it. 2 other ramps had construction going on. It worked out well.

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My son Brad and I. :)

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And finally safe at home. :)

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Great looking boat!
On towing: I am no expert but I know it's a good place to get in trouble. I suspect that manufacturers reduce the advertized towing capacity from what it really is but: The rule of thumb is a safe max tow load is about 15 to 20% less than your towing capacity. This allows, among other things, for wind resistance, which adds a good deal to the towing weight. It allows for power to pull up hills etc which, fortunately, you don't have much of in Fla.
Have you taken into consideration that your fuel is going to add about 6.5 pounds per gallon? Also, make sure your numbers are right. The weight of the engine may not be included in the weight of the boat hull.
According to your truck's stated towing capacity of 6,000lb, your maximum safe load should be around 5,000 lbs. You are a bit over to say the least.
The length of the wheelbase will have a direct effect on the vehicle's ability to control sway. The longer the better. I would say don't plan any long distance trips. Don't travel at speeds where you start to feel sway. and stay off slick ramps, mud etc. Even with the safest driving you are still putting a strain on your truck's brakes, transmission, suspension and differential. Without a 'tow package' which would include a heavy duty cooling system, your engine can be working overtime too. Very slow driving and very slow starts and stops will help.
My 2520, with two Yammys, a full tank with the trailer has a towing weight of over 7,000 lbs. My tow vehicle is rated at 8750 lbs towing capacity. It is a 2wd with a tow package and a hemi engine. I still can't gaurantee that I am going to get up a slick ramp and if I am on the interstate at over 63mph I start with the sway. That side action can get out of your control very quickly. The first thing to do if sway starts is to get your foot off the gas and the brakes. Hold steady on the steering with minimal adjustments until the sway subsides. Some of the sway I personally experience is possibly related to weight distribution on the trailer and the fact that I have a short wheelbase vehicle, shorter than say a long wheelbase pickup truck.
There is no such thing as a bad day on the water!

Capt. Hub
 
Thanks Hub. My truck '94 F-150 has the 351 in it. The trans is the E4OD. Basically a Overdrive C-6. It has the aux tranny cooler and has engine oil cooler too. Here's the rub. 3:08 open diff. I want a Ext Cab Econo Boost 4X4. Cha Ching! $$$$

Today I fooled with the fuel system. No matter where I put the switch the Yamaha digital fuel gauge would blink at me and be empty. OK.....I go ground the sending wire. gauge shows full .... Other tank same way. Pull the STB sender and check with Ohm meter. It's shorted out. Pull the Port sender and the tank is slap FULL. Ohm the sender out and it's Junk.

Ordered 2 new units......
 
Those fuel level senders in the top of each tank are probably dead in my boat too.
It is a reoccurring thread here in the Projects section.

Since the screws that hold the senders in are aluminum, I'm in no hurry to try and remove them!
Instead, I rely on my low-tech, but (so far) very reliable fuel computer.
When I fill-up, I set the fuel level to 120 gals (tank is a 127), fuel use (trip) to 0, and the low fuel alarm to 20 gals.

When running I set the gage to show me GPH being used, and if I want to know how much I've used or how much is left, I just cycle through the buttons.
Since installing the fuel computer, I've never run out. (knock on wood!) :)
 
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