Kodiak Brake Retrofit for EZ Loader

[Ranger Tim]

On my latest five hour tow from down south the trailer surge actuator went bone dry of fluid and lost everything I refilled within a few minutes. The thump-thump of the trailer gave an all to clear reminder that we had no trailer brakes the whole trip. With planning our stops were uneventful but I was sweating the unexpected panic brake on interstate 95. Well we made it home and I vowed to do something so we could get back on the water asap.

I ordered Kodiak stainless/cadmium disc brakes from Eastern via the phone and found the experience pleasant. The representative recommended a set of Speedi-Sleeves to help the rear hub seal make better contact. I ordered one pair of brakes for my front axle and will probably do the second axle when funds build up again (who knows when will that be?).

I took a few pic's of the side install and ran into a few things that puzzled me, along with getting a much clearer idea why these trailers are constantly a source of pain and angst. I am not describing the removal of the old drum assembly - you probably know your own drum hubs or can work your way through the disassembly on your own. First pic is an example of what mine looked like after five years of use. I had a flush kit installed and flushed with Salt-X after every use. Looks terrible but it's not really that bad.

 

[Ranger Tim]

Note: Remove the fender for easier access. Be sure to obtain Stainless bolts and locknuts to replace the zinc hardware that EZ Loader supplies. So much for "all stainless" hardware on the trailer!

It was time to take a steel brush to the axle and spindle assembly. EZ Loader welds their spindles on so there's no replacement short of a new axle. Before I removed the old spindle sleeve I steel-brushed the area close by. Then I sprayed all rusted areas with NAPA's rust preventative. NAPA is the only automotive store near me, but I am thankful 'cause the folks inside have been working there all their lives and know all, see all! This product is excellent. I use it for mower deck refurbs and such too.

Then I decided to remove the old spindle sleeve. It had to be heated with a torch ( I used map gas) and rotated loose with a large pair of channel locks. I wanted to be sure to check the metal under the sleeve for corrosion and treat it if necessary. I found rust starting to gain a foothold there so I was glad I pulled it.

I was going to replace the spindle sleeve with another variety recommended by the reps at Eastern called a Speedi-Sleeve. They said it would seal better than the factory sleeve. I had both on hand so I verified that they were correct. The trouble was the Speedi was not really wide enough of a surface to give the seal some room to fit. Installation would have to be perfect within a mm. The Speedi was also loose on the spindle and I didn't want to rely on only permatex to keep it in place, so I opted for a Manufacturer's replacement. I always keep a few sleeves in my repair kit on the truck.

Coat the sleeve area with the rust preventative but don't let it run onto the rest of the spindle. Let dry, then put some gasket sealer of some kind on the inside of the sleeve. Install the sleeve until firmly seated. I use a pvc pipe and tap gently. Keep putting extra coats of rust treatment on after the previous coat dries.

Install the mounting flange for the disc brake caliper. Use a non-copper anti seize on the bolts and torque according to the directions (40 ft-lbs). Don't have a torque wrench? GET ONE from Northern or somewhere cheap. Get the kind that click not the stupid pointer version. I used an anti seize called Nickel Pure that I found in a local hardware store. It is oriented toward marine applications. Great for water pump and motor work.

Pack the bearing and install in the rear of the disc hub and set the outside bearing aside. You should know how to seat a seal evenly flush with the rear surface by now. I use a seal/seat/race driver set from Northern. It's aluminum and cheap, but effective. I pack the bearings with a plastic rig from the same place. If you don't have one, pack them like my dad taught me, not like you see on some Hull Truth video: Take a blob of grease in your palm and push the bearing edge-first into it with the other hand until grease oozes out from between the race and the rollers. Keep adding grease until you have a huge mess and have saturated the entire bearing, forcing grease into every void. Don't just play patty-cake with it! Thanks Dad.

Grease the spindle sleeve lightly to help the seal slide on. Carefully maneuver the hub onto the spindle and slowly push the seal over the sleeve until the assy seats all the way to the rear, while supporting the outside. Insert the outside (smaller) bearing and seat it squarely using your fingers. Don't worry about putting too much grease into the hole. That will make it difficult to seat the bearing properly. Just get the outside bearing in place and follow with the washer and nut. Tighten the nut hand tight and rotate. Listen for problems. Tighten with pliers until there is enough tightness to slow the rotation of the hub, then back it off. Without moving the hub retighten FINGER tight, then add the castle washer/nut with the hole aligned to suit the cotter pin.

Add the bearing buddy or grease cap. IF using a grease cap pack the cavity and reinspect after the first trip or 100 miles. If using bearing buddies pump grease in until the spring moves out. Do not over fill. I found a pair of Tie-Down buddies that are all stainless for less than $30 on the Eastern Trailer Store site and ordered them with my brakes. They come with boots!

 

[Megabyte]

Pack the bearing and install in the rear of the disc hub and set the outside bearing aside. You should know how to seat a seal evenly flush with the rear surface by now. I use a seal/seat/race driver set from Northern. It's aluminum and cheap, but effective. I pack the bearings with a plastic rig from the same place. If you don't have one, pack them like my dad taught me, not like you see on some Hull Truth video: Take a blob of grease in your palm and push the bearing edge-first into it with the other hand until grease oozes out from between the race and the rollers. Keep adding grease until you have a huge mess and have saturated the entire bearing, forcing grease into every void. Don't just play patty-cake with it! Thanks Dad.

Excellent post!!

OT comment:
I wonder how many people today even know how to hand-pack a set of wheel bearings?

When I was a kid, our summer vacation was visiting my grandparents in Connecticut.
As part of his travel prep, my dad would remove and re-pack the front wheel bearings in the family 57 Chevy wagon every year.
That is how I learned... :wink:

Thanks dad!

 

[jeffnick]

I wonder how many people today even know how to hand-pack a set of wheel bearings?

 

[ceblizzard]

I installed a set of Kodiak cadmium coated disc brakes on both axles of my Load Rite trailer this spring. The original Tiedown disc brakes were still in fair shape, but I had some issues with a grease seal on the rear axle. I went with the oil bath hubs on my retrofit and I am very pleased with them. I routinely inspect my brakes before I load my boat. I also keep some WD40 in my pickup and spray down the torsion axle arms and hardware that may show some signs of oxidation. Easy to do with the boat off the trailer. Also with my roller trailer, I hardly wet my trailer when I load and unload my boat. Trailer still look like new.

Charlie
Eden, Md.

 

[Ranger Tim]

My Dad was an Air Force Flight line chief that got his start in 1941. He made me pack my bycycle bearings until they wouldn't accept any more grease from any direction. He drove me crazy - but I never had a dry bearing since.

A spindle sleeve is not always added. Sometimes manufacturers machine the surface into the spindle, sometimes not. EZ Loader has a sleeve on theirs. If you lose a wheel it will typically eat the sleeve. I enclose a pic of the two sleeves I talked about.

Also find a pic of the anti seize I use on the boat and trailer.

Had to run away from the post to set up 100 more tents for the mid week camp session. Whew! I'm back now...

After assembling the hub I moved to connecting the Brake Line Hose. I use a product called Gasoila, a sealant for hoses and pipes that is temperature and solvent/petroleum resistant. Coat the threads of the connector and tighten, being careful not to put too much torque on the wrench. After all, the female receiver is brass (on the Klondike caliper). Be sure to use a hose adapter between trailer and brake.

Bleed brakes according to instructions (which, BTW, are pretty good).

Don't forget to use a copper free anti-seize on the lugs when mounting the wheel. I stuck the old bearing buddies on because I had to run off without going in the house to retrieve the new Tie Downs I bought.

Anybody need a spare brake drum hub? I have a mint condition, never been used spare, with greased bearings for sale to the low bidder! I'll throw in some other spare parts too. Includes lug nuts.

 

[Ranger Tim]

I'm so glad I live in the age of information! I am indebted to those who have gone before, i.e. Megabyte, Porkchunker, Dale, et al. Now if we could just cure cancer...

 

[Porkchunker]

Tim,

Great post. You will love those Kodiak disks. BTW, did you either punch a hole in the master cylinder relief valve, or replace the master cylinder with one compatible with disk brakes? If not, you will have heat problems. :shock: :shock: :shock:

See my post on this same subject and what I did to punch a hole in the relief valve.

Dave

aka

 

[Ranger Tim]

My Attwood surge actuator was so worn I bought a new Dico disc model and it came with a solenoid pre-installed. After getting through with all that work I found a leak in one of the flexible hoses to the calipers. It had sustained some sort of impact and a pinhole was spraying fluid. I have been all over and no one has a replacement (18" with 3/8 male on each end). I will be ordering two plus a spare tomorrow, along with some spare Spindle sleeves.

I hate boat trailers with a passion. But those Kodiaks sure are nice looking brakes!

I need two tires also. I think one side of the trailer is grossly out of alignment after seeing two passenger side Marathons get worn on the outside edge. I may try to adjust the axle hangers on that side to compensate. Right now I'm just anxious to get it inspected so I can FISH!!!

 

[Ranger Tim]

Mal-adjusted? Please elaborate. I'm not sure how I would recognize that.

 

[Ranger Tim]

Hmmm... I'll be keeping an eye on that side for early signs of wear. Perhaps the relocation of the hanger might help, but I am glad to hear of your analysis - It helps me problem solve it.