T-Bro
Well-known member
Well after a season in the boat with the stock cooler seat, I decided I needed a better option for running longer distances. I had a welder in Miami build me a custom leaning post with a storage box, foot rest, and back rest for less than the cost of a Birdsall without these options. The post also used larger diameter tubing than the other products I saw out there.
During my visit in eary June, I removed the cooler seat and filled the resulting holes with Marine Tex. I also scraped off the silicone sealant that had been used to hold the cooler to the deck. I then used a few sessions of Barkeepers Friend to remove the mold that had grown under the seat.
Next, using the stringer schematic I got from Parker, I made sure that my new holes would not drill into the fuel tank. Because the post legs are 27 1/2" apart and the tank is only 17" wide, I knew I would be OK. I put the post in place and figure out where it was ideal (close enough to drive while seated, but far enough back to stand with the foot rest up and use the post for leaning into. I then marked the holes with a pencil and drilled them out with a drill bit around the size of the body of the #14 scres I used. I started out with the drill in reverse to etch the gelcoat and then drilled with no problems. I then used a countersink bit to slightly open up the top of each hole to prevent chipping or cracking. I then used masking tape to trace around the base of each mounting pad. After removing the post, I filled each screw hole with 5200 and used a nice amount to cover the area of the deck inside each taped perimeter.
I then put the post in place and used some paint thinner on a rag to wipe down the 5200 that squirted out of the sides of the plate and holes. Screwed in the screws and again wiped off the excess. Removing the tape left a nice clean deck and also a good fillet between the deck and post.
Let the 5200 cure overnight and then took the boat out the next day for some stripers at Wasque. Rock solid and much more comfortable. Only screw up (pun intended) for the install was that I stripped one of the screw heads during the dry fit of the mounting. I was able to drill out the screw and twist off the head. Removed the post and got ahold of the screw body with a pair of vise grips. Tragedy narrowly averted!
T-Bro
During my visit in eary June, I removed the cooler seat and filled the resulting holes with Marine Tex. I also scraped off the silicone sealant that had been used to hold the cooler to the deck. I then used a few sessions of Barkeepers Friend to remove the mold that had grown under the seat.
Next, using the stringer schematic I got from Parker, I made sure that my new holes would not drill into the fuel tank. Because the post legs are 27 1/2" apart and the tank is only 17" wide, I knew I would be OK. I put the post in place and figure out where it was ideal (close enough to drive while seated, but far enough back to stand with the foot rest up and use the post for leaning into. I then marked the holes with a pencil and drilled them out with a drill bit around the size of the body of the #14 scres I used. I started out with the drill in reverse to etch the gelcoat and then drilled with no problems. I then used a countersink bit to slightly open up the top of each hole to prevent chipping or cracking. I then used masking tape to trace around the base of each mounting pad. After removing the post, I filled each screw hole with 5200 and used a nice amount to cover the area of the deck inside each taped perimeter.
I then put the post in place and used some paint thinner on a rag to wipe down the 5200 that squirted out of the sides of the plate and holes. Screwed in the screws and again wiped off the excess. Removing the tape left a nice clean deck and also a good fillet between the deck and post.
Let the 5200 cure overnight and then took the boat out the next day for some stripers at Wasque. Rock solid and much more comfortable. Only screw up (pun intended) for the install was that I stripped one of the screw heads during the dry fit of the mounting. I was able to drill out the screw and twist off the head. Removed the post and got ahold of the screw body with a pair of vise grips. Tragedy narrowly averted!
T-Bro