Leans to Port??? Help!

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SeaLand

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New 2016 23SE owner here, heck I'm a new boater also so this may come as a simple question with a simple solution. Even as a newbie, this just doesn't seem correct. When I run the boat, the boat seems to lean to the left/port at plane. When standing still or at low speeds, the boat seems to be level. I am about 220lbs and normally run a very light load; 1/2 fuel (50g); little tackle, and usually just my 10yr son. When on plane, the boat leans port and normally I need to bump the starboard trim tab "down" two (2) notches to make it level. I have even tried to stand on the starboard side to bring it down only with my normal weight however it doesn't affect it, only tabbing down the tab will level things out. It has a Yamaha 200XB with a 17" prop (I think) which came from the factory with this set up. When I sea trialed the 23SE (not the one I purchased) I did not notice such a lean. Any expert advise here? Open to any suggestions! I know that tabbing down solves the issue but I am trying to figure out why this is happening in the first place.
 
Assuming that you are standing in the center while running and not sitting in a left seat at the helm?(do you have a leaning post?), it's perhaps a load of some type. This is my best theory. Live well full maybe doing it? Stuff in lockers that's heavy? Lastly, sea state or consistent winds can cause this. This is the less likely theory as I'm sure you have run a round trip which would change your direction. Again, chase the load theory, even things like batteries if you've added any. You said starboard tab and I know you are referring to the starboard side of the switch which is actually dropping your port tab down to push your port up and starboard down. Not trying to insult you or anything just you mentioned you were new to boating and making sure you uunderstood the opposite relationship here. Good luck!
 
Make sure that the Starboard tab is retracting up fully. Maybe it is dragging when it is supposed to be disengaged
 
Above the prop on the outboard is the rudder zinc, which can be adjusted left/right to compensate for prop torque. If it is adjusted too far one way or the other, it will cause your boat to pull in that direction, which might be the cause of the lean you are seeing.

-- Tom
 
Ludicrous40":1i8etve0 said:
Make sure that the Starboard tab is retracting up fully. Maybe it is dragging when it is supposed to be disengaged

That would be my guess.
Check to make sure that both tabs are actually working, then go from there.
 
Ludicrous40":2vti4ppw said:
Make sure that the Starboard tab is retracting up fully. Maybe it is dragging when it is supposed to be disengaged

I like this one also. Defiantly worth checking out. They use a templet to mount tabs and stuff at the factory. By taking a square with the measuring marks on it to measure how the tabs were installed to be sure that when fully retracted they have the same amount of negative trim would be a good idea.
Like in pic below.
 

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Trim the engine up! Again, not to be insulting, but I would not be surprised to see a 'new boater' trim all the way down for take off, and just leave it there. Take off, get on plane, and trim the engine up until the boat levels out, or you hear the prop start sucking air. The engine all the way down is not a comfortable, or fuel efficient ride.
As for tabs, they only work by adding drag, so before I put a tab down, I check to see if the other one will come up to give the same effect, since I don't have indicators to tell me where they are.
 
Thanks for the replies! To answer some questions...

a.) No, not insulting whatsoever. When I mentioned tabbing down on the right, I was referring to the actual Lenco switch on the console; I haven't given too much thought of it however it makes perfect sense that the "opposing" tab will draw the bow down (right switch affects the left tab whereas the left switch counters the right tab).

b.) The installation of the tabs at the factory makes sense too. I just "visually" inspected the tabs however it does not seem to be down. I don't have that measurement tool to see if it's square. I have assumed that they are level when I hear the tabs auto-retract when cutting off the engine. Again, I assume they will be retracted to a zero level. So the question remains, what degree do I look for? I know that the transom deadrise is 14 degrees however since the tabs are more latteral to the mid point, what degree should the tabs be?

c.) Tilting the engine is something I Youtube'ed the heck out of before and when I purchased the boat. I have played with the tilt and think I have the basics under my belt. I am very anal when it comes to the efficiency of the boat and played with it to get out the best "out of the hole" effect.

d.) The anode above the prop is an interesting point since again being anal, inspected those zinc anodes. The fin shaped anode above the prop did look a bit warn on one particular side. Maybe that small difference makes the boat lean. (On a side topic, I have noticed a rapid corrosion on the actual zincs attached to the tabs themselves. I am planning to replace them soon).

e.) Regarding the load in the locker, batteries, and such... As I mentioned, I have noticed this leaning effect on a very light load. Nothing too much in reagrd to weight in the locker, console, live well, or such. I don't think it's the load that is affecting the lean.

I know this is a small issue however I am trying to wrap my head around why this is happening in the first place. Originally, I thought that there was water somewhere trapped in the hull. Yes, I know that this is a doom and gloom thought but I wasn't taking anything out of the question. The "What If's" got to me, maybe I got a lemon...

Thanks again for the replies, I will look into the whole tab retract and fin anode more. So, any advice on how to change/adjust the fin anode? Is it a simple twist of the hand or something I need to break out the tool belt for?
 
Where do you live? Maybe I should ask where is the boat? How are the zincs corroded in a 2016 boat? It does not take much weight on one side to make the boat lean on plane. Are your batteries on both sides or on the side leaning?
 
The boat is dry docked at Ocean Isle Beach. I have attached photos of the anodes; tabs are very corroded however the ones on the engine seem fine. What are your thoughts? I was told that the marina as power stations which may casue this... BUT why wouldn't they affect the anodes on the engine (they show a little - small pits but nothing like the ones on the tabs). Do you think the wiring on the tabs could cause this but again wouldn't that affect the others?

The boat does not sit in the water for a long time. When it does stay in the water, I keep it at our house which is on a canal away from the marina.

I noticed there are indictator markings on the fin anodes above the prop. How does one adjust the fin to perhaps affect the lean of the boat? Thanks for the help!



windknotnc":3d8h9pxj said:
Where do you live? Maybe I should ask where is the boat? How are the zincs corroded in a 2016 boat? It does not take much weight on one side to make the boat lean on plane. Are your batteries on both sides or on the side leaning?
 

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The fin above the prop has no effect on lean, it is for tracking. If you were on plane in smooth water, took your hands off the wheel, and the boat consistently steers itself off track in one direction, then you need to adjust the tab. Standing behind the motor, if the boat steers to the right, turn the trailing end of the tab a notch to the right. If it steers left, move the trailing end to the left. The direction is counter intuitive, because some think of the tab as a rudder, and to change the boat's direction, you would move the rudder in the opposite direction. But, the outboard itself is the dominant rudder, and moving the tab in the same direction moves the outboard slightly in the opposite. Directly above the tab, there is a rubber cover concealing the bolt that allows you to adjust the tab.
These tabs are from the days when the great majority of boats had mechanical cable steering, and if your motor did not track perfectly straight, you had to constantly hold pressure on the steering wheel to hold course, which was tiring and annoying. With today's power steering, it is hardly noticeable. High performance boaters usually replace the steerable tab with a flat disc just for the sacrificial benefit
 
10-4, makes sense of the rudder effect. I haven't noticed it sheering to either side under way too much, when it does I chaulk it up to the current. BUT wouldn't a high/higher speed counteract any current?

This raises another question, "Prop Walk" is something I encountered when I was sea trialing boats of different brands. When the prop naturally turns, doesn't this affect the direction of the stern (especially at lower speeds)? I really noticed this in a new Grady, it was one small reason I decided against it but the prop walk was very pronounced to a point that it drove my wife crazy. Of course there were other reasons but this was a small issue.

Boy, this whole boat thing and all of its items have me really researching things.

PKS1801":11v6pvk2 said:
The fin above the prop has no effect on lean, it is for tracking. If you were on plane in smooth water, took your hands off the wheel, and the boat consistently steers itself off track in one direction, then you need to adjust the tab. Standing behind the motor, if the boat steers to the right, turn the trailing end of the tab a notch to the right. If it steers left, move the trailing end to the left. The direction is counter intuitive, because some think of the tab as a rudder, and to change the boat's direction, you would move the rudder in the opposite direction. But, the outboard itself is the dominant rudder, and moving the tab in the same direction moves the outboard slightly in the opposite. Directly above the tab, there is a rubber cover concealing the bolt that allows you to adjust the tab.
These tabs are from the days when the great majority of boats had mechanical cable steering, and if your motor did not track perfectly straight, you had to constantly hold pressure on the steering wheel to hold course, which was tiring and annoying. With today's power steering, it is hardly noticeable. High performance boaters usually replace the steerable tab with a flat disc just for the sacrificial benefit
 
The corrosion on the tabs tells me there is a boat or source near where you are docking that is putting off a charge. Those tab zincs are eaten up. If your engine is tilted up and not touching the water there will not be corroding of the zincs. You need to change those tab zincs soon. It doesn't take much to start corrosion on important metal parts of your boat. Your leaning is a weight distribution issue.
 
Sounds like engine torque to me! I have three outboard boats and they all ride level at low speeds and lean more and more to port when more power is applied. Right hand prop rotation torques the boat to port. Opposite with left hand prop rotation!
I'm a big guy, 245 pounds, and even when I'm alone in my boat as I increase my power, the boat increases its lean to port. I have a 15' Whaler and with full power, it really leans to port even though I sitting on the starboard side. Experiment with different settings and I'm pretty sure this is what is happening. To correct, just use your tabs!
 
Also, Sometimes boats will list a little because of tides and current. At least my old Trophy I just sold would do that.

That's one of the duties of the trim tabs, too correct list either from weight distribution or another reason. You said your a new boater so I thought I would throw that out there. Disregard if you already know all that.

I'll repeat what was said above...the zinc on the tab looks kind of on the bad side for a brand new boat.
 
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